Rick Owens Men's FW2010 Paris

[editevening]

definitely crop and not tucked in:

http://f.imagehost.org/view/0581/22_3

[YoungM]

I like a lot of this, particularly the kint blazer and the first long white coat. Overall, I like this a lot better than last season, sequined gold teenage girl shirt aside.

What confuses me most though, is the fabric in the coat below. I just don't get it. Looks super plasticy to me, and terribly un-appealing.

[Faust]

^^

Oh and Faust, that half hour conversation you had with Rick will be fodder for our coffee date when you get back. You know that, right? ;)

that will be a lot of coffee, haha.

[tricotineacetat]

What confuses me most though, is the fabric in the coat below. I just don't get it. Looks super plasticy to me, and terribly un-appealing.

That 'fabric' is actually a combination of paper-thin blister leather, mounted on a thin black neoprene layer to create this kind of foam-y texture, therewith allowing the leather to drape in a stiffer, more sculptural way, yet keeping the coat light and warm. It's still got all the nice scrapped texures on the skin so i don't think the piece looked very plastic-like on closer inspection.

Other than that, I must say I have to revise my first impression regarding the pieces I liked from first glance of runway images and show to how the pieces eventually present themselves on closer inspection - The tailoring I think was pretty badly made, I personally don't get how you would combine ultra high and stiff shoulderpads (the extreme ones create a round-ish break on the top armhole part, creating a 'too-small' looking impression) with flipsy, drape-y woollens . I also had the impression that the canvas or whatever they used to interline the jackets were in some cases not well fixed...!

There were two cable knit tuniques with kangaroo pockets I thought were terrific and that will make a nice update on many rick owens outfits, just as one of the new coats with snap buttoned belts (either the blister/neoprene combo or a stiff macintosh fabric trench with massive collar for me).

I'll post pictures once I find a bit of time to upload mine, so you can get a better idea of the pieces up-close.

[YoungM]

Well, I wasn't able to see it, so I'll trust your judgement. I'm still iffy on the small buttons on the center strap though.

[mona13]

I absolutely adore the color palette I hope womens will be similar.
Also agree with interest - Rick makes insane blazers, but is more often associated with leather. I don't love every piece (i.e metallic halter top), but overall, it's fantastic

[mrbeuys]

From dazeddigital.com

http://www.dazeddigital.com/view/default.aspx?Category=34&ArticleID=6356&PageNum=1

After last season’s mix of Russian techno and denim, the autumn winter collection from Rick Owens was a bit of a surprise, albeit a pleasant one. For his Friday lunchtime show just south of the Seine, the American designer tried out his tailoring skills. And even though he claims this was just a fad, it was an impressive suit effort from Owens.

His androgynous models wore formal coats, some in slight silver or golden shades, and often over a turtleneck jumper. Other models appeared to be wearing a male version of halter neck tops, and others preserved Owens’ mojo by showing a bare and sexy back.

Just because denim was out this season didn’t mean leather followed suit. We saw jackets and coats in leather - which is Rick Owens’ trademark material – and often they came out in brown, black or beige colours. Layering and Owens’ characteristic play with the length of garments also persisted, ditto his love for of fur. But even though we were treated to a surprisingly mature collection, there were clear signs of the old forward pushing designer we have come to love; duvet jackets and platform boots in snakeskin made everyone leave in an even better mood.

DD: What was your source of inspiration this time around?
Rick Owens: This season was about opulence for me. I’ve focused on austerity for the past men’s season, which I’ll probably go back to soon…

DD: It was rather a tailored collection for you, wasn’t it?
Rick Owens: Yes, last season was such an indulgence in denim, and this one was more of a library.

DD: Library?
Rick Owens: Tweeds and cigars. It had a country manor feeling to it.

DD: Do you feel it was a mature collection because of all the tailoring?
Rick Owens: It’s a mature option, not a mature direction. I will always have my leather! And also it’s a great challenge – you don’t normally think of Rick Owens when you see tailoring. I like a challenge to react to, it’s a good base for a collection.

DD: There were a few quite sexy pieces though – like the bare back tops…
Rick Owens: Yeah, well you know, tailoring can get boring. You gotta put a bit of sex into it!

DD: Any favourite pieces from the show?
Rick Owens: I’m going to be wearing the black tailored coat made out of silk and wool all winter long!

[Chant]

Showroom review 2

The new T shape, which can be seen both on the knits and the trousers. Looks like a new variation on the famous dick flap, longer and more geometric, as a reminiscence of the geometric lines introduced this summer, for example on the leather's zippers, and which had also already beeb seen in the women's collection, as often with RO.

The new turtleneck knit, which will make as well a nice update in many rick outfits, and give the possibility to move from the tank+double layered LS combination. Will also give the owner the cosy "library+tweed+cognac+chimney" feeling (thanks to MrBeuys for the link).

And the usual cardigans, in many shapes, with nice and thick fabrics in plain and contrasting colours.

[Chant]

Showroom review 3

Leathers jackets were of course on the racks. Classic shapes, like Intarsia, Scuba or Mollino, and fabrics (like the blistered and the hammered lamb) have been renewed, but Geo and Bauhaus are missing.
Two new beautiful colours in the hammered lamb version : light brown and greyish green.

THE jacket, but not enough light to take a proper pic, and after, it was gone... Same cut in the back as the SS ones with the broad zipper in the back.

[Chant]

Showroom review 4

Simple skorts will be available again next season, but not the most original. New shape appears, with the T flap, which is like an apron that is buttoned on the side of the waist.

Another version, without apron, but with a large waistband, like on a kimono.

Drop crotch leggins, with a rich and thick fabric.

Looks like the streetstyle inspired cheap looking fabrics have now been be replaced by richer ones, with nice colours, leaving away the classic toned down earth inspired palette.

[Chant]

Showroom review 5

Lots of coats, and new shapes, but the most surprising are the fabrics : some very stiff, almost CCP like (the white one for eaxmple), other very soft. RO is for example using a very thick velvet, which doesn't really hold the shape of the coat. Strange...

The two stages coat

[Chant]

Showroom review 6

I've always been interested in RO's tailored stuff, and considers it as the most appealing parts of his recent work, you know it. But this time, I'm wondering if he didn't go a step to far. I couldn't check precisely, but iut looks like the shoulders are even higher and therefore more narrow than the previous season.

Fabrics are very nice again, with sometimes a strange bling feeling.
Other characteristic feature (gimmick ?), the cut out lapels :

[Chant]

And this one is dedicated to Lowrey

Btw I'll try my best to answer to your questions, but if I don't, it's only because I don't know the answer.

[mrbeuys]

Christian, thanks so much for this wonderful report from the showroom. I couldn't imagine another place where I could find these pictures, especially the day after the show. Almost as good as being there, but not quite. Next one, I will join for sure!

[AKA*NYC]

was the drkshdw collection in the showroom as well? if so what did that look like overall and were there any standout pieces? is there a new (hopefully longer) version of the denim with leather sleeves jacket? i'm also curious about the leather jackets. were any made from calf or horse leather? were there any new styles? thanks for posting by the way!