Damir Doma Men's FW11 Paris

[michael_kard]

The footwear is very impressive...

[BECOMING-INTENSE]

Dd more or less stopped making sense to me in after fw 08.

Yes pretty much. To much refining, I think he lost his signature
along the way ...

[t-bone]

Keep coming back to this and it's not making any more sense yet. There are some looks and some pieces that I love, but I'm finding it's more of the traditionally silhouetted stuff, wheras in the past I've dug the stuff that was a little further "out."

The creeper soles on the boots are kind of killing it for me too.

I think the cries of commerciality might be a little much. Although I can see how a safe buy of the slim stuff could easily sell, there's a lot more here than that.

[t-bone]

at the same time, i can't help but appreciate that he refuses to get stuck in the pigeonhole that it was tempting to put him in ('nomads' etc..).

Yeah this too. I wonder what the reaction would/will be to the same pieces in a non mono-chromatic color palette? Turn a couple of these looks brown and you've got some sharper-edged versions of older looks.

[niji248]

I'm starting to accept Damir Doma's vision. It is certainly more unique in the sea of Rick/Ann derivatives (list is too long).

I read an interview of DD a while ago, where he said that he pays a lot of attention in the cut and fabrication of clothes. But, in my opinion, his cuts needs more refining. I understand that he wants to explore volume and all that, but his efforts are just awkward for some reason. The shapes are often too contrived and there is not that natural "flow" in the silhouettes. Maybe it's the fabrication as well, where things intended to be fluid turns out stiff and just awkward. When I tried on his clothes, something just doesn't feel right, just not the most comfortable. You'd end up feeling too self-conscious in the clothes, as you're constantly worrying if the drape is at the right place or if the neckline is skewed.

Another thing that I noticed is the shoulders on the tailored jackets. The sleevecap/armhole tends to be a bit wobbly, as if it was stretched out in the sewing process, and it looked more like a mistake rather than an intention (unless it was intended to look like a mistake?)

I did pre-order a pair of his pants for spring though. It looked fantastic, so I'm hoping the fit will be good...

[Dandyzoku]

I wouldn't describe this as a drastic change, but rather unoriginal. Somewhat clashes with KVA like everyone says, but apart from some of the knitwear, I'm not a huge fan.

[Shucks]

this collection is really contrary to his previous, in that it looks like many of the pieces are intended to offer some protection. where his previous collections were all about open access to the body through the clothes (holes, slits, mesh, etc)... even the current iteration of mesh (as a vest) looks like a piece of chainmail. other vests with cinched waist that flare out much like the silhouette of samurai armour pieces

Agree with this, although less strongly. More focus on structure now, but still interesting volumes.

Calling this 'unoriginal' just because KVA and Damir seem to at this moment both be at a point where their visions meet is absurd. If you look at any DD collection since day one there has been a consistency beyond that of many designers. For example, it obvious as I said, that that Miyake has been an influence on Damir. Although structure has replaced fluidity here, I would argue that the reason this collection irks some is that it lays bare what the core of DD is, by stripping away extraneous elements that are now becoming a bit hackneyed and indeed over-emphasized by other Sz brands anyway. As for KVA, he appears to be finding his voice finally, and I quite like it. Who'd have thunk it?

[lowrey]

suit line, old line, new line, boxers line...

[mrbeuys]

Well, Atelier will be all over this I should think.
Tbh, this is the first DD season in 2 years I like. Don't see myself wearing it but at least I can fathom others doing so.

Edit: watching the video now I can even see myself wearing this. This is really growing on me.

[Shucks]

show video: http://vimeo.com/19084790

[SHYE_POSER]

FROM | DAMIRDOMA.COM


Damir Doma MNS AW2011

Perspective allows an ephemeral edit of human understanding and opinion, just as distance defines focus; details fade in and out of immediate reality.

In the extremity of black and white, there is a certainty of endings. Only textures vanish into one another. Cloth cuts a tangible form, holding its own geometry against the body.

-

For Autumn Winter 2011 the Damir Doma man is dictated by these fundamental philosophies, in a monochrome garde-robe that crosses sartorial boundaries. Functional tendencies disrupt pure aesthetic, evoking the practical facets that denote uniform.

All silhouettes are elevated by the introduction of a stacked heel, elongating proportions to force a heightened sense of theatre. Further tension arrives through the edit of archetypal garments – a trench coat is amplified in oversized silk, bomber jackets fall short and fluid in the back, split hems descend over the hips on long, panelled shirting. Blazers and waistcoats are streamlined with a concealed lapel and hidden buttons, as felted coats flare in sweeping funnel necks. Outerwear is punctuated with topstitched strapping and tabbed pockets; trousers are treated with traditional flat pleating and at times a crotch dropped to the ankle.

The season’s tonal simplicity is polarized by a gamut of textures, realised across a wide scale from laser-etched horse leather to quilted and washed silks, waffle cotton and polished wool felt. Calfskin is utilised to great effect as a drop-shouldered bomber, a dramatic fluid trouser and knitted into loose pullovers. A fur-trimmed ‘creeper’ boot or derby shoe grounds each look upon a heavy platform, allowing bulky shapes to dominate the torso without loss of equilibrium. Knits and jerseys are squared off with dropped shoulders and wide necks, segmenting the male form in rigid, geometric layers.

Relishing contrasts, Damir Doma constructs a poetic garde-robe for the modern gentleman – navigating a stalwart path between fluidity and classical notions of tailoring.

[kbi]

I personally felt that last year's S/S and imo especially the A/W seasons were very strong and coherent in showing Damir's very own aesthetic. I don't know why he decided to go this way of introducing so many tailored pieces (maybe RAF, maybe money..) but I don't think that it is going to help his line. He's just fusing into the KVA, Dior, Rick, Ann line. What made him special was to me always his use of color. Color is what he got rid of here and I don't really understand why. Perhaps this show is an over-reaction to some kind of fear of non-acceptance of his line? (silly phrase but..) Was his aesthetic considered too happy for the "dark" customers? Is this really gonna make him more money? This show is just showing that he wants a cut off the Rick and Ann customers.. Not sure if it's the way to win them over.

However I like the footwear and the shirting. Interested to see the fabrics in person.

[kunk75]

i suppose just because a designer has a vision and clear aesthetic direction doesn't mean he has customers to support it. I have tried on dd stuff and had no idea if it fits or not. I have said it over and over but I just never could figure out who his customer is.

[kbi]

But isn't his vision kind of exactly that of an anti-fit? I mean there's no clear line to say "this fits" or doesn't. There's no rule to how it should fit.. so you can actually wear it anyhow. You can buy the pants in a 46 even if you're a 50 if you like the way it looks. Perhaps people just don't feel comfortable with that since it's something they're not used to/not understandable why one should do that.

Perhaps its impossible to have such a rural/nomadic approach of non-tailoring in an environment of "high-class" clothing and bourgeois-attitude how it is presented in Paris? Especially since you're expected to pay so much for it. The price remains the only justification..?

Rick at least had his ultra-luxurious fur-line and still he's constantly working on his tailoring. Damir just has a hint of cashmere in his cotton T's and some silk in the scarfs..

[moderninc2010]

This is definitely not what I expected from Damir Doma when I first saw the photos. But I still think this is a very nice collection. I am glad he retained the volume on most of the FW 2011/12 collection.

I own a few pieces from DD (Infinity coat included) already and will definitely buy more when this collection comes out later this year. Improvement on the fabric is a definite plus in my book.

I hope size 44 would fit like a size 44 for once with the more tailored cut!