Carol Christian Poell

[YoungM]

That's cool stuff.

Personally, I find strong pagoda shoulders a little bit too jolting, but CCP does them remarkably well. Adds a certain element of masculinity to his suits.

Also, I'd love to see a picture of those sock boots. One of the most bizzarely awesome concepts ever.

[BSR]

That's cool stuff.

Personally, I find strong pagoda shoulders a little bit too jolting, but CCP does them remarkably well. Adds a certain element of masculinity to his suits.

I would say the opposite, pagoda shoulders are rather a feature of women's jackets to my knowledge.

[Oh weh mir]

^I agree, at least in some instances. When taken to far it appears to be more like overcompensation for lack of a better term. I think when done with subtlety it can add a certain asexual or alien quality to a silhouette, but too extreme and it just makes the wearer look insecure, like a 10 year old boy wearing his father's suit. I think there was a discussion further back in this thread about carol's designs playing off of people's insecurities or something to that effect, and that being one of the intriguing elements in his work. I don't know, maybe I'm not remember things too clearly (very tired right now). Either way, yeah, I find pagoda shoulders are usually pretty feminizing. They remind me of women's suits in the 1980's.

[YoungM]

Ha, oh well.

Personally, a subtle pagoda shoulder seems to emphasize the breadth of the shoulders. Hence, masculinity. I guess this is most in regards to the sloping, shoulder hugging cut that is often popular now. I do agree that a strong pagoda shoulder does seem feminine.

[cabl3]

I like the ideas presented regarding the pagoda shoulders. I'd say that it only looks ridiculous and has a potential for effeminizing one when the strength of the pagoda reaches power ranger armor status. Maybe the excessive shoulder padding of women's power suits in the 80's and 90's have a hand in its perception.

Suffices to say that in Carol's suits, its pretty subdued enough to actually add a touch of "manliness" to the entire figure if you will.
While his clothes are often scattered with playing into one's sense of fear or insecurities, I think his suits have the exact opposite effect. I'd imagine almost anyone would feel like a million bucks in a CCP suit.

[dolochov]

While his clothes are often scattered with playing into one's sense of fear or insecurities, I think his suits have the exact opposite effect. I'd imagine almost anyone would feel like a million bucks in a CCP suit.

Very interesting point you've made. His leather jackets would be another exception then, especially if you think about the fencing jacket with its super thick leather and the cut that creates a very masculine silhouette so that the whole piece looks like an armor.

[lowrey]

well, most of his leather jackets are very thick and sturdy, the fencing jacket is borderline discreet compared to the current season gloved jacket or the joint neck one

[Faust]

well, most of his leather jackets are very thick and sturdy, the fencing jacket is borderline discreet compared to the current season gloved jacket or the joint neck one

Jude called.

[Oh weh mir]

I think the some of leather jackets are just as sadistic in design as the feminizing suits (which I find to be more emasculating in the sense that you're really only masquerading as a man). But I like his suits very much, and cannot say this for other designers who have used similar structures in the past. A pristine exterior held together with rotting tape and glue, a perfectly well fitted pair of pants, with it's seams bursting open, a shiny new watch that doesn't work and cannot be fixed, or independently jointed clothing that limits your movement; all imply different things about the wearer, though with the leather jackets I'm not entirely sure what. Just the same, different people bring out different aspects of the garments. Granted that holds true for most garments from most designers.
Demeulemeester - an 18th century equestrian/I'm a pirate
Julius - a 23rd century militia member
Rick Owens - my fursona is an elephant/a leather bound eggplant
But the qualities ccp brings out in the wearer seem much more personal, as though he's not even present in the clothing and it truly belongs to the wearer in a way that is fairly unique in fashion. I'm probably just talking out of my ass but it's what I get out of it.

I was going to post this a few hours ago and got interrupted by a problem involving a high pressure oil pump cover. upon re-reading, I'm not so sure if what I said holds any water, because it could just be an issue of separating personal identity, consumer identity, and the designer's identity. Because ccp's identity is so closely guarded it allows the consumer to feel that less has already been attached to the garment. Regardless, if designers attempt to share with the wearer who they are, either rick owens is the leather bound eggplant, or the leather bound eggplant is you.

[Enaml]

Rick Owens - my fursona is an elephant/a leather bound eggplant

Sig'd

[dolochov]

I'm probably just talking out of my ass but it's what I get out of it.

Absolutely not, I think this was a well thought out post. As you said, it is very hard to distill carol's vision/aesthetic down to a couple of adjectives because it seems to consist of so many antagonisms that his actual garnments attain their "sense" through the connection with the wearer.

[kollaps]

Went to l'eclaireur the day before yesterday and saw CCP in the flesh for the first time. Just spend a good time reading this thread and the first few posts I read (by oh weh mir and dolochov etc.) reflected the exact thoughts I had when I tried it on.

Oh, the magic of CCP..
Guess it's too late and me and my already famished wallet are going to have to prepare for yet again a fair amount of time living on an empty stomach.

[image]

Joint neck? Where? Any pictures of it online?

well, most of his leather jackets are very thick and sturdy, the fencing jacket is borderline discreet compared to the current season gloved jacket or the joint neck one

[coup de grace]

fw07

[munch]

is that the same one that was made in kangaroo and was like 10k$?