Rick Owens

[MetroBulotDodo]

Glass Organelle -

the jacket looks great on you! I'm looking forward to seeing you post elsewhere on the site.

My RO kangaroo leather jacket from '04 has held steady. There aren't many leathers you can stuff into a shopper that hold up, but this one has. Kangaroo leather is known for being both light and strong, so that could be a contributing factor.

MBD

[MetroBulotDodo]

Cross posting something I posted in archives discussion in the hopes of getting more opinions in the dedicated Dick Oven thread...

I posted this jacket in the archives:


Rick Owens Womens 2007 'Exploder' Double Funnel Neck Collar Jacket



Kunk responded with:

^the rick coat you posted was incredible. guess no one can keep it up forever as the current men's and women's collections are leaving me cold.

I responded with the following:

Kunk -

No shit right? After seeing the first Dick Oven deliveries in the stores and prices (every season with every designer is a "welcome to your new price point" moment. jezus) I am finally wishing that he would take a quick break from looking for the new evolutionary stage and make improvements on things that really worked.

I love this jacket because it's really androgynous, but it came out only in the womens line and I don't even think it would fit on a man in its largest sizes. RO revisited the same theme with a slightly padded jacket for men in AW 2009 but without the really structural and technical double funnel collar.

If he reworked this jacket for men and got rid of the velcro in favor of another (also hidden) closure system, adjusted the length, cut it in different fabrics, I think he'd have a classic in the making, which would make more of an impact than what he has done for the entirety of men/SS 2012. (I see this jacket as being more popular with men than women - mine is a size IT 38, and it'd probably fit a young boy better than 99% of women.)

Am wondering if there are thoughts from other RO wearers?

MBD

[Servo2000]

Exploder was a great men's season as well, first season with the classic exploder bomber with the enormous hood. The construction, detailing, ... everything about that piece is just immense and I don't personally think that most of the new stuff lives up to that standard (or the standard of some of the other 'sick as hell' pieces i.e. the one MBD posted) of Exploder. The evolution has been interesting and there have been some great silhouettes and moments but in terms of 'extraordinary ill single pieces' Exploder and maybe a season before and after as well were all so much cooler-on-average than todays stuff (aside maybe from some of the leathers, i'm especially thinking of the stooges, geo and maybe the blistered-neoprene unless I'm getting my timelines wrong).

[jogu]

man that jackets nice as hale like reeealll nice , i noticed hes biting like girls stuff and doin it for the guys lil more frequently also , like some of the limo stuff for guys is like the exact same thing from the girls line from various past seasons . i dont have any prob with that cos i still want it but i dont like how the price now is jacked up for those pieces , like this denim vest i bought from limo ran me like $1300 and then someone pted out to me like dude that was from the girls line a while ago and he showed me the pic and i was liek oh hale no and the price for the girls one was only a few hundred .
idk why not as many ppl arent liking ss12 that much , or maybe thats kinda the impression im gettin but im wrong , i havent tried to count like how many yesses and nos there were in the ss12 thread . me i like it , was just goin thru the runway fits for a bunch of next summers designers and while i didnt think ricks was the best in the end i still was like theres more i want from his collection than even the other collections that i thought were better . ricks stuff is cleaner and i like that , also lil easier for me at least to streetwear and incorp w / other clothes in me wardrobe , i typed way too much here im sleepy already too only like 8pm

[kunk75]

the other issue I have with current collections is that the ornamentation in dustulator and exploder pieces was generally functional aside from the occasional velcro placket while now he seems to just be dressing things up for the sake of it. Maybe there's a fear of not evolving but I don;t see anything save for the tailoring that is improving recently.

Cross posting something I posted in archives discussion in the hopes of getting more opinions in the dedicated Dick Oven thread...

I posted this jacket in the archives:


Rick Owens Womens 2007 'Exploder' Double Funnel Neck Collar Jacket



Kunk responded with:


I responded with the following:



Am wondering if there are thoughts from other RO wearers?

MBD

[Servo2000]

^ blistered neoprene geo also originated with exploder.

There you go. I also think you're definitely right about the nature of an obscure brand versus todays Rick Owens empire - while Rick seems to have stayed extremely true to himself there is a certain sense of boundaries (self-imposed or otherwise) now that may not have been there before and that the walls he's pushing against aren't as tall or as impressively made as they were before. Tangents and explorations feel more contextualized within the 'fashion' system rather than within his own (or perhaps, our own) universe. I wouldn't say that he's strayed like Raf has but they're both going down a similar path (expanding businesses and broader perspectives about the nature of the capital-F Fashion environment) and I think we're seeing the inevitable result on them both.

[upsilonkng]

Not to keep dumping in the same hole but... having just gone to Maxfield's to see the new aw11 stuff I have to say I was less than impressed. Tried the $3000 cashmere cardigan w/ the one side button.. it felt soft but $3000?!? the new leathers looked bad in my book w/ the scuba being $4000+ and it looked like plastic meets rubber and felt like that as well. Nothing close to the hammered lamb of 09 Crust in look and feel and nothing like the aw09 oiled calf. I tried on the new blazers $2k and they were nice but not mindblowing. Overall tried about 10 things on and felt like there was nothing I had to have but sometimes this stuff grows on you. I hope it does. My favorite is still Crust then Stag...

[michael_kard]

Rick Owens jacket from the mid-1990's









Vintage jacket from the mid-1990's
100% Cotton with vinyl trims

Cross-posted in the archives too.

[DamageX]

I love this jacket because it's really androgynous, but it came out only in the womens line and I don't even think it would fit on a man in its largest sizes.

Hi MDB, I believe there was a version for men, I could be wrong but is this it:





I think that he has improved his previous designs in the current collection. I recently tried on the Officer's Shearling. For me, I see it as an evolution of the RU2770 Funnel from Stag. However, he has eliminated the top zipper pockets, which were prone to tearing. The funnel collar now has a narrower profile which is much more functional for the winter as it keeps the warmth in as it is closer to the neck. I'll add a diagram to this later for comparison.

Also, for those with longer hair, the collar is much more comfortable then the funnel collar from Stag since it presses against the back of the neck and allows the hair to fall naturally instead of bunching haha!

That being said, Stag is still my favorite collection.

This is just my personal experience with that jacket.

[DamageX]

To me it is. I like the economic and clean cut. Of course that's just my taste.

The box cut is great for layering and it is cut slim enough so it doesn't look bloated. Out of curiosity Have you tried it on?

I will say that I don't like the way cotton wears and stains in general. I would have preferred leather sleeves but the cotton offers a greater range of motion and the duck down is very soft and comfortable.

I liked it so much that I bought one

I'm going to check the women's version of the Cashmere pod shorts and I'll let you know what differences I find. From the photos they look very similar.

[upsilonkng]

I tried on the men's small and the women's large and they are the same!! this is for those cashmere shorts, same cut etc.. the women's large was much better for me as it was plenty big and the waist was nice and fitted and overall just not quite as long though still too long for me I think. There's a ballon effect w/ these shorts that I'm not wild about but maybe this time next year I'll be all over it.... Eternal if I was you I would go ahead and try the women's large and eventually those will be the ones on sale because I don't know a single girl that would be into that ballon effect.

[upsilonkng]

I think the women's 44 is a large, as far as I've seen that's the biggest size Rick makes for women now.. I could be wrong but it's as big as I've seen which is a us 10..I'm usually a 6 or 8 in women's sizing so I think you could probably get away w/ a 42 or a 44. I actually think I would prefer a different material the cashmere is pretty overrated. And that jacket above I dislike, the new 2 huge pockets w/ the cotton sleeves is just goofy, cotton sleeves on a jacket for over $3k... for me, never.

[DamageX]

I tend to like the jackets that are shorter in length in the body, I believe the length from the bottom of the collar is around 24-25" for the Officer's Shearling. For Crust, I remember the jacket lengths were on average around 28-29" like the Mollino I have. The Stooges jacket I have from Anthem is 21" which I never thought I would see for a Rick Owens jacket. So I am very happy with this. These figures are for size XS.

Do you prefer the jackets that are longer in the body Eternal? Also, when you tried on the Officer's Shearling did you like it?

Here is what I was talking about fit wise:

[asecretmaker]

i think we should have a HOF thread just for DamageX. BRAVO!!

[kunk75]

Damage x always looks great and that shearling still doesn't look good even on him.