Thamanyah by Ahmed Abdelrahman

[Faust]

I don't know. I mean Ahmed is an Arab, so I don't understand the gripe about politics or it being KTZ. I think he's entitled to use his language. Yohji has done worse, having used Thai and Russian.

Now, whether it succeeds aesthetically is a different question. In my opinion some of it does (the shawl), some of it does not.

[interest1]

I don't know. I mean Ahmed is an Arab, so I don't understand the gripe about politics or it being KTZ. I think he's entitled to use his language. Yohji has done worse, having used Thai and Russian.

Now, whether it succeeds aesthetically is a different question. In my opinion some of it does (the shawl), some of it does not.

I hadn't realized that the gun-to-the-head graphic was a new character (pardon the pun) in that alphabet. Rhetorical sarcasm aside, I wasn't referring to the written language he is using in his collection, which he's certainly entitled to use. It's the injection of that provocative weapon print playing alongside the script translation which had me raising a brow.

With that, any statement Abdelrahman is or isn't trying to make within this collection isn't where I'm seeing misfortune. It's in the exactly now timing of its release that I can't help but feel undermines it –something I doubt he could have foreseen.

Then again, maybe I've just reached my tipping point with religious persecution, genocide, war and war crimes dominating international news like never before. Hard enough for the mind to absorb, let alone the heart.

[delicious_not]

wow... this is so bad. looks like a diffusion line really.

[mikko]

Lol, is that a gas pump print on the other leg? Stereotyping if you ask me.

[Shucks]

he's from dubai. he's used beautiful arabic calligraphy (though black-on-black would be better imho - this is a bit too loud in places..) and also icons referencing the middle-eastern / gulf region petrochemical sector - one of the most important political topics of the region. if i am not mistaken, this collection is a comment on how competition in that industry creates division amongst arabic states.

the falcon design refers at least in part to falconry as a very important traditional leisure activity for arabic aristocracy. thamanyah is intended as a luxury brand, not 'avant-garde', and the intended market is not SZ. rather, i know he would be/is very pleased to see arabic nobility as part of his clientele.

what the hell is the problem? why do you feel so threatened by any references to arabic culture? stop lumping everything arabic together and stop being victims of the media's fear-mongering.

reactions such as these are exactly why a brand like thamanyah is needed and exactly why he should keep integrating arabic culture in his work.

[cc-e]

Its not a weapon, its a petrol pump. Power of oil have proven to be a double edged sword in this region. He labelled this collection as Petronaissance which is a play on the word petrol and 'naissance' (birth). I do get the image as I am from the same region. The man holding the pump to his head is identity. And this is why he is using the arabic calligraphy with a heaven pronounced in english. Im guessing he is using the falcon all around to emphasis on identity because it's one of symbols in his region.

ps: I agree, Thamanyah is not avant-garde. Looking at the first collection, I dont think he ever intended it to be avant-garde.

[mikko]

what the hell is the problem? why do you feel so threatened by any references to arabic culture? stop lumping everything arabic together and stop being victims of the media's fear-mongering.

For me personally, it's not about culture. It just that the printed stuff looks like shit.

[Shucks]

For me personally, it's not about culture. It just that the printed stuff looks like shit.

this contradicts the essence of your earlier post. but whatever - glad to have both your thoughtful contributions in the thread.

[delicious_not]

how can it not be an avant-garde brand? and what is a luxury brand? givenchy, dior homme, valentino - these are all "luxury" brands to me, and if you compare them to thamanyah i'd say the latter is avant-garde as fuck in comparison... all these NBA-friendly kandoras, gloved shirts, twisted suiting - if this is not avant-garde then i can't even imagine what would qualify as avant-garde here on SZ.

[galia]

all you describe has been done for a while, they are now elements of niche classics. avant garde would require something radically new, and I don't think the juxtaposition of arabic dress with these classic niche SZ elements (for lack of a better term) is enough to qualify it as avant garde.

[upsilonkng]

he's from dubai. he's used beautiful arabic calligraphy (though black-on-black would be better imho - this is a bit too loud in places..) and also icons referencing the middle-eastern / gulf region petrochemical sector - one of the most important political topics of the region. if i am not mistaken, this collection is a comment on how competition in that industry creates division amongst arabic states.

the falcon design refers at least in part to falconry as a very important traditional leisure activity for arabic aristocracy. thamanyah is intended as a luxury brand, not 'avant-garde', and the intended market is not SZ. rather, i know he would be/is very pleased to see arabic nobility as part of his clientele.

what the hell is the problem? why do you feel so threatened by any references to arabic culture? stop lumping everything arabic together and stop being victims of the media's fear-mongering.

reactions such as these are exactly why a brand like thamanyah is needed and exactly why he should keep integrating arabic culture in his work.

I'm sure when the day comes I as an angeleno feels the need for an $800 tank and $1000 pants to comment on arab culture, lifestyle , and source of income while wanting to fit in w/ all the ghetto goth dorks comes, this will be my only option. Until that dreadful day though I would say this looks silly, childish, cheap and to me pointless.

so shucks since intent of any designer is ur gig, what's the intent then? yeah i'm sure as a luxory brand wanting the big money of Dubai, is commenting on oil the thing to do? maybe he's selling to the rebel sons of oil tycoons like Calvin peeing on a Chrysler logo in Detroit?

[unwashed]

Why discuss whether this is avant-garde or not. Does it matter for it to be liked more if it is or isn't? Seems like a pointless discussion to me.

To discuss this collection, remove all the logo's and text and you have a real simple collection with some ordinary pieces combined with men-dresses and leggings. Nothing really special about it. Collection looks kinda lazy designed to me. Throw together some basic and simple designs with luxurious materials and put text and logo's at random places=new collection.

Don't get me wrong, I think lazy design is not a bad thing. Because I like simple silhouettes and wearable stuff. But with this, I hate the over-exaggerated text and logo's all over the place.

I think he does follow some current trends like KTZ and HBA with the in-your-face prints and black/white contrast and the shorts over legging stuff. Call it darkfashionz/darkwear/streetgoth or whatever :p

Can't blame him though, at some point you need to sell your stuff to keep continue in fashion and why not with pieces with high sell-prospective

[mikko]

this contradicts the essence of your earlier post. but whatever - glad to have both your thoughtful contributions in the thread.

Haha, don't really understand why you're so passionate about defending this collection. The non-calligraphic visual metaphors are hamfisted and lack any kind of subtlety. I like the idea of the collection (if those are the actual motivations of the designer you posted earlier) but the implementation does not work at all for me.

[casem]

The problem isn't that he's referencing Arab culture or making a political critique. The problem is that it's so heavy handed and obvious, it's like a New York designer putting the statue of liberty, a hotdog, and dollar bill prints on their clothes (oh wait, Jeremy Scott already does this...). And more to the point than whether the political statement "works" here or not, is that the aesthetic result is a huge downgrade from his usual ultra refined and elegant style. This reads as a move toward the lazy "put a stark white graphic on black streetwear" brands that are receiving so much hype right now which is naive at best and a shrewd business move at worst. As Interest said, bad timing indeed.

he's from dubai. he's used beautiful arabic calligraphy (though black-on-black would be better imho - this is a bit too loud in places..) and also icons referencing the middle-eastern / gulf region petrochemical sector - one of the most important political topics of the region. if i am not mistaken, this collection is a comment on how competition in that industry creates division amongst arabic states.

the falcon design refers at least in part to falconry as a very important traditional leisure activity for arabic aristocracy. thamanyah is intended as a luxury brand, not 'avant-garde', and the intended market is not SZ. rather, i know he would be/is very pleased to see arabic nobility as part of his clientele.

what the hell is the problem? why do you feel so threatened by any references to arabic culture? stop lumping everything arabic together and stop being victims of the media's fear-mongering.

reactions such as these are exactly why a brand like thamanyah is needed and exactly why he should keep integrating arabic culture in his work.

[Faust]

The problem isn't that he's referencing Arab culture or making a political critique. The problem is that it's so heavy handed and obvious, it's like a New York designer putting the statue of liberty, a hotdog, and dollar bill prints on their clothes (oh wait, Jeremy Scott already does this...). And more to the point than whether the political statement "works" here or not, is that the aesthetic result is a huge downgrade from his usual ultra refined and elegant style. This reads as a move toward the lazy "put a stark white graphic on black streetwear" brands that are receiving so much hype right now which is naive at best and a shrewd business move at worst. As Interest said, bad timing indeed.

Actually, I don't find it heavy-handed at all. If you read what cc-e wrote, "Heaven" transliterated as a comment on a conflicted, globalized identity, I think that's quite clever and not obvious. Definitely not like putting a hot dog on a sweatshirt.

And, upsilon, I have to say that I understand a desire of a creative person to slip in a message in a medium he works in, and that's Ahmed's medium. What do you want him to do, print posters?

Last but not least, none of us have seen this in person. It might be quite a different story how these clothes look IRL.