Yohji Yamamoto Mens FW10

[jogu]

^ love the chunky shoes

[Avantster]

Refrained from commenting until I saw a video and it was certainly worth the wait. A 'best hits of' collection of sorts, and a fitting one for Yohji to return to the place he feels most at home, after an absence of some twenty years.

thanks for the video, the whole thing woeks much better. The show is about yohji yamamoto man, THE MEN, and I can spot each iteration he has used during the years, the yakuza, yohji himself, the gypsy, the schoolboy, the warrior (in western and eastern fashion), the chinese revolutionary...

Agreed, though I've also felt there's always been a strong feeling of the bankara in his work, the original rebels who fought against the westernization of Japanese dress, specifically, school uniforms. The influence of the yukata in long coats, the hakamas in wide pants, the geta in creepers, the destroyed uniforms in raw textures..

[Servo2000]

servo2000 would like to hear more about these bankara

[Heirloom]

favourite look by far. I love the blanket cape, though, but this coat paired with the trousers are striking in their simplicity, and the lines are so pure.

[Faust]

Well, he certainly sounds upbeat.

From WWD

TOKYO — More than 3,200 people packed into one of this city’s 1964 Olympic stadiums to catch Yohji Yamamoto’s return to the runway for his men’s collection, proving the iconic designer has quite a following in his hometown.

Yamamoto had opted out of his traditional Paris runway show for his men’s line for the past two seasons, but decided it was time to return to the city where he got his start.

The event also gave Yamamoto’s fans a chance to show their support for the designer, whose company filed for bankruptcy protection with the Tokyo District Court last October. Japanese private equity fund Integral Corp. has since taken over the business and is restructuring it.

“This is a kind of compensation for my absence from Japan. I’m sorry I was absent for 20 years,” Yamamoto said, explaining his home country provided the principal inspiration for his collection. The looks featured plenty of the designer’s signature black, punctuated with patchwork suits, asymmetrically hemmed sweaters and the occasional burst of camouflage, bright red or peach.

Yamamoto enlisted a string of Japanese celebrities, including musicians and author Makoto Shiina, to walk the show. Plenty of antics ensued. Philippe Troussier, the former coach of Japan’s national soccer team, kicked a ball into the audience, while the dance troupe Condors cheekily vogued in the designer’s creations. At one point, Yamamoto’s own design team, which includes two women, strutted down the elevated runway.

“[The men in the show] live driven by thoughts, skills, feelings, and senses, rather than by economics. Economic power is something we [as Japan] don’t need to strive for anymore,” Yamamoto said. “We should be putting our energy toward something else. By something else, I mean a beautiful country, a complete country. That is the theme behind this collection.”

The designer said he hasn’t decided whether he’ll do another runway show in Tokyo next season, but he’s committed to continue showing in Paris. He added his brand is planning “lots” of store openings in China.

Yamamoto said the financial turmoil at his company hasn’t stunted his creativity — in fact, it’s had the opposite effect. “It’s very simple. A very good partner came to me and said: ‘Please continue your work.’ I’m continuing naturally. It’s a better situation than before,” he explained.

Reiterating his commitment to high-quality production in Japan, Yamamoto had a few choice words about the rise of fast fashion. “I don’t think it’s a threat,” he said. "I would say: ‘Let it go. Go to hell.’”

[Servo2000]

runner dixit:

1
2
3

thank you!

[Avantster]

Runner pretty much covered it but you can find more information (albeit in Japanese) if you search for バンカラ [1 2] or look into the history of school uniforms in Japan.

[chameleon]

I'm a bit behind on this but I just watched the show on youtube. I love the pacing and the relaxed vibe it gave off, a lot of the clothes came alive in motion too. It's definitely growing on me.

Oh, and this made me so happy for some reason. Sat with a silly smile on my face for two minutes:

[stadsvandringar]

Seems like it's time to update this thread. The first AW2010 pieces are arriving in the shops here in Tokyo. The collection is looking really good in person actually. I have been pleasantly surprised. A lot of the pieces so far are very wearable. I've been especially into the blazers with scarves attached, the knits and pants. It really all looks pretty good, aside from some of the camo pieces. Prices seem to be typically yohji: coats are around 100,000-200,000 yen depending on the piece, blazers 70,000 or so up to 120,000 or so, and pants around 60,000-80,000 yen depending. I've been afraid to look at the knit prices because they're really cool and it will hurt my soul.

I also saw that Atelier looks like they're getting some in too, which leads me to believe that other places are also getting new yohji. Anyone had a look at the US/non-Japanese pricing?

[jamesd]

I also saw that Atelier looks like they're getting some in too, which leads me to believe that other places are also getting new yohji. Anyone had a look at the US/non-Japanese pricing?

Knits are $1k+ at Atelier -- I imagine jackets are around $2k and coats $3k

[Fade to Black]

those prices are crazy

i liked the reversible camo suit, may be the only one. Well, at least I prefer YY's camo to Junya MAN's camo this season.

[chameleon]

seems on par with ss10 pricing in japan -- possibly slightly more expensive?

thanks for the price rundown, stadsvandringar! now let us in on some of the actual pieces! something particular that stood out for you in person? what are the fabrics like?

[Fade to Black]

it sounds more expensive than aw09-10

i too had thought prices went down somewhat during ss10 and might have been part of the restructuring package. Guess business is back and aboomin', cousin.

[stadsvandringar]

The yohji shops in Tokyo started doing an exhibition of the FW season this weekend. I went around to several of them (the two in shinjuku, one in shibuya and the one in ikebukuro), and was surprised to see them fairly busy. At the end of the SS10 season, during the sales, the shops were like a ghost town. I get the impression he's got a pretty devoted clientele that buy right when it's released.

As far as good pieces go, I am into this one:



I wasn't too impressed by the runway fit, but I think it works well in person. Plus you can also get a black scarf I believe.

[Fade to Black]

If I could rock one outfit from the show it'd be



that shirt is a winner