Ann Demeulemeester Men's SS12 - Paris

[Magic1]

I think this is beautiful. It's different from the past seasons, but it isn't lacking any soul, which is the main criticism lofted when people say "this is isn't like the past seasons." She's experimented with some new shapes, but maintained her classic proportions and aesthetic. This doesn't seam to be a new character that she's developing, rather a mood not typically seen of the character she has already been working with.
I liked it a lot.

[MetroBulotDodo]

OK Faust -

Hope you're home SOON because I want to see what is coming for Blanche (though frequently, I have the originals!) I still have plenty of things to "fill in" my collection, of course.

Can't believe I didn't see you in Paris. What's up with that?!

Will you be back in Oct for womens? I think I have to go again BUT will be better prepared!

MBD

[Faust]

Sorry, no pix of Blanche, but it was f-ing amazing. Maybe the best one yet.

[lost53]

once I can work out why the legs are glowing yellow... then I can concentrate on the rest, is it due to the colour cast of the floor?

[Teazer]

i'm right there with you all. I think this is what I wear next summer.

[Icarium]

Yeah not a fan. The styling is what probably kills it for me in the end. It's just so busy in a manner that is not cohesive to me. It's busy to the point where I'm having problems evaluating the pieces individually, but singularly, in a vacuum-context, maybe they are amazing.

The brown/gold-browns she uses don't really work for me either because they don't interject enough spring/summer for me to really justify their inclusion.

Well, glad it's there for people who do love it :)

[david s]

nice write up from IHT, I think it captures the sentiment of the collection well. I love everything about the collection, with the exception of the footwear (meh).

Romance at Work
By SUZY MENKES
Published: June 27, 2011

No wonder that Patti Smith, the poet of punk, sitting front of house with braided hair, is the Belgian designer’s muse and supporter. The clothes needed to come out to a desert song, for there was a feeling of floating Arab gowns.
The models trod the sandy runway in open ankle boots or laced-up sandals. Pants looked as though they had been concocted from the gritty sand, while over them floated airy veils of fabric, worn casually like transparent tunics. By the end of the show, voile T-shirts were barely there, except for a line of decoration rounding off neck and arms.
The result was extraordinarily poetic, as though the men appeared through a mirage of seven veils.
“Another land — something oriental from my dreams. I was working on fragility,” said Ms. Demeulemeester, whose soft hats and black buttonhole flowers added to a beautiful collection that still had a sturdy reality.

[Pumpfish]

Take out the sommelier bolero jackets, and you have the strongest collection I've seen from Ann.

[christianef]

ackerman rolled sleeves and scarves are my biggest distraction, works in some looks not so much on other.

[christianef]

few more @

http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashionweek/menswear/ss12/article/10744/1/ann-demeulemeester-menswear-ss12

[Johnny]

a tad overstyled?

[Faust]

Those sandals would've been perfect if it was a full strap in front instead of a cock ring.

I thought I took more photos, hmmm. Anyway, here is my favorite coat.

[Faust]

This is the fabric I was talking about.

[jamesd]

I agree with Faust on getting frustrated with her recent cotton pieces -- for the last couple S/S seasons, I found a lot of the cotton jackets lacking in quality. But the materials here look gorgeous in the close-ups on Vogue. Faust, do you have thoughts on any other pieces you handled in person? The jackets with the different sleeve and body material/color look interesting.

[Faust]

Some of the lightweight knits were very nice - one was an imitation of a double-breasted coat, and there was also a sheer cardigan that weighed nothing. The contrasting sleeves pieces were very nice as well - the contrasts were a good balance of subtle and noticeable. The boots without the contrasting sole were great, too - can't get behind the contrasted sole though (and the cock-ring on the sandals - that makes me cringe).