Carol Christian Poell

[rider]

a softer side...

[BSR]

FW06 overlock

[crouka]

coil is available in horse too and cuba in cordovan.
there is a version whose weave pattern changes more stagelessly like cvt. that is the fabric that was made reference to.

[Spencer]

FW06 overlock

Word BSR.

[fenrost]

porn

[unwashed]

^ nice! what is it? Looks like a roll of selvedge fabric

[Peasant]

[MikeN]

I was under the impression that it's the very end of the cordovan, where the "ass" skin is meeting the rest of the horse.

[snafu]

yes thats correct, carol doesn't actually do anything to the leather; as in treatment. It is simply that certain area of the hide.

[BSR]

^ nice! what is it? Looks like a roll of selvedge fabric

yeah it's selvedge

by the way i'd like to know your feelings about the selvedge pieces, fenrost and duncan, i've been a bit disappointed myself, true the sartorial performance is here, but i don't think it translates into a special or interesting design, the suit i've tried was more like a denim suit, less formal than the regular ccp suits, but i have to admit it was not my size , and the long itchy wool coat did not fit anyone well (tagged as a 48, was more like a 50/52 at least, super long with large shoulders...)

[fenrost]

by the way i'd like to know your feelings about the selvedge pieces, fenrost and duncan, i've been a bit disappointed myself, true the sartorial performance is here, but i don't think it translates into a special or interesting design, the suit i've tried was more like a denim suit, less formal than the regular ccp suits, but i have to admit it was not my size , and the long itchy wool coat did not fit anyone well (tagged as a 48, was more like a 50/52 at least, super long with large shoulders...)

thats why imo, duncan's wrap coat are one of the highlight of the 09s - very evident that the selvedge technique comes first before aesthetic. (his take on retaining the edge as much as possible without compromising the body - thus, a simplistic construction that results a poell aesthetic). but i have seen this pieces worn, they are fantastic with the right body.

my appreciation of selvedge pieces are, aside the evolution of concept and technique, it's that ccp's selvedge fabrics are unusually more interesting, again, fabrics are all very personal thing.

i actually have more to say about the fabrics, but i will just summarize - i love the red stripes..

*edit nvm, morning hangover.

[Faust]

BSR, I agree with you about the selvege pieces.

[fenrost]

well, the selvedge program is actually quite huge, so i think it's abit shallow to conclude what a selvedge fabric/garment fitting just like that. there are actually so many choices in terms of the fabric, and obviously few sizes that can be made, yes the male pieces do run very boxy especially on the outerwear, which i find myself sizing down to balance. fe-male pieces do work nicely if tts, they were cut slimmer.

the one i posted is actually a selvedge buttoned shirt, easy to wear, nothing poell that overwhelms, just some red lines at the collar, buttons and sleeves.

to me, selvedge is expensive idea only ccp is mad enough to undertake and actually think it will sell.followed by the success of invisible/taped/glued/chain seam, selvedge seam is meant to be another break through within the boundary of traditional menswear tailoring.But instead of playing with the visual design, selvedge is more of a challenge for the master tailor, where the focus was on the fabric manipulation and complex pattern cutting. steaming the fabric to form a curve along the selvedge line, fitting perfectly to the pattern pieces. it is about working in the these constrains, and the results are very very subtle, which i think was the intention of ccp. eliminate the noise, focusing on what is the purest form. almost a selfish idea, in a way, as the most exciting part are in the process of making, not to the wearer.

agree.

i like to highlight as well runner's description of the selvedge technique as "going back to the source/origin for answers of unraveling edge. "

fe-male are more interesting as it is a continuation and redevelopment from the male (the fe-male were showed seperately from the male), aside classic pieces, like blazers, coats, shirts with selvedge technique, there are certainly several garments were produced from working on the edge of fabric itself, trying to retain the selvedge as much as possible, which i suppose continue to mute more noises in terms of constructions. like the built-in scarf coat (male and fe-male), to the wrap coat/ long shirt (fe-male), etc, very simple constructed, also the 09 belting system- the detachable button selvedge belt loops from exploring the technique.

to elaborate my earlier post, what draws me to selvedge pieces, are definitely the fabrics... example there were 3 version of 100% cotton in selvedge fabric.. (of/yo/on-edge). all different texture, weight and feel. there are something about them i cannot describe that makes them very humane and exciting at the same time... an insider told me they develop everything up to the yarns, safe to say that they are heavily involved in the production of - exploring and experimenting, with the old-style looms to produce these many variety of selvedge fabrics -> they are certainly not your next door fabric you can find easily in shops/market.

[asho]

can any of this be illustrated with examples?

[fenrost]

actually there are some pics of the selvedge pieces in this thread/tfs.

they are at the background or on the ground.

will compile.. maybe some other time. or someone else can.