Collateral Concepts: Discontinuity

[Scander]

^ I definitely have and looked into it quite deeply with some testing as well.

The issue to some extent is that doing a jacket with components such as interface and horsehair canvas do not do well with long soaks and high temp water boiling. You'll get interface separation all over the place.

At the same time, the % wool/cotton shrinkage is going to be a bit tricky with the warp and weft (affecting pattern construction and cutting the fabric as well).

I don't think PH jackets are actually boiled after construction. At most, they are wetted and crumpled to dry and then the buttons/button backings are sewn on. To get that "shrunken" look with the shell being slightly oversized when compared to the lining is pretty easy as you just adjust the outer patterns a bit. I explored this with the boiled wool blazer as you can see there is some rumpling/bunching above the rear vent and at the cuff end.

I also do not want to tread into PH territory as well and would like to keep my work distinct as much as possible. Another reason I didn't deeply pursue that avenue/look :)

Yes, sure. I agree with what are you saying, expecially in the end of the post. Me too I try only to understand some process to use them in a different way.
About the adjust of the pattern I thought of that, nice to see you have done it with that blazer, it achieve a nice effect!

Thank you for the answer, is nice to talk with you. :)

[Chinorlz]

always a pleasure to talk about construction techniques and design approach :)

[Prototypes]

Always inspiring to see and hear about your design process!

The pockets are growing on me as i find it really practical to hold small items in it. Would you be expanding this series with summer friendly fabrics?

[Chinorlz]

The project plan is to construct small editions with this cut in a specific set of fabric combinations. The 1st edition will be the black cotton/linen shell with a dark green cotton lining with options of double, single or non-vent backs.

As I continue to do fabric research, further editions will be offered in the same cut, but in different fabric combinations and I can certainly focus on research in lighter weight fabrics that would be more trans-seasonal. I've been studying some interesting materials such as pineapple fibers (pina) and others that are really interesting!

[Chinorlz]

Grained & Scarred Cowhide & Buffalo Pack


















Due to my schedule, I've continued to just develop one piece/project at a time and will present it as they are completed.

This is the single-piece construction grained and scarred cowhide & buffalo backpack that was recently finished after a number of pattern refinements.

The body of the bag is a single, precision cut piece of leather consisting of two pockets. The flap is a flat pocket and the main compartment has the same height and width, but is expandable and is deeper at the base.

The flap is first punched by hand and then sewn with needle and thread by hand using waxed thread to create the zig zag style pattern.

Handmade silver hardware in the form of hooks and loops were made and then stitched in place to serve as a way to secure the flap down if desired.

The straps are made of hand-cut water buffalo that have been edged and finished. Holes were then punched by hand and waxed thread sewn to secure the handmade silver double rectangular links for strap adjustment as well as to attach the straps to the body of the bag. Attachment points are reinforced with cross-panels of water buffalo on the interior of the bag and a panel of stiff leather maintains structure of the base of the main bag compartment. This is secured in place with two silver "staples" that also serve as contact points with the ground when the bag is set down.

Dimensions:

Height- 15"
Width (at top)- 10"
Width (at bottom)- 12"
Depth- 5"

[Chinorlz]

Images of the completed black w/dark green lining blazers to be posted this weekend.

Two more are in the works with one using beautiful Japanese handmade stiff cotton fabric dyed with persimmon juice, and the other a worsted black/brown english wool.

A couple of suits done in the black cotton-linen fabric are also in the works.

[Chinorlz]

3 Button Cotton/Linen Exterior w/ Dark Green Cotton Lining Jackets

[Chinorlz]

Double Vent Back



Double Vent Back



Single Vent Back



Single Vent Back



Unvented Back










Continued exploration into the design and construction of jackets.

Three jackets were constructed with the only variation being the back vent style (Nonvented, Single Vented, Double Vented).

This required changes to the patterns to create each of these styles even though at first look, the backs look the same.

Lovely black cotton/linen blend shell with a dark green lightly patterned cotton lining.

All buttons used (including the smaller backing buttons) are 100% horn.

Jackets are half canvassed with some of the canvassing crossing from front to back over the top of the shoulder to provide just enough structure, while keeping the jacket "soft" and allowing it to be paired and worn with a basic tee or with a button up shirt.

The crossing seam at the rear shoulder has been lined up perfectly to cross from the upper back down through the arm seam.

A single button closes the cuffs on both sides, and all buttonholes were constructed in two stages with the final dense, heavy stitchwork being done completely by hand with silk thread and needle.

The 3 button front was spaced and designed to allow the wearer to have a range of combinations (as seen in the first several images) without looking unbalanced.

The texture of the fabrics, the cut and the materials overall were carefully chose to balance formal/informal without leaning too far one way or another.

[Chinorlz]

Hand Loomed Japanese Kakishibu Persimmon Dyed Jacket















A continuation of fabric study and exploration with the 3 button jacket pattern as the base.

The focus for this jacket is Japanese hand-loomed stiff and lightweight kakishibu cotton. This fabric is first created and then traditionally dyed with persimmon juice. An incredibly time consuming production method and so the fabric is made only in short, small runs and as such, is rare and incredibly expensive.

The fibers used for the fabric take up the dye in a very specific way creating an inherent pattern with deep blacks and shades of brown/orange. The result is a color tonal range that matches a monochromatic wardrobe well.

By nature of the dye method, the fabric will darken with time (similar to traditional Japanese indigo dye) allowing the jacket to evolve with wear. As the fabric is a slightly stiffer and crisper cotton, it will also change and conform to the wearer with time.

Fully lined in organic black cotton and with beautiful black buffalo horn buttons. All buttonholes hand sewn with needle and thread.

Edition of One

Size. 50 (20.5" chest)

[Chinorlz]

In collaboration with my good friend Peter Nguyen, we have released a 1-day-available shirt:





The graphic is based on a photo I took at the Alhambra nearly 5 years ago that I post-processed, rendering it as abstract fractals.

The title is Geometría

One of my longtime favorites. The collaboration allows Peter to use his high resolution direct-to-fabric print capability to create the fine, complex details of the graphic on the shirt in a way that silkscreening just couldn't do.

www.leonnyc.com

[zen dog]

Always enjoys your research, Albert. The persimmon dyed jacket caught my eye. I've been buying old Japanese sake bags (soaked in persimmon) figuring I'll get to making a coat or pair of pants out of them one day.

I hope you continue in that line.I'd like to see where you go- maybe keeping some of that darkening, stiffening material around to find a complementary form? Is the basically unchanging jacket a constant to observe the changing behavior of color and material? Looking forward to see where you go.

[Chinorlz]

Always enjoys your research, Albert. The persimmon dyed jacket caught my eye. I've been buying old Japanese sake bags (soaked in persimmon) figuring I'll get to making a coat or pair of pants out of them one day.

I hope you continue in that line.I'd like to see where you go- maybe keeping some of that darkening, stiffening material around to find a complementary form? Is the basically unchanging jacket a constant to observe the changing behavior of color and material? Looking forward to see where you go.

Super cool! I've looked at those sake bags before during my materials research and they've really captivated me. Same goes for the old Japanese mosquito nets and just the "lunch" pouches with the built-in drawstrings. I've mulled them over many times, but haven't thought of something to do with them.

In regards to the jacket, that is exactly it. Up to this point, I've always developed a collection and a range of items. As my personal "uniform" refines and matures, I'm drawn more to shapes and structures that are essentially the same throughout. Thus, creating a silhouette that serves as the uniform.

Creating a jacket cut and design that allows for versatility in wear and social situations (and a complementary pair of pants that will be done very soon to complete a suit) allows me to then focus on materials and go deeper into that realm of exploration. My personal goal would be to have several sets of suits that I've created for myself along with long/short jackets where the construction is the same, but the materials each have their own story.

Hope to see some of your work and ideas in the near future as well!

[zen dog]

^ I admire your ambition and envy your energy level!

Constructing something- be it a table, chair, coat, gym bag,etc,makes one appreciate the balance needed for an object to visually work and give one pleasure in interacting with it. Not just making a coat but having a hand in the treatment of the fabric must make an incredibly rich experience for you, not to mention seeing clothing in another dimension not available to most of us.

I made a gym bag- dyed the leather, set the rivets and handmade the grommets. Decisions every step of the way- color, proportions, size and spacing of the rivets and grommets, internal pockets. Right now I'm working on the practical and adding to my "tool kit". When I go beyond that I'll be happy to share.

[Chinorlz]

Taiwan Hakka Fabric Slim Cut Suit

[Chinorlz]

During my recent trip to Taiwan, I sourced out some beautiful, microproduction locally made fabrics. The local Hakka tribes produce some traditional fabrics that usually have bright floral prints on them, but this beautiful, heavily embroidered double-layer cotton fabric absolutely captivated me. Carrying through the traditional designs and Hakka style, but reinterpreted as a black-on-black embroidery that from a distance looks like textured, rich black fabric. The lining is a naturally dyed cotton that has a beautiful shadow texture and pattern to it.

Jacket and pants are made of the same fabric combinations and pants are lined to the knee. All hem edges (lining and outer hem) of the pants utilize the natural selvedge of the fabric. If desired, they can be hemmed up for a more traditional finish. Slim cut, slightly tapered, single piece construction for each leg. Full button fly closure with each buttonhole sewn by hand with needle and thread. All buttons are custom black horn with matched smaller backing buttons.

The jacket was done with a 4 button closure and when buttoned all the way up is reminiscent of more traditional Chinese jackets with a mandarin-esque collar. The collar and lapels can be worn folded down for a more western blazer styling or up for a silhouette change or for colder weather. The jacket is also half canvassed.

The idea is to have a suit that pulls inspiration and formal construction both from the East and the West, while at the same time, the fabrics echo this as well.

Belt loops were cut from the selvedge fabric to ensure tonal matching but eliminating the embroidery from the loops to decrease material thickness.

Edition of Three


This suit pattern that I have developed will be part of the upcoming Collateral Suiting series that I have been working on and independent of the 5th Iteration (presentation here)