Men's fashion week: Paris

[zamb]

call me maestro. flying tomorrow. terrified to pack certain things after losing a suitcase a couple of weeks ago

i just arrived, im still at the airport and a mess at the moment

My phone is dead but I'll find a way to call you

see you soon

[lowrey]

so its about 8C inside my apartment

[interest1]

call me maestro. flying tomorrow. terrified to pack certain things after losing a suitcase a couple of weeks ago

That's terrible. So sorry that happened to you.

Never, ever, ever check luggage, period. I carry on an expandable leather tote whenever I fly. And if I can't stuff it into the bag, I'll throw it on my back. One leather jacket on top of another sometimes, fuck it.

Never risk what you can't afford to lose!

[lowrey]

I could've managed with a carry on, but this last one was a direct flight within europe which is quite safe. all the horror stories I hear are usually with connections, especially at big hubs, I lost mine when connecting through heathrow.

Usually I travel with the wife and kid though, which makes it impossible to not check luggage in :/ the major losses on the earlier flight were a brand new stroller and my A1923 sneakers

[Faust]

If you are in Paris, go see WM at L'Eclaireur

[zamb]

weather here is just awful..........

I fell in this damn snow and nearly broke myself in half!

[Faust]

If you are in Paris, go see WM at L'Eclaireur

Wanted to bring it to the new page

[lowrey]

can't believe my flight actually took off from paris! the minute I boarded, it started snowing like hell, but it was warm enough so it melted instantly.

I spent 24 hours in the last two days (9am - 9pm) either walking in slush and taking awkward steps, or just standing up, and my feet certainly feel like it...

[BBSCCP]

^ A. I was lucky, too and am now back in Berlin. Was cool meeting you guys.

[Aleks]

can't believe my flight actually took off from paris! the minute I boarded, it started snowing like hell, but it was warm enough so it melted instantly.

I spent 24 hours in the last two days (9am - 9pm) either walking in slush and talking awkward steps, or just standing up, and my feet certainly feel like it...

There's a video of me pissed off stomping around and slipping on the sidewalk

[Faust]

can't believe my flight actually took off from paris! the minute I boarded, it started snowing like hell, but it was warm enough so it melted instantly.

I spent 24 hours in the last two days (9am - 9pm) either walking in slush and taking awkward steps, or just standing up, and my feet certainly feel like it...

Definitely taking my CDiems for a facelift as soon as I come back to NYC.

[originalre0]

really happy to met youguys in InAisce party

[Faust]

I figured I'd write a few rambling impressions on Paris before jetlag knocks me out.

Overall, I thought it was a pretty strong season - definitely a huge uplift from Spring/Summer, which was a total disaster, except BBS and smaller, artisanal labels.

1. The big SZ runway two of Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens had strong shows as esthetic statements. However, in the showroom I, surprisingly, found myself wanting nothing. I can't figure out if I'm jaded or what. Rick definitely had a few standout pieces, notably the shaved and reverse furs (I don't know who's going to buy a fur tank, but it was an interesting proposition) as well as slim jean/legging hybrid. They have successfully derailed their leathers again by using those cheap looking zippers. I just don't get it. The hides themselves are much better than before, but in a reversal, the blistered lamb, which seemed the stronghold of the past few seasons did not look very good.

At Ann the clothes were nice and definitely step up in quality. Still, I could not find a piece that grabbed me. In retrospect, there was not a single asymmetric piece, an Ann signature. The boots were great as usual though. Also, Ann has launched a suiting capsule collection for men. Basically it's an Ann take on a suit, but everything I saw was really classic and, excepting the fabrics, could've been done by anyone.

Boris Bidjan Saberi quietly continues to put out fantastic, hardcore shit. I've had a total turnaround about his work. Also, the big news is that University of Bologna published BBS's monograph, for which I contributed an essay. More on that when the book hits the shelves. Other big news is that BBS introduced a women's capsule collection. Laides, don't sleep on that. There were really amazing leathers and boots!

Another strong runway collection I thought was from Yamamoto, where he continued to shine best at his signature tailoring. When Yohji does what Yohji does best, he's really on top.

The little guys:

Lumen et Umbra had an interesting collection with some new offerings. There was some neoprene-like fabric, which would usually leave me cold but it worked there. Also, this was the first time ever that I was tempted by skirted pants. There was a beautiful black pair of wool leggins with a kilt. At first I was thinking good for lounging until I tried them on and it was a totally kickass look. Who knew?!

M.A.+ did a coat version of the aviator in gray marbled canvas which was an absolute stunner. Might be the piece of the season. Save your pennies, it ain't gonna be cheap but damn gorgeous.

Label Under Construction introduced a new recycled tent material, this time the lining of the tent made into trench coats preserving the original details. The new knitting techniques were so out there that they deserve an article of their own.

Individual Sentiments continued with a kickass footwear collection, but the clothes were not as brilliant as the past seasons.

Guidi had some new great bags. Overall, their offerings have increased significantly, they even had to rearrange the showroom.

Forme continued doing their thing quietly. Not much in terms of innovation of the silhouette, but always beautiful fabrics. They also brought back more leather.

Augusta, in addition to their footwear produced a couple of beautiful coats in English wool. These were and will be inevitably likened to Harnden, but I think they were distinctly Augusta's.

There is a new noteworthy shoe line from Barny Nakhle, coming to LN-CC and L'Eclaireur, among others.

Oh, and Stephan Schneider had a really strong collection! Beautiful cuts and colors and fabric combinations. It's not my personal style, but I really loved it. I wish I had a camera with me when I visited the showroom.

[kunk75]

BBS for women sounds enticing, his collection was the standout for me.

[magic]

E, thanks for the review.