Holy sh-. The silhouettes are mind blowing. Elegant, refined yet edgy. Either I'm still drunk from last night or this may be one of the best collections I've seen.
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Julius FW11
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Originally posted by kunk75 View Postam i small minded in seeing his collections as an ann/ro/taralis/doma salad?
It's arguably a very japanese take on those designers in the same way that Flower Travellin Band is a very japanese take on Black Sabbath, but still.
I also agree with Heirloom to a certain extent. I *like* it fine, as it resembles things i've worn/loved forever now..
But I'm just not completely psyched on it in general. It's more mature and less cartoonish-ly apocalyptic than previous collections, but I just can't get on board completely.
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This was awesome. Case closed. PM Sent. Game over.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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This is julius but there is definitely a discernible evolution between seasons. The mixture between draping and sharp tailoring is pulled off flawlessly. The leathers and accessories are clearly julius, but different. The wool/cotton coats remind me individual sentiments fw09/10 (or maybe i'm thinking ss 10? either way, this is another excellent collection from a designer who continues to have a solid aesthetic vision while maintaining gradual transformation.
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A very solid collection from Julius that displays further refinement and a touch more austerity. Good styling too - this is how you do shades of black. Found it interesting there were lots of longer jackets/coats with square bottoms and layering to achieve a 3 block silhouette.let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.
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One of the things I've liked Julius for in the past is the masculine/military edge/influence. I'm probably more conservative than the average SZer but I find the flowing/drapey thing to be way too explored already.
I like the idea of experimenting with different lines and levels of layers but let's face it: very few men can successfully pull of the man skirt. The apron, maybe. But not the full skirt.
I see the more masculine pieces giving way to the feminine influence and it just doesn't appeal to me personally. As an overall vision and display, it's a fine job but nothing we've not seen before from other designers. I have to agree with Kunk's salad theory. Much of the respect I have for designers comes from the vision as well as the execution. Execution here appears masterful at times; vision seems as dull as recent Raf lines.
And if I'm going for something that is masculine that flirts with feminine, I think Ann already has mastered that without having to bend to the lowest common denominator (in my opinion): The drape.
I'm just not buying this concept that you can wear a dress and as long as you're wearing a leather jacket and combat boots, you can get away with it as a guy or justify it as post-apocalyptic survival gear.
And in terms of drapery and elegance, I've seen Heirloom present it better than most of these outfits. The 'man in dress' isn't a new concept; it's just that most men can't pull it off.
Julius has definitely matured as a brand...but in doing so it lost some of the elements that I appreciated about the line. If the term, 'glunge' (glam/grunge) was ever a legitimate word, then I see it as shifting to 'glamge' where the glam part is beating out the grunge part. I know that was mostly applied to Rick from the mainstream fashion media but it seems pretty applicable here.
Juxtaposing elegant materials in flowing drapery with a leather choker and distressed boots also seems to have run its course. As a presentation, a step up. As a line that appeals to me, several steps back. Seeing some of these designers chase one another's tails makes me want to go back to wearing military surplus at times.
With Rick's latest line, I can see it and think, 'Amazing work but mostly not for me.' With this latest Julius line, I see Banana Republic meets Hot Topic meets the dining room tablecloth and that's something I have a hard time really respecting.Originally posted by mizzarSorry for being kind of a dick to you.
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Interesting post, beardown, but I see one problem here. How do you tell a designer who, we must assume, has a genuine interest in a certain look that the look has run its course? It's like telling Trent Reznor, you know buddy, no one listens to industrial music anymore, maybe move on to R&B?Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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First: Well-said Beardown..
Second: Faust, I don't think BD is asking anyone to abandon their interests or means of expression. He's just honestly calling to question whether the results are really that interesting at the end of the day. Of course it's subjective, you obviously are into the Julius collection, but that doesn't diminish his point. I.E. You could totally disagree taste-wise, but it doesn't contradict what he's saying at all.-That despite being well-executed, intense, dark, luxurious and having all the trappings of things held dear, it just doesn't come across as a sincere, personally held, independently-arrived-at vision. It's just too easy to see this as a pastiche of other designers.. (I mean, look 6 is a gotdamn Diesel fencing jacket with a curtain over the shoulder!)
Is the collection well done, yes. Beautiful, sure. Sincere?, maybe!? But it isn't without a doubt a clear, personally held vision. I see lots of great elements but few if any choices or decisions. That's all that's being called into question.
I'm not naive enough to say that designers I admire create in vacuum and are absolutely original with no references to the past, but to me this is really more the work of a fan, collecting elements that he observes in his contemporaries. I'd go so far as to guess this is more a product of a team.. It's just too well-researched, aimed at a demographic and by the numbers.
No offense!, just how I see it.
Third: Why are we still up posting stuff about Paris fashion week. It's 2:30am in NY...Wait, it's only 8:30pm in Paris.. Oops.
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Originally posted by Faust View PostInteresting post, beardown, but I see one problem here. How do you tell a designer who, we must assume, has a genuine interest in a certain look that the look has run its course? It's like telling Trent Reznor, you know buddy, no one listens to industrial music anymore, maybe move on to R&B?
If Trent Reznor kept putting out Pretty Hate Machine over and over and over, I'd suggest the same to him as an artist. But he had the talent and vision to uniquely explore varying approaches, even if he failed at times.
I loved Pretty Hate Machine because even though other bands/people were doing industrial music, Trent created something that was personal and unique...less cold and sampled and typical. That was the 'vision' to take something that existed and make it his own.
Later on, The Downward Spiral was a good album. Not a great album, but very solid and unique. Horikawa seems to be putting out The Downward Spiral over and over in a way even though other designers are also putting out their own versions of The Downward Spiral.
That's all. I see him as a very talented, very influential designer who comes across to me as having lost some spark, vision or direction. As a designer, I have great respect for him...I'm a big fan. It's just that this line seems uninspired to me and that's a little disappointing. Clearly a lot of people like the pieces...and again, I agree it's a great presentation to be sure.
But who wants to listen to the Downward Spiral when you can listen to Pretty Hate Machine?Originally posted by mizzarSorry for being kind of a dick to you.
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