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Thread: Haider Ackermann leaves Berluti

  1. #1

    Default Haider Ackermann leaves Berluti

    Haider has left Berluti after only three seasons, rumour is KVA will take his place.
    As a huge Haider fan this is great news, now he can get back to business and focus exclusively (hopefully) on his own label. He needs to stop serving up the same collection every season and start pushing some boundries.

    https://www.google.co.uk/amp/wwd.com...202640964/amp/

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Law View Post
    Haider has left Berluti after only three seasons, rumour is KVA will take his place.
    As a huge Haider fan this is great news, now he can get back to business and focus exclusively (hopefully) on his own label. He needs to stop serving up the same collection every season and start pushing some boundries.
    I‘m struggling to see how this is good news for either side. Haider had real resources behind him at Berluti and could really start to work his magic, within the constraints of a viable, growing business. The fit was great (especially the chance to explore luxury and colour), and with all great fits there will be tension.

    It is a travesty if he has been shoved aside to make way for KVA, a designer who ran out of steam years ago. In his hands Berluti will be another bland luxury label.
    spinning glue back into horses. . .

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pumpfish View Post
    It is a travesty if he has been shoved aside to make way for KVA, a designer who ran out of steam years ago. In his hands Berluti will be another bland luxury label.
    Berluti is and always has been a bland luxury brand regardless of the head designer.
    ...bombing the bass, blasting the beat

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pumpfish View Post
    I‘m struggling to see how this is good news for either side. Haider had real resources behind him at Berluti and could really start to work his magic, within the constraints of a viable, growing business. The fit was great (especially the chance to explore luxury and colour), and with all great fits there will be tension.

    It is a travesty if he has been shoved aside to make way for KVA, a designer who ran out of steam years ago. In his hands Berluti will be another bland luxury label.
    Did you read my post? In what way did I infer that this was a positive for Berluti?
    Frankly I couldn’t care less who takes the helm, as I’m indifferent to Berluti as both a brand or company.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by ian+ View Post
    Berluti is and always has been a bland luxury brand regardless of the head designer.
    Yes, I’m sure we’ll all miss those $5,000 suede bombers.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Law View Post
    Did you read my post? In what way did I infer that this was a positive for Berluti?
    Frankly I couldnít care less who takes the helm, as Iím indifferent to Berluti as both a brand or company.
    I read your post Law. It wasnít very long.

    You werenít commenting on Berluti, just HA.

    The problem with HAís own label is that it is underfunded. The production budget constrains the execution of his vision. Budget was not a constraint at Berluti. But of course there were other commercial constraints - such as satisfying enough customers with $5k to drop on a bomber.

    As an observer (and occasional customer), I was enjoying watching this unfold.

    As an aside KVA faced the same dilemma with his own label before he moved to Dior.
    spinning glue back into horses. . .

  7. #7
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    I still don't understand what the point of the whole exercise was for a stodgy shoemaker to hire a talented designer. If it was to lift a profile of the brand through a Paris fashion show (but they had shows before Haider) and promote new product categories to increase revenue - Haider upheld his part. But they did nothing on their end - no advertising, no events, nothing in terms of marketing. What did they expect - that customers appear overnight? Haider is not Virgil - he does not come with hype in tow. As my friend joked - watch, they'll hire Heron Preston next.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pumpfish View Post

    The problem with HA’s own label is that it is underfunded.
    Where are you getting this information from?

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    I still don't understand what the point of the whole exercise was for a stodgy shoemaker to hire a talented designer. If it was to lift a profile of the brand through a Paris fashion show (but they had shows before Haider) and promote new product categories to increase revenue - Haider upheld his part. But they did nothing on their end - no advertising, no events, nothing in terms of marketing. What did they expect - that customers appear overnight? Haider is not Virgil - he does not come with hype in tow. As my friend joked - watch, they'll hire Heron Preston next.
    Perhaps the pace and magnitude of the Gucci turnaround has reset expectations across the road at LVMH. Arnault Jr lost patience with the pace of growth in his pet project?

    (I donít buy the soft landing for KVA. They are not that sentimental.)

    The depressing upshot is a great designer has been separated from a great workshop.
    spinning glue back into horses. . .

  10. #10

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    It's confirmed, KVA takes over from Haider at Berluti.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Law View Post
    It's confirmed, KVA takes over from Haider at Berluti.
    Heh. Who knows anything!!!
    spinning glue back into horses. . .

  12. #12
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    KVA is the greatest mystery to me. Here is a nonentity who has been incredibly successful retaining incredibly lucrative positions.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Faust View Post
    KVA is the greatest mystery to me. Here is a nonentity who has been incredibly successful retaining incredibly lucrative positions.
    LVMH clinging to what’s left of the residual spirit of the Hedi good old days?

  14. #14

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    KVA's appointment isn't really that surprising. With the likes of Hedi, Kim, Virgil and KVA, it's obvious LVMH are chasing the millennial customers. Sad to see the current state of fashion...

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sufi View Post
    KVA's appointment isn't really that surprising. With the likes of Hedi, Kim, Virgil and KVA, it's obvious LVMH are chasing the millennial customers. Sad to see the current state of fashion...
    So they appointed KVA to chase the millennials? Your logic makes no sense, sorry.
    ...bombing the bass, blasting the beat

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sufi View Post
    KVA's appointment isn't really that surprising. With the likes of Hedi, Kim, Virgil and KVA, it's obvious LVMH are chasing the millennial customers. Sad to see the current state of fashion...
    You mean the I-generation?

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Law View Post
    LVMH clinging to what’s left of the residual spirit of the Hedi good old days?
    Hedi is back in the LVMH fold...
    Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
    http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post
    Hedi is back in the LVMH fold...
    I meant as far as Dior Homme is concerned. But yes, will be interesting to see what direction he takes Celine.

  19. #19

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    For me it looks like they just had to put KVA somewhere, he has a long history within LVMH. Haider was just there and because his own label is no part of the conglomerate it was probably an easy shuffle for them. Still a weird decision because apparently the sales numbers at Berluti were growing.

  20. #20
    kitsch killer Faust's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muji View Post
    For me it looks like they just had to put KVA somewhere, he has a long history within LVMH. Haider was just there and because his own label is no part of the conglomerate it was probably an easy shuffle for them. Still a weird decision because apparently the sales numbers at Berluti were growing.
    I don't think they need to do anything just to be nice. I am still puzzled. Anyway, whatevs. One more shore to scratch off my calendar.
    Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

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