Carol Christian Poell

[xcoldricex]

Re: Carol Christian Poell



i don't know if this has been mentioned... but a rare poell interview?

Poell on taste (googletranslated here):

19th Mai 2005: Erziehung May 2005: Education
Geschmack ist nichts anderes als Erziehung. Taste is nothing other than education. Weil
was man gewohnt ist, was man nachvollziehen kann, ist für einen
Geschmack, was man nicht nachvollziehen kann ist geschmacklos. Because what is normally what you can understand, is a taste of what we can not understand is tasteless. Um das Wort Geschmack zu definieren braucht man einen Vorgänger. To taste the word to define need a predecessor. Alles andere ist geschmacklos. Everything else is tasteless. Deshalb
ist es oft ein Hindernis, weil man seine Schablonen anlegt und sagt:
okay, alles was in dem drinnen ist, ist für mich geschmacklich gut,
alles draußen ist schlecht. Therefore, it is often an obstacle
because you can create templates and says, okay, everything was in the
inside, is for me taste good, everything outside is bad.

Warum passiert das? Why is that happening? Weil man so erzogen ist. Because it is so educated. Das ist natürlich unsere Kultur. Of course, this is our culture. Andere Kulturen legen natürlich andere geschmackliche Maßstäbe an. Other cultures put different course taste standards. Aber das ist natürlich persönlich, wie man erzogen worden ist, wo man aufgewachsen ist, was man erlebt hat. But it is, of course, personally, as you brought up, where we grew up, what one has experienced. Und in diesem Sinn legt man auch geschmackliche Maßstäbe an. And in this sense, you also taste standards.

Das
Problem der Mode schlechthin ist, dass man etwas zu einem bestimmten
Zeitpunkt - das ist der Zeitgeist und Trend - etwas als geschmacklich
gut definiert. The problem is simply the fashion that you
something at a certain time - that's the zeitgeist and trend - a little
taste as well. Und jeder hat sich danach zu richten. And then everyone has to be addressed. Wer sich nicht danach richtet, ist geschmacklich schlecht. Who then is not, is bad taste. Dagegen bin ich sehr stark. On the other hand, I am very strong.

Carol Christian Poell, Modeschöpfer Carol Christian Poell, fashion creators

and another article on poell in german.

any better translations would be much appreciated!

[matthewhk]

Re: Carol Christian Poell



[quote user="ionn26"]I don't understand why the hip is showing so big.. its crazy... and does not look proportionally correct.[/quote]

that waist balloon effect seems to be in all the CCP suit fit pics i have seen from stores websites...as i asked in the other thread, is this an intentional effect of the tailoring? Even when trying a blazer on i had that same thing. Can someone who owns a CCP suit and has it fit differently please step out and help clarify? Thanks.

[philip nod]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

there is no waist balloon effect. the model just has a weird grotesque body

[buratino]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

strange to hear that from the experts. a fact that sometime ago CCP have changed his slim curves to trapeze.people have beenasking him to continue producing his slm fits, but he've been refusing saying that it's not interesting for him anymore(but after i was surprised meeting his quite old school suits last season). first, when you put ona trapezesuit,the feeling is very uncomfortable & it lookslikea bigger size(especially in pancho area).but later i caught the fit & now, really, i count them as more interesting then his classics(wich are still outstanding)

[matthewhk]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="buratino"]

strange to hear that from the experts. a fact that sometime ago CCP have changed his slim curves to trapeze.people have beenasking him to continue producing his slm fits, but he've been refusing saying that it's not interesting for him anymore(but after i was surprised meeting his quite old school suits last season). first, when you put ona trapezesuit,the feeling is very uncomfortable & it lookslikea bigger size(especially in pancho area).but later i caught the fit & now, really, i count them as more interesting then his classics(wich are still outstanding)

[/quote]

trapeze suit...meaning the hip area flares out? So this is his design, yes?

[buratino]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

matthewhk , i'm surepeople here will explain the trapeze curve much more better than i can do...i can only put it as amatter of fact &share with my personal expirience

[matthewhk]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

it's alright, thanks for sharing. i think you may have confirmed my suspicions...i can't imagine that many fit pics from so many different sources can be wrong.

[buratino]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

definitely you're right :)

his new suits have more clochard look %)

[sheshelis]

Re: Carol Christian Poell



hello again everyone!

i feel i should give you a little briefing about ccp footwear (more of craftmans side..sort of technical)

they are a piece of craft art!! it is incredible the way they are made ! even if you look at those and think: ok this is a fashion boot or shoe and it might fall apart(which happens...god damn it!) but the technical side is awesom!

you know that footwear is made for different seasons: cold, hot, damp, etc... ccp footwear is made for mixed season (even if you can not actualy wear them in winter becouse your feet is freezing..).

i'll explain: some boots are only glued and stitched, some glued and nailed (depending ss or aw season or climate).

CCP footwear is made using all of those, so that means that you can wear them any season any climate and any weather condition!! the only thing you would need to do is impregnate against water(wax or whatever) !

you can walk in the rain, sand, anywhere!! and the only product is used (ususaly) is natural leather! the way of making is so complex i shall not even start to explain that!

i have 150% respect for labels as carpe diem and ccp for beeing so clever and standing out against all the others in the whole thing they do! (actualy carpe not any more as it doesnt exist and all the rest of it are just useless copy cats (amadei and laurini not included in my disrespect list))!!!

i think even if the buckle falls out from carol boots - f** that! the most important thing is the makers are loyal to traditional old school way of producing and no one ever can compete with that!

[lowrey]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

I think it all depends on whos wearing the suit, but I do think the blazers have a slightly flaring cut to them. I have a pretty regular torso shape and there has beena slight A shape in the blazers I've tried on. might depend on sizing as well. personally I like the cut a lot when it fits well.

[philip nod]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="sheshelis"]

hello again everyone!

i feel i should give you a little briefing about ccp footwear (more of craftmans side..sort of technical)

they are a piece of craft art!! it is incredible the way they are made ! even if you look at those and think: ok this is a fashion boot or shoe and it might fall apart(which happens...god damn it!) but the technical side is awesom!

you know that footwear is made for different seasons: cold, hot, damp, etc... ccp footwear is made for mixed season (even if you can not actualy wear them in winter becouse your feet is freezing..).

i'll explain: some boots are only glued and stitched, some glued and nailed (depending ss or aw season or climate).

CCP footwear is made using all of those, so that means that you can wear them any season any climate and any weather condition!! the only thing you would need to do is impregnate against water(wax or whatever) !

you can walk in the rain, sand, anywhere!! and the only product is used (ususaly) is natural leather! the way of making is so complex i shall not even start to explain that!

i have 150% respect for labels as carpe diem and ccp for beeing so clever and standing out against all the others in the whole thing they do! (actualy carpe not any more as it doesnt exist and all the rest of it are just useless copy cats (amadei and laurini not included in my disrespect list))!!!

i think even if the buckle falls out from carol boots - f** that! the most important thing is the makers are loyal to traditional old school way of producing and no one ever can compete with that!

[/quote]

the only thing you would need to do is impregnate against water(wax or whatever) !

whats the best technique for this.

[Johnny]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

There is certainly an A shape to them. It's not hip flare as such (in my opinionthe jacket that deluezeis wearing is too small and hterefore the flare is overemphasised) it's A line. Partly this is acheived by a very high centre vent at the back

[theetruscan]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="sheshelis"]

i'll explain: some boots are only glued and stitched, some glued and nailed (depending ss or aw season or climate).

CCP footwear is made using all of those, so that means that you can wear them any season any climate and any weather condition!! the only thing you would need to do is impregnate against water(wax or whatever) !

i think even if the buckle falls out from carol boots - f** that! the most important thing is the makers are loyal to traditional old school way of producing and no one ever can compete with that!

[/quote]

If the buckle falls out, that's poor workmanship. A lot of shoes are pegged, nailed, stitched. Gluing as a traditional method is not something I knew about (except to hold the cork and "sockliner" to the shoe).

Lots of makers make shoes in a traditional style, and do so in such a manner that things don't fall off. Being loyal to traditional methods isn't worth shit if you are incompetent.

NOTE: I'm not saying that Mr. Poell is incompetent, just pointing out that there's no value in being traditional if you suck at it.

[mortalveneer]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="theetruscan"]

If the buckle falls out, that's poor workmanship. A lot of shoes are pegged, nailed, stitched. Gluing as a traditional method is not something I knew about (except to hold the cork and "sockliner" to the shoe).

Lots of makers make shoes in a traditional style, and do so in such a manner that things don't fall off. Being loyal to traditional methods isn't worth shit if you are incompetent.

NOTE: I'm not saying that Mr. Poell is incompetent, just pointing out that there's no value in being traditional if you suck at it.

[/quote]

I agree completely. Based on this story, I decided against springing for the buckle boots as a graduation present to myself. I can buy boots with buckles that DO stay on for much less than $2000, so I'm sure not going to throw that down for something that doesn't do that...

[Faust]

Re: Carol Christian Poell

[quote user="theetruscan"][quote user="sheshelis"]

i'll explain: some boots are only glued and stitched, some glued and nailed (depending ss or aw season or climate).

CCP footwear is made using all of those, so that means that you can wear them any season any climate and any weather condition!! the only thing you would need to do is impregnate against water(wax or whatever) !

i think even if the buckle falls out from carol boots - f** that! the most important thing is the makers are loyal to traditional old school way of producing and no one ever can compete with that!

[/quote]

If the buckle falls out, that's poor workmanship. A lot of shoes are pegged, nailed, stitched. Gluing as a traditional method is not something I knew about (except to hold the cork and "sockliner" to the shoe).

Lots of makers make shoes in a traditional style, and do so in such a manner that things don't fall off. Being loyal to traditional methods isn't worth shit if you are incompetent.

NOTE: I'm not saying that Mr. Poell is incompetent, just pointing out that there's no value in being traditional if you suck at it.

[/quote]

new sig in the making?