Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

[Buckwheat]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

I like she put all the old gents in light colors and young models in dark colors. Pretty interesting contrast.

[Faust]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris



/\ Please, this is pure bullshit. Old men have never left the catwalk - yohji and rei have always had them. and to praise a designer's innovation and freshness by choice of models is also silly - let's concentrate on the clothes. Secondly, Ann would be the last person of whom one would demand reinvention and oneupmanship, but to put out same jackets, shirts, and cardigans for the fourth season in a row while only changing the color - that is STALE. To say that this is her best collection to date is laughable and can only show that you are either a) unfamiliar with the history of her work or b) willfully blind.

BTW, what happened to the pictures?

[laika]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris



I actually really loved this as well. I don't think it's any more or less repetitive than Ann's last few collections....but anyway, it's been awhile since I expected her to put something "new." I often find her s/s stuff to be too floppy and unstructured, but she really made it work here, largely because of the colors and the way she presented them (as buckwheat pointed out). The colors are my favorite thing, and I agree with ndf that they are quite surprising. The black/tan and white/cream combos give a raw, almost organic feel that I have never really associated with her work before...it reminds me of early japanese stuff. And I happen to love polka dots and stripes and the way she combined them here, although I understand that the prevailing aesthetic here at SZ does not really embrace patterns. Still, black leather for a s/s collection seems like an odd request! [86]

***And the choice of models really did make this great as a fashion show....so elegant and warm and dignified. [64]

[quote user="new_dawn_fades"]

Im seeing a late 80s comme style revival in the making... charisma chic?

[/quote]

great and heartfelt post....i really agree with this, especially! [87]

[Faust]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

NDF, I did not say I don't agree with your opinion, I just said that it's bullshit. I am rather glad you like the clothes.

[Johnny]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

Hmm, I've been thinking about this notion of sending out the same old stuff and whether that's an automatic critisizm. I think it perhaps indicates a lack of creative flair, butnot much more than that, if even that. Isn't this collection what people who like AD want? It is pretty repetitive, but I don't think that this in enough to render it meritless. There seems to be a bit of evolution there, with the polka dots and the tan colours. I think it's an improvement by miles on that Dada stuff and seems a much more succesful method of using pattern than the AW collection. It has a kind of quite classicism and dignity to it. However I do think the polka dot pyjama suit is, and will make anyone wearing it look,ridiculous, which is not usually something Ann does

[drexl]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

[quote user="laika"]

I actually really loved this as well. I don't think it's any more or less repetitive than Ann's last few collections....but anyway, it's been awhile since I expected her to put something "new." I often find her s/s stuff to be too floppy and unstructured, but she really made it work here, largely because of the colors and the way she presented them (as buckwheat pointed out). The colors are my favorite thing, and I agree with ndf that they are quite surprising. The black/tan and white/cream combos give a raw, almost organic feel that I have never really associated with her work before...it reminds me of early japanese stuff. And I happen to love polka dots and stripes and the way she combined them here, although I understand that the prevailing aesthetic here at SZ does not really embrace patterns. Still, black leather for a s/s collection seems like an odd request! [86]

***And the choice of models really did make this great as a fashion show....so elegant and warm and dignified. [64]

[/quote]

Ah, but she's done beautiful things with paper-thin (non-black) leathers before, but that's what I miss I guess. I just haven't seen her really do anything really interesting with it aside from the odd leather version of a cotton jacket.

Anyways, fixed the pics. Here's a few more close-up shots (that "white-piping" jacket looks great, seems like it actually has double lapels and collars instead of being straight-forward piping):

[drexl]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

[drexl]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

[drexl]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

[Faust]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

Thanks for the closeups, drexl. Some jackets look very good indeed (the one I initially pointed out, especially). The footwear though [N] .

[laika]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris



Thanks for posting those, drexl. I was half teasing about the leather--i know what you mean though. There is a wrap dress made from that papery leather that I keep hoping will re-surface in a collection one day. [:$]

Are those pea pod necklaces around his neck? [:O]

[JSebbe]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris



^yeah, looks like it.. never know when u need the extra energy.

thx for the close-ups drexl (y)

Far not the best she has done, but overall I like this. Some looks better than others, but its goowd.

dunno if one should show that much skin with all the varicose veins though [73]

[Yan]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris

Happy to see Ann back on form

[casem]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris



Good eye laika! That's pretty funny.

[quote user="laika"]

Thanks for posting those, drexl. I was half teasing about the leather--i know what you mean though. There is a wrap dress made from that papery leather that I keep hoping will re-surface in a collection one day. [:$]

Are those pea pod necklaces around his neck? [:O]

[/quote]

[casem]

Re: Ann Demeulemeester Mens - S/S 09 - Paris



I love Suzy's review, from IHT:

"Hermann Hesse's "The Glass Bead Game" was an intellectual discourse from an aging literary lion. The iconic German author might seem an unlikely inspiration but Ann Demeulemeester - give or take a literal rendition of glass bead necklaces - produced a subtle, respectful and thought-provoking collection about "the art of growing older," as she put it poetically backstage.

So the young men, with their swashbuckling fedoras, pants rolled up calf-high under their sinuous black jackets, embraced graphic inky dots of black on beige and made the quintessential style of the Belgian designer look intellectual but spiffy. But then old age fell and the clothes became pale and limpid - weather-beaten hats and gauzy coats draped over fragile figures, as if walking to the book's ivory tower of intellectuals. The vision was touching - and proof that fashion need not end with the onset of old age. "