Rick Owens

[Servo2000]

Rather an absurd pre-requisite of a winter jacket that would be.

[Ivans On High]

I think that the Drac coat is a good compromise. Not as striking as the Dom jacket, but at least it looks good closed. The styling in the RO NYC gallery through me a little, but the pic on Komakino sealed it. I think if you opted for a smaller size the fit would look great.

Here is a giant pic for you all. We all know pics make threads better.

[kbi]

I honestly don't feel any rick tailoring pieces at all.. for me rick is more about the "fuck it up/wear it hard.. grunge blabla" His tailoring somehow doesn't fit in and also isn't really comparable to the sharpness of a CCP coat i.e.

[Johnny]

^ this is true. his tailoring looks awful. unflaterring and ill-conceived. his aw show looks great, but the more i look at it the more i realise that it's mostly just costume. the clothes look designed for the show - for the presentation - and not for the consumer. still there's the each-season-incrementally-more-expensive tees and leathers to make things tick over.

[lowrey]

I'm not a fan of these coats as the lapels are way too much for my taste, but imo Rick has done at least some awesome tailored pieces as well, including the picquet trench from ss09 which was redone this fall.

[Venus in Furs]

I'm not a fan of these coats as the lapels are way too much for my taste, but imo Rick has done at least some awesome tailored pieces as well, including the picquet trench from ss09 which was redone this fall.

The tailoring on the piquet trench is great. I'm not really into the bell shape coats and jackets from this winter, but Rick has done some very well tailored pieces in the past.

[beardown]

I honestly don't feel any rick tailoring pieces at all.. for me rick is more about the "fuck it up/wear it hard.. grunge blabla" His tailoring somehow doesn't fit in and also isn't really comparable to the sharpness of a CCP coat i.e.

Agreed. Rick is at his strongest when he creates the oversized silhouette and drapey aesthetic. Undoubtedly, he knows how to piece fabric together to create interesting shapes, I just don't think he's an expert at putting it together to fit the human body in a way that expert tailors can.
In other words, I see the structure of pieces he puts together and undoubtedly those are made well and the forms are usually amazing. But the translation from an interesting shape of a garment to it fitting on the human body properly creates issues sometimes.

I think one of the most obvious evidence of this is the horrible size inconsistencies within the line, which I'd imagine a great tailor would be able to eliminate.

You would think that someone who got his start as a pattern maker would be a stickler about sizing consistency and this is not the case.

[andrewislasorad]

I don't think the failure is that he is unable to successfully tailor garments, but more that the nature of the cuts and shapes of the jackets and coats work on a very limited body type.

I do agree at times many of his coats do suffer a bit from the costume element, at least in regards to functionality. A heavy winter coat that can only be closed with a single button which leaves your neck and body totally exposed [a problem I have with my wide neck exploder coat].

And regarding size inconsistencies, I feel early seasons did suffer a bit, and occasionally certain washes of denim and leathers ended up tighter than expect. But my experience with Strutter and the current Crust is that these sizing issues have all but disappeared.

[philip nod]

i think the sizing issues might be more crazy with sizes larger than S. i haven't really had any problems with anything, but have noticed that certain jackets, etc. fit differently within a size, and perhaps that can be seen as an inconsistency when its really the cut
in fairness to rick, the above coat has a midsection button and a collarbone button for complete closure.

[beardown]

For me, the sizing problems have been almost exclusively with jeans/trousers. They seem to fluctuate wildly from season to season, but also within the season and between treatments (understandable in some cases due to the treatments some might undergo.)
But the leather jackets are indescribably inconsistent as well...Larges that fit small, smalls that fit large, mediums that fit the same as a small or a large...it's a crap shoot.
I've done some cut and sew pieces (simple ones...jackets without too much articulation or specific tailoring) and I thought it was customary to get patterns cut from a master medium and then have them proportionately cut up for larges and down for smalls, which helps a bit with consistency.
If the smalls in Rick's line are the most consistent, it may be that he produces more numbers of the smalls and therefore starts out with a master small pattern and works his way up more than down in terms of fluctuating sizes.

I'm a novice in terms of all this stuff but it seems that since most of his pieces are made in the same factory that the consistency for sizes would be dead on if the patterns are maintained.

[Faust]

LONDON — When Rick Owens is stuck for fashion inspiration, his first instinct is to turn to Le Corbusier for help — and the late Swiss-French architect never fails to deliver.

“I look at architecture for inspiration. If I’m wondering where to go with a collection, all I need to do is open a Le Corbusier book, and the consistency, the integrity of his work tells me what my next step should be,” said Owens, who’s famous for his dark, dramatic silhouettes and passion for fur.

Le Corbusier has been an inspiration in other ways too. When Owens realized he couldn’t afford to own any works by Le Corbusier — or those by his other 20th-century design idols like Jacques-Emile Ruhlmann, Robert Mallet-Stevens and Eileen Gray — he started making furniture of his own.

“I faked it — I Scotch-taped things together and made cartoon versions, inspired by what I love,” he said in a telephone interview from Paris. Over the years, his very personal furniture collections have blossomed into a design business that’s shown and sold separately from his fashion line. Now he has his first-ever London show, “Evolution,” at Sebastian + Barquet’s gallery here, which runs until the end of September.

The show features Owens’ imposing, raw-edged chairs, sofas, tables and lamps crafted from materials supple and sharp: Antlers, black-and-white marble, shearling and fisher fur.

He calls the antlers on his angular plywood chairs “brutalist crowns,” and said he loves the way their elegance contrasts with the chairs’ crude wooden shapes. Plywood is one of his all-time favorite materials, and a staple, “the washed black leather,” he said, of his furniture collections.

He works in limited runs and tries to keep the collections “raw.” The furniture sells through art galleries rather than through his stores. “It’s 1,000 miles away from a ‘home collection.’ He is a designer who happens to be working in another medium — and coming from an entirely different direction from the fashion,” said Oscar Humphries, who cocurated the show with Rudy F. Weissenberg. “He’s got a clear view of how he thinks people should live, and that’s very inspiring,” said Weissenberg.

The limited edition pieces are for sale, with prices that range from 1,800 pounds, or $2,970, for a wooden bench to 22,000 pounds, or $36,300, for a suede and wood sofa. Owens agrees with the gallerists — he said he doesn’t want the furniture to be viewed as some sort of accessory to his clothing. However, he admits the origins are the same. “It all has to belong to one universe,” he said.

[joey_k]

nice little piece there on the furniture element there.

the boiled wool trench is amazing in person, it also has a wrap belt closure around the waist. i see the costumey element to it but it does work very well on some people.

[Fade to Black]

still there's the each-season-incrementally-more-expensive tees and leathers to make things tick over.

the Dior Homme Jeans Effect. Ahh...the direction luxury goods have been heading in over the past five or so years and onwards...gotta love it.

that said i personally like the askew effect of the tailored pieces, prefer it to the more glunged out stuff and even the leather jackets, to be honest...

[move_ment]

c/o JAK&JIL

[sargon97]

Does Rick do a more relaxed straight leg cut jean anymore? If so anyone know what style / model its called?