Carol Christian Poell

[Patroklus]

What goes for pricing, I don't know the cost for this particular jacket but the selvedge pieces were for the most part notably pricier than the "regular" garments, so I assume it has to do with the more expensive material, less effective use of it and the amount of labour involved. I'm pretty sure some of the fabrics are made for him and customized, which probably brings up the cost. Actually now that I think of it, there was a jacket similar to the denim one where both the collar and hemline were selvedge, so the fabric was very narrow and presumably custom made? Maybe a fabrics fabrics expert can chime in on this.

Anyway, I meant to type quality and not price. It's entirely possible than CCP's selvedged pieces are made with the same fabrics he uses anyway, or with more special fabrics, or with less special fabrics.

Looking at the price of a fabric can be sort of misleading. For very expensive and exclusive garments I doubt whether the fabric costs too much or too little isn't a consideration so much as whether or not it's the right fabric for the piece. How much fabric the selvedged pieces consume and how much that fabric costs probably has very little to do with the price he sells them for. He charges more for them because you can't get them anywhere else and so you will pay more if you really want to own them.

[lowrey]

if you read my whole post, I said more expensive, because it was most likely custom made for him. The same selvedge material appeared in various widths depending on the garment it was used for.

[Patroklus]

Are there any pictures of that particular selvedge piece? I've only seen some coats that were cut & sewn.

[lowrey]

I don't think so, but the jacket I mentioned is the exact same cut as the denim one, single piece body with the hem and collarline both selvedge (in addition to pocket edges etc also made from the edge). then there is a longer version of the same piece with the same details, again the body being a single piece, requiring a different fabric width.

[Patroklus]

Well, even if the entire garment is constructed from one cut of fabric he's going to have to sew it together somewhere, and anywhere he does that is a place where he can remove length. That seems more likely than ordering special width of fabric, and it also seems more impressive to me from a design standpoint. I'd like to see the garment though, because I think we might be miscommunicating what it actually is.

[lowrey]

like I said, the body is a single piece of fabric from top to bottom. there are no horizontal seams. its similar to the denim jacket:


selvedge shown in red / third line represents length of the longer jacket with same construction

...except that in the denim jacket the hemline seems to be a seperate piece. in the selvedge version there is no seamwork here either, its just the edge of the fabric on the top and bottom. for the longer version, the same fabric is just wider to match the length of the jacket.

there are other examples where the fabric width is utilized similarly, this is just one that I happen to remember.

[AKA*NYC]

i think i finally get it after this latest diagram. thanks a!

[lowrey]

I should've comissioned Christian to do a diagram right away

[Aleks]

In school we're always told not to cut it on the cross grain , like that jacket there, always the opposite way, or the bias. I assume that this idea may emphasize that. Cutting this method leads to inaccurate seams, and the fabric falling completely differently. This may in fact be a hint as to the reason why there are no body panels.

[AENAON]

CCP and his relationship with horses is indeed something special

Catherine's the Great's also..

[Patroklus]

like I said, the body is a single piece of fabric from top to bottom. there are no horizontal seams. its similar to the denim jacket:

[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/122233l.jpg[IMG]
selvedge shown in red / third line represents length of the longer jacket with same construction

...except that in the denim jacket the hemline seems to be a seperate piece. in the selvedge version there is no seamwork here either, its just the edge of the fabric on the top and bottom. for the longer version, the same fabric is just wider to match the length of the jacket.

there are other examples where the fabric width is utilized similarly, this is just one that I happen to remember.

I was picturing a different garment. I don't know if he would have special ordered fabrics for that or just made them with existing widths.

In school we're always told not to cut it on the cross grain , like that jacket there, always the opposite way, or the bias. I assume that this idea may emphasize that. Cutting this method leads to inaccurate seams, and the fabric falling completely differently. This may in fact be a hint as to the reason why there are no body panels.

I don't think that's quite right. We were never told NOT to cut it on the cross-grain, only that garments generally are not cut on the cross grain and that unusual things will happen if we do cut them that way. Art students of any sort need to be encouraged to do bizarre, possibly pointless things with their medium.

[Aleks]

I was picturing a different garment. I don't know if he would have special ordered fabrics for that or just made them with existing widths.



I don't think that's quite right. We were never told NOT to cut it on the cross-grain, only that garments generally are not cut on the cross grain and that unusual things will happen if we do cut them that way. Art students of any sort need to be encouraged to do bizarre, possibly pointless things with their medium.

Welll, while having discussions with teachers they most often do not advise it unless it's necessary for the concept (like that jacket). not all schools are art schools, amd say if you got hired by a large mass produced produced company and you cut your pattern pieces on the cross grain i would assume that they wouldn't be too impressed

[Patroklus]

But you're a designer working with an artistic medium, which is fabric. You don't have to approach all of your work as a commercial endeavor.

[holger]

[interest1]

Does anyone has CCP leather jackets? . . .

CCP, no. cheezburgers, yes.