Carol Christian Poell

[thejjbb]

I think the angled/twisted fly adds a lot to the (I hope I am correct in saying) twist seam trousers.

[Fuuma]

found these, from a store in Honolulu:





lighted pics help bring out the details, a bit.

Didn't I post those? They're from MixMix, they have a blog.

[kompressorkev]

Didn't I post those? They're from MixMix, they have a blog.

sorry! didn't check the thread before to see if they'd been posted, just stumbled on them last night.

maybe i can redeem myself with this (i hope these weren't posted yet!):




Pic of the 2009 showroom in Milan, from Domus Magazine (April 2009)

Poell comments on the symbolic relation between the showroom location of the industrial slaughterhouse and this season's experimentation with dripped rubber. The location is fitting, Poell says, "partly because the pouring of rubber recalls the slaughtered cows, and this is where the last drops of blood were left to flow out of the carcasses before being taken to the butchers around the city."

Poell's approach to me is much more complex and brilliant than i had thought. There's thought behind it; it's less cold, less "icicle" as i first estimated, more (if you'll humour me) sanguine. The blood-like dripping of rubber is perhaps an allusion to an existing tension within his works: the appropriation of nature for the construction of artifice (namely, the manipulation of animal skins for clothing). It's fitting that his leather pieces are the ones dripped with rubber. Poell's work is unapologetic, but he interposes a sense of irony perhaps to propitiate his audience for the aspect of the grotesque manifest in such experimentation. Or at least in my estimation, Poell's work is often not without a higher sense of irony. He brilliantly articulates this controversy of employing the natural (both itself and the process of its appropriation are symbolized by blood) for the sake of the artificial. He in turn creates clothing that itself represents the natural (blood) through an artificial means (rubber). It's blood to create clothing, and clothing to mimic blood. Poell's experimentation is assuredly responsible: "I want to say that the animals we use are fully exploited to 100 percent. For example, i don't use animals that are not eaten." But i think that while Poell's thoughts may address an ethical concern of his experimentation, his work on a larger scope is a commentary on clothing. With regards to leather, is it luxury or utility, or an intersection of both? Or is it adorning oneself in something that aligns itself more with nature than the clothing it is intended to be? (I'll post in Augusta perhaps sometime, fascinating pieces coming). And he explores this tension through experimentation: "We even tried using pig entrails to make a pullover."

I hadn't looked at the drippings like that before. Under a meta-critical light, Poell's use of the red dripped rubber is perhaps the most lucent and visible representation of this macabre insinuation. Chilling, to all of my (refrigerated) cells. I wish i could read Poell's comments on each of his collections, and gain some insight into work. To me, it’s these kind of concepts that make Carol Christian Poell the most forward thinker in fashion.

i think this showroom pic that i posted and one that mass posted earlier are appropriate:

[zamb]

a really beautiful and articulate piece, except I only disagree with ther last statement of him being "the most forward thinker in fashion..................
I would have to give that to the great Hussien Chalayan..........

[kompressorkev]

haha, sorry i should have clarified that was my writing and opinion. to that end, i was thinking of menswear; my womenswear favorites are very different. the first picture was from the Domus magazine, and i tried to work in my opinions around the few brief statements that he made, which i had read in the article. my post wasn't meant to reflect Domus's opinions - their article is quite on their own and i'm not trying to replace it, just make my own observations based on some of Carol's commentary found in that issue.

[Johnny]

interesting and thoughtful read kev. personally I'm less concerned with the blood stuff, since I think it's a bit or a singular obsession for him, for whatever - but probably very personal and individually developed - reasons. however i do think that the points you raise re leather, particularly in relation to whether its utility or luxury, are very interesting. i'm pretty sure poell sees it as the former but the fact is that its costs a shit load of money to make and manufacture a leather product, and certainly also to buy that product, i don't think one can ever get away from the luxury connotation. while he seems to approach clothing in an ultra conceptual way, can it really be looked at as "art" if the price of the product is determined primarily by the cost of making it (materials, processes etc)?

[lotek01]

From the article (which is pretty well-written), it actually seems that CCP is one of the the most backwards thinking designers, in the best way possible. He seems to find a lot of inspiration from very visceral, primitive sources, like his human hair tie, and the experimentation with skins, blood and guts as what kompressorkev has written.

[Faust]

In a way it is fascinating to see that he dwells on such things. I don't know if it's exactly appealing, but certainly fascinating.

[asho]

interesting and thoughtful read kev. personally I'm less concerned with the blood stuff, since I think it's a bit or a singular obsession for him, for whatever - but probably very personal and individually developed - reasons. however i do think that the points you raise re leather, particularly in relation to whether its utility or luxury, are very interesting. i'm pretty sure poell sees it as the former but the fact is that its costs a shit load of money to make and manufacture a leather product, and certainly also to buy that product, i don't think one can ever get away from the luxury connotation. while he seems to approach clothing in an ultra conceptual way, can it really be looked at as "art" if the price of the product is determined primarily by the cost of making it (materials, processes etc)?

I would tend to think no, and i like it that way. Some things should be kept separate, I have a real problem with the over-merging of things at the moment. I think it can really water down the impact of something within its own context by labelling it art. Amongst clothing designers Poell is so far ahead of the pack, but in the art world he would not occupy such an elevated position.

...also i strongly doubt that the horses who have sacrificed their asses for poell's cordovan were eaten.

[Faust]

I would tend to think no, and i like it that way. Some things should be kept separate, I have a real problem with the over-merging of things at the moment. I think it can really water down the impact of something within its own context by labelling it art. Amongst clothing designers Poell is so far ahead of the pack, but in the art world he would not occupy such an elevated position.

...also i strongly doubt that the horses who have sacrificed their asses for poell's cordovan were eaten.

Fashion > contemporary art.

[philip nod]

there are some unwearable scuptural pieces that extend and enhance his vision. I believe they are at lift now. they give nauman (carols closest artworld parallel) a run for his money.

if carol really wanted to focus solely on art he surely would be quickly embraced -- simply put, curators love clothes, history, and bold statements.

[Aleks]

Fashion > contemporary art.

I agree wholeheartedly.

[maldoror]

lulz.

writing > cooking.

[Aleks]

sz > superfuture

[Fuuma]

there are some unwearable scuptural pieces that extend and enhance his vision. I believe they are at lift now. they give nauman (carols closest artworld parallel) a run for his money.

if carol really wanted to focus solely on art he surely would be quickly embraced -- simply put, curators love clothes, history, and bold statements.

All he has to do is throw an overlock jacket in a corner and put it in a gallery. I hear it works....