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"To articulate what is past does not mean to recognize 'how it really was.'
It means to take control of a memory, as it flashes in a moment of danger."
-Walter Benjamin. Thesis VI, Theses on the Philosophy of History My rarities and quotidian garments for sale thread. My tumblr and eBay page.
Word on the street is that Altieri has shown the next evolution of his work.
Of course photos are not going to be seen in public since I doubt he allowed any but I would venture to guess that the work has continued to develop the ideas experimented with during Intervallo, through Avantindietro which for a large part continue the one-piece/bare minimum number of pieces construction ideas of Linea.
The gentle adjustments to the 1st generation Avantindietro footwear design made for the Av_Field and the changes made to the Layer-0 footwear design to gravitate closer to what classic CDiem footwear was is interesting as I can visualize this as a directional change for Alessio (early Layer-0 is cringe-worthy compared to where it is now) towards what CDiem/LMaltieri was and the Av-Field as an evolution of what Avantindietro footwear was.
Avantindietro footwear's original focus to me was on the construction and served as a testing ground for pushing the limits of truly minimalist construction; not only paring down the number of components to the footwear but also to how thin can you make everything while keeping it structurally sound. There is some "backpedaling" seen with the re-thickening of the sole and the minor changes to the uppers and to me most notably the new emphasis on the materials used which I felt was not as emphasized in the original series of Avantindietro.
Av_Field is sort of a new/old to me. Buried leathers (harkening Sartoria/Linea), new footwear design techniques, yet with the spiral laces. The shoe casings to me were almost more intriguing than the footwear itself. A casing that laces on the sides and splits mid-foot... as if the shoe were a foot and the casing the shoe. With the real foot within the shoe within the canvas/papier mache, there is some potential to evolve this into treating footwear in layers with different components serving different purposes.
I know some of this has been touched on before, just some more thoughts on the evolution of Maurizio's work.
The leather & steel hammock chair that MBD posted is a beautiful work that first captured my attention in the old old X12 scans. The base is adjustable. I can't recall the exact number of these that were produced but I think it's 12 or less and this is the only one that i've ever seen made available for purchase. In a perfect world, I'd have this, the giant frozen CCP glove and Squartter :)
To keep this thread going, here are a few Linea memories that I have. Two Japanese fabrics cut for head/face wraps and scarves for a photo shoot and a handmade tooled silver C ring also for a Linea presentation photo shoot:
Fabric/Scarf 1
Fabric/Scarf 2
Detail of Fabric/Scarf 2
I will take some photographs of my Intervallo pants tomorrow. A very long post on the approach to construction and the evolution of the ideas into Avantindietro designs is an interesting one. From a patternwork perspective, this example of Intervallo is absolutely crazy. It is no wonder that since Cdiem, the garment side of Maurizio's work has been very difficult to come by.... it's by far the most time consuming in terms of construction with all the anchor point stitching, spiralling patterns etc.
I was under the impression that memorie never saw daylight, perhaps this is something else or another iteration
"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
I was under the impression that memorie never saw daylight, perhaps this is something else or another iteration
May be a combination of the two with the truly new work as yet not named and memoria being the brought back Linea work.
It will definitely be interesting to see the distribution/production/availability of this (or any) of the upcoming work from Altieri given the track record of Avantindietro/Intervallo. With the new work likely being very labor intensive given the continuum and implementation of techniques we've seen in Avantindietro etc, issues such as sizing (the patternmakers must have regular aneurysms) and in general construction will likely affect how easy it will be to acquire the final products.
<...>From a patternwork perspective, this example of Intervallo is absolutely crazy. It is no wonder that since Cdiem, the garment side of Maurizio's work has been very difficult to come by.... it's by far the most time consuming in terms of construction with all the anchor point stitching, spiralling patterns etc.
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