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designers we miss who are still here

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  • messenoire
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2009
    • 1232

    designers we miss who are still here

    brands change over time. sometimes that is inevitable. be it the label is sold to a larger house that doesnt quite share the same vision, the designer leaves the label, or a designer decides to go in a different direction all together. here we will use this thread to provide a little history as to why we still talk about those designers that dont seem like they would necessarily be relevant to stylezeitgeist in their current collections but have had their fill of respectable works that may have been lost/forgotten over time. we look to the past and smile but only for a moment. i for one am very curious about a few but i'll leave that up to the more educated to share..
  • diorowen
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2010
    • 415

    #2
    Damir doma? Not sure if it changed direction or it was just interpreted differently. But I used to love his work, a lot. (2009-2010)
    still trapped in my juvenile state

    Comment

    • agentred
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2009
      • 143

      #3
      Hedi Slimane would be the elephant in the room here I'm guessing, followed thereafter by Raf Simons.

      Comment

      • casem
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2006
        • 2589

        #4
        Gotta agree about Damir Doma. No other designer has gone from amazing to bad to worse in such a major way. I was getting depressed the other day looking through the archive on his website. I really wonder what happened. One theory I have is his early garments were overly complex and intricate and thus too hard to produce and turn a profit. The construction on some of them is so interesting and unlike anything other designers were doing, now he just takes ugly fabric and cuts it into a box.

        The first two collections below are really inspiring, I wish I owned some of this.

        Spring 08


        A/W 09
        music

        Comment

        • morsto
          Senior Member
          • Nov 2008
          • 437

          #5
          ^ If you did, you would have stored it sealed away. While damirs first seasons were good design wise, the quality was absolute shit and things fell apart when you tried it on etc.

          As for the topic, I will throw in an obligatory Cloak, if it satisfies the requirements. Loved Cloak, I've not had any interest in things Plokhov did so far.
          I do not recognise the vessel,
          but the eyes seem so familiar

          Comment

          • fncyths
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2010
            • 769

            #6
            second on cloak

            I still have a few blazers that I cherish very much. I love plokhov sharp tailoring but some of the cuts seem too extreme and I fear they'll be dated soon, Geller is going more casual, which in some cases can be a little too unfinished for me... I love them both though. Would dig a little capsule collection from them, not sure if they're still cool...

            Also miss like crazy Helmut Lang for Men. I scour the second hand shops searching for gems, I've found a few.
            Originally posted by Shucks
            it's like cocaine, only heavier. and legal.
            Originally posted by interest1
            I don't live in the past. But I do have a vacation home there.

            Comment

            • the breaks
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2007
              • 1543

              #7
              fucking margiela
              Suede is too Gucci.

              Comment

              • agentred
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2009
                • 143

                #8
                Originally posted by the breaks View Post
                fucking margiela
                Well Margiela's been retired since ~2008, right? So I'm not sure if he's still here in the traditional sense.

                I'd also say Number (N)ine's Takahiro Miyashita since I'm not really digging the Soloist.

                Comment

                • LOVE
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 192

                  #9
                  Second on Lang, Simons, Margiela, n(n), VOTC-era Dior, and Cloak.

                  Adding Demeulemeester, at least the menswear cuz I think she still does the womens and I don't pay attention to it anyway. Poell, who apparently isn't producing as regularly/at all, and Westwood/McLaren, because I just saw that show at the MET and those tshirts+the stuff in the replica of Clothes for Heroes were so fucking sick.

                  Though as a caveat I think the amount of work each designer mentioned here has produced is appropriate and I wouldn't wish that, for example, CCP put out a collection twice a year like everyone else. Because, I think obviously, part of the appeal of the brands a lot of people around here like is the mystique and rarity.

                  Comment

                  • surver
                    Senior Member
                    • Oct 2007
                    • 638

                    #10
                    roberto menichetti; whatever happened to him?

                    Comment

                    • Sombre
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2009
                      • 1291

                      #11
                      Originally posted by surver View Post
                      roberto menichetti; whatever happened to him?
                      Come to think of it I haven't heard his name mentioned in years. A friend on another forum used to love his Prorsum (short though his time there was), but I haven't heard of any new projects he's done since then.

                      I also echo diorowen's sentiments on Damir Doma.
                      An artist is not paid for his labor, but for his vision. - James Whistler

                      Originally posted by BBSCCP
                      I order 1 in every size, please, for every occasion

                      Comment

                      • blacktulip
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2011
                        • 168

                        #12
                        Great thread title! =)
                        "Silicon is a gas"

                        Comment

                        • Dyu
                          Junior Member
                          • Dec 2010
                          • 2

                          #13
                          Originally posted by surver View Post
                          roberto menichetti; whatever happened to him?

                          Comment

                          • Sombre
                            Senior Member
                            • Jan 2009
                            • 1291

                            #14
                            Does anyone know what happened to Michel Berandi? I think his line folded a couple of years ago, but what has been up to since?
                            An artist is not paid for his labor, but for his vision. - James Whistler

                            Originally posted by BBSCCP
                            I order 1 in every size, please, for every occasion

                            Comment

                            • tenorish
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2011
                              • 97

                              #15
                              Originally posted by diorowen View Post
                              Damir doma? Not sure if it changed direction or it was just interpreted differently. But I used to love his work, a lot. (2009-2010)
                              Seems like somebody picked up on this growing nostalgic sentiment towards Damir

                              Comment

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