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DEEPTI (Deepti Barth)

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  • Simone O.
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2018
    • 8

    Originally posted by agwall View Post
    DEEPTI °017-018 "PETRIFACTION"

    photos from Vertice London


    Di anyone see those gloves in person? Is it little pieces of stone coated over the leather?
    www.ah-okay.com +++ We make contemporary gloves and un-essential accessories.

    Comment

    • darkart
      Senior Member
      • Jun 2011
      • 153

      Originally posted by Simone O. View Post
      Di anyone see those gloves in person? Is it little pieces of stone coated over the leather?
      Here you go




      Those stone drop off easily and these gloves are difficult to put on.

      Comment

      • Gerber
        Junior Member
        • Nov 2014
        • 25

        Kinda disappointed that she still only reinterpretes Carols pieces and ideas. Lets coat shoes and gloves with rubber and ADD stones. Suits, pants .. look almost identical in cut. It all looks like the same but with some luxury and shine added. Still, the base is too heavily influenced from her previous work with Carol. I sometimes feel like she took over the patterns 1:1 and just changed minimal details such as the neck/cuff closing.

        Comment

        • Simone O.
          Junior Member
          • Jan 2018
          • 8

          suspected as much (re: "stones drop off easily"). Why are they difficult to put on?

          I find the concept intriguing. Not my cup of tea, exactly, but interesting nevertheless...
          www.ah-okay.com +++ We make contemporary gloves and un-essential accessories.

          Comment

          • href:90a7
            Junior Member
            • May 2017
            • 17

            Originally posted by Gerber View Post
            Kinda disappointed that she still only reinterpretes Carols pieces and ideas. Lets coat shoes and gloves with rubber and ADD stones. Suits, pants .. look almost identical in cut. It all looks like the same but with some luxury and shine added. Still, the base is too heavily influenced from her previous work with Carol. I sometimes feel like she took over the patterns 1:1 and just changed minimal details such as the neck/cuff closing.
            I agree to an extent but I also think she is just getting started. Given that the most recent collection is her 4th collection, and that she worked at CCP for so long, it will take a little time to move away from the style she was so accustomed to. Look at Elena Dawson for example. She started the clothing line at PH and has gradually moved into her own realm over time. From my experience, philosophy and habit are tough things to drastically change.
            Originally posted by Alesha
            Does CCP make pizza?

            Comment

            • ashamed
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2011
              • 103

              Originally posted by href:90a7 View Post
              I agree to an extent but I also think she is just getting started. Given that the most recent collection is her 4th collection, and that she worked at CCP for so long, it will take a little time to move away from the style she was so accustomed to. Look at Elena Dawson for example. She started the clothing line at PH and has gradually moved into her own realm over time. From my experience, philosophy and habit are tough things to drastically change.
              this has to be the only actually useful and thoughtful post on this website in 4 years. (not counting Geoffreys B Small posts)

              i suspect also that Deepti Barth had more to do with the direction carol went in than people give her credit for and that she has some ownership over the styles they created for his namesake, as you said, like with Elena Dawson/Paul Harnden

              Comment

              • julian_doe
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2013
                • 339

                Originally posted by ashamed View Post
                this has to be the only actually useful and thoughtful post on this website in 4 years. (not counting Geoffreys B Small posts)

                i suspect also that Deepti Barth had more to do with the direction carol went in than people give her credit for and that she has some ownership over the styles they created for his namesake, as you said, like with Elena Dawson/Paul Harnden
                Which "styles" that she "has some ownership over" are you referring to?

                And after 4 YEARS that she has been producing collections, is it still okay to say that it is "too soon" for her to find her own voice?

                As I have mentioned in another thread, the elements of Deepti clothes which are admirable (such as the extended pocket flaps, rigidity of fabrics) are all elements of CCP garments. Can gluing stones to a lapel or the soles of a folded sneaker (which at this time is way overdone) be excused as "revolutionary design"?

                I think the only pieces which I can consider anything close to interesting by Deepti are those with vulcanized tailoring. Everything else...does not inspire any excitement in me.

                Comment

                • Faust
                  kitsch killer
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 37852

                  Originally posted by ashamed View Post
                  this has to be the only actually useful and thoughtful post on this website in 4 years. (not counting Geoffreys B Small posts)

                  i suspect also that Deepti Barth had more to do with the direction carol went in than people give her credit for and that she has some ownership over the styles they created for his namesake, as you said, like with Elena Dawson/Paul Harnden
                  The only one, huh. Guess you don't read much.

                  Quite a few people who know past the CCP mythology know that Deepti has been responsible for a lot of Carol's creative direction. I have no problem with her going the way she's going.
                  Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                  StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                  Comment

                  • ashamed
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2011
                    • 103

                    Originally posted by julian_doe View Post
                    Which "styles" that she "has some ownership over" are you referring to?
                    Originally posted by Faust View Post
                    Quite a few people who know past the CCP mythology know that Deepti has been responsible for a lot of Carol's creative direction. I have no problem with her going the way she's going.


                    Originally posted by julian_doe View Post
                    And after 4 YEARS that she has been producing collections, is it still okay to say that it is "too soon" for her to find her own voice?
                    How long do you imagine it took carol to get to the particular work youre referring to. have you seen any images of the type of stuff he started out doing? its not that unknown and im sure the pink bellybutton polo shirt has been posted in the Carol thread atleast once (EDIT: sorry the top im referring to was red styled with pink pants )

                    Originally posted by julian_doe View Post
                    As I have mentioned in another thread, the elements of Deepti clothes which are admirable (such as the extended pocket flaps, rigidity of fabrics) are all elements of CCP garments. Can gluing stones to a lapel or the soles of a folded sneaker (which at this time is way overdone) be excused as "revolutionary design"?
                    My point here is that most of the things you are focusing on as "CCP garments", Deepti is also responsible for. and you have been admiring her work for a long time if so. what this means is that the thing y9ou are having a hard time with is context. this next example is an easy revisionist trick (and effectively impossible to prove) but if any of the stuff Deepti has released under her name had a carol tag on it there would be no question that people would have a different reaction. youre criticism here is "these DEEPTI clothes are too CAROL-LIKE" which leads me to think that you like them but you dont like the tag?

                    Originally posted by julian_doe View Post
                    I think the only pieces which I can consider anything close to interesting by Deepti are those with vulcanized tailoring. Everything else...does not inspire any excitement in me.
                    Im sorry
                    Last edited by ashamed; 01-04-2018, 05:21 PM.

                    Comment

                    • julian_doe
                      Senior Member
                      • Mar 2013
                      • 339

                      Originally posted by ashamed View Post
                      How long do you imagine it took carol to get to the particular work youre referring to. have you seen any images of the type of stuff he started out doing? its not that unknown and im sure the pink bellybutton polo shirt has been posted in the Carol thread atleast once (EDIT: sorry the top im referring to was red styled with pink pants )



                      My point here is that most of the things you are focusing on as "CCP garments", Deepti is also responsible for. and you have been admiring her work for a long time if so. what this means is that the thing y9ou are having a hard time with is context. this next example is an easy revisionist trick (and effectively impossible to prove) but if any of the stuff Deepti has released under her name had a carol tag on it there would be no question that people would have a different reaction. youre criticism here is "these DEEPTI clothes are too CAROL-LIKE" which leads me to think that you like them but you dont like the tag?

                      Im sorry
                      No, I think you are misunderstanding.

                      I am saying that most of the aspects of Deepti's clothes which people praise are staple characteristics of Carol christian Poell's work. The "new" things that she has created are for the most part pretty boring and/or lacking ingenuity. For example, compare Dead-End tailoring to Deepti's "crash seam" work. Dead-End garments are formidably constructed, and (for those of us who appreciate complexity) are a true pattern making feat. Crash seam garments, in my humble opinion, just look weak.

                      I have also said before that Carol's best seasons took place while Deepti was working for him. But I think that is shortsighted to say that just because of that, Deepti deserves all of the credit. Think about "Mainstream-Downstream", which took place 2004 (I think Deepti didn't join until 2005), where both tailoring and knits were incredibly constructed. As well, despite the FUCKING TERRIBLE belly button tops, there have been garments which Carol has been pioneering since the late 90's. For example, long tailored jackets, military tape, and pointed boots have all been garments which he has truly mastered.

                      Shattered glass lapels? Please...

                      Comment

                      • Gerber
                        Junior Member
                        • Nov 2014
                        • 25

                        If you look at Carols old work, you will find all the key elements that made 2008 and 2009 so incredible have been there already. Even the beloved fencing was made around 2000. Maybe Deepti helped to refine them - yes. But still, she had plenty of time to bring something bigger to the table then just taking the work she did at CCP to her own brand.

                        And the crash seam, in my opinion, was Deeptis approach to creating an interesting seam such as Carols Invisiseam. Obviously she didnt want to use the same machines, so she had to come up with a technique we already saw at other brands such as terrible Dior KVA in SS2009. (Used as patterndetail in blazers, shirts etc. Deepti added the zigzag however - didnt really help though)

                        Comment

                        • ashamed
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2011
                          • 103

                          it seems like i need to clarify, i never said carol was not a capable designer or that Deepti is owed 100% of the praise for his namesake but i think that the criticism she gets for continuing the thread she helped sew is based on something outside of the design of the actual clothes. when i see what she has done outside the Carol label i see that she understood what he wanted to do.

                          also you can take "good" examples from one side and "bad" examples from the other (obviously these things are based on your opinions and therefore are biased in relation to the argument youre trying to make) in order to prove your point. here watch; Carol made those geta derbies, carol made pants with button and buttonholes being set at different intervals to create a bunching of fabric around the crotch area, carol made turtlenecks with taped seams that would stretch the tape to get your head through.

                          meanwhile deepti has coated yarn in fucking silver which before i ever handled the fabric imagined it would be a complete novelty but the result was incredible, her take of cheap military wire buttons had me smiling, and more recently the cape/coat with seam articulation around the elbow which makes the fabric look like it could mold to any form or shape or that it was applied onto the body directly are briliant.

                          these are both fantastic designers, she was instrumental in what we consider "CCP" today and the criticism she gets for not having her own voice is misguided.
                          Last edited by ashamed; 01-04-2018, 08:08 PM.

                          Comment

                          • zamb
                            Senior Member
                            • Nov 2006
                            • 5834

                            Originally posted by ashamed View Post
                            it seems like i need to clarify, i never said carol was not a capable designer or that Deepti is owed 100% of the praise for his namesake but i think that the criticism she gets for continuing the thread she helped sew is based on something outside of the design of the actual clothes. when i see what she has done outside the Carol label i see that she understood what he wanted to do.

                            also you can take "good" examples from one side and "bad" examples from the other (obviously these things are based on your opinions and therefore are biased in relation to the argument youre trying to make) in order to prove your point. here watch; Carol made those geta derbies, carol made pants with button and buttonholes being set at different intervals to create a bunching of fabric around the crotch area, carol made turtlenecks with taped seams that would stretch the tape to get your head through.

                            meanwhile deepti has coated yarn in fucking silver which before i ever handled the fabric imagined it would be a complete novelty but the result was incredible, her take of cheap military wire buttons had me smiling, and more recently the cape/coat with seam articulation around the elbow which makes the fabric look like it could mold to any form or shape or that it was applied onto the body directly are briliant.

                            these are both fantastic designers, she was instrumental in what we consider "CCP" today and the criticism she gets for not having her own voice is misguided.

                            how difficult it is for you to understand?
                            and now you are accusing people of the same issues you are tripping over

                            No one is saying Deepti's work is not great, you are missing the point.
                            its very simple, when a designer works for another, it is generally expected that in branching out, the newer designer's work will have similarities to the style and aesthetic choices of his/ her former employer........
                            As time passes the newer designer is expected to find his own voice and establishes his/ her own identity.

                            A lot of the tailored stuff from Deepti basically has the same cut a Carols tailored work. nothing wrong with that. the issue is, people are saying the conceptual pieces that would give her her own voice is not as strong or as ground breaking to take her out of CCP's shadow

                            this will be a hard thing because like him or hate him Carol (through whatever means) has set a very high standard and established a body of work that was and still is exceptional to this day, more than 7 years after his last collection

                            The fact of the matter is that some designers are hard to top........their shadows loom too large to get away from
                            A good example was McQueen, Sarah Burton is good, she was his assistant for many Years and understood him more than most, but she doesn't have Lee's mind
                            “You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
                            .................................................. .......................


                            Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock

                            Comment

                            • julian_doe
                              Senior Member
                              • Mar 2013
                              • 339

                              Originally posted by zamb View Post
                              how difficult it is for you to understand?
                              and now you are accusing people of the same issues you are tripping over

                              No one is saying Deepti's work is not great, you are missing the point.
                              its very simple, when a designer works for another, it is generally expected that in branching out, the newer designer's work will have similarities to the style and aesthetic choices of his/ her former employer........
                              As time passes the newer designer is expected to find his own voice and establishes his/ her own identity.

                              A lot of the tailored stuff from Deepti basically has the same cut a Carols tailored work. nothing wrong with that. the issue is, people are saying the conceptual pieces that would give her her own voice is not as strong or as ground breaking to take her out of CCP's shadow

                              this will be a hard thing because like him or hate him Carol (through whatever means) has set a very high standard and established a body of work that was and still is exceptional to this day, more than 7 years after his last collection

                              The fact of the matter is that some designers are hard to top........their shadows loom too large to get away from
                              A good example was McQueen, Sarah Burton is good, she was his assistant for many Years and understood him more than most, but she doesn't have Lee's mind
                              I was totally speed posting at the office yesterday, thus the gramatical errors and redundancy.

                              This post eloquently and accurately conveys exactly what I was trying to say. Thanks, Zam.

                              Comment

                              • Faust
                                kitsch killer
                                • Sep 2006
                                • 37852

                                Also, ashamed, you are still an asshole for saying that this was the only good post on this forum in the last four years.
                                Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                                StyleZeitgeist Magazine

                                Comment

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