Rick Owens

[Shucks]

Now that the humidity has leveled off, it's doable at night. For some reason this version is not as hot as black mineral that I have (without the flap), though it's tighter, like leggins, really. Or is that black mineral and the other one I have is what? I'm confused...

oh it kinda looked like a daytime shot to me....

black mineral is the treatment which is 'sprayed' on. i think it's been done in several fabrics, esp. a light stretch denim. not sure what fabric it was in for memphises tho. item code for stuff in black mineral ends with 'BM'. i have the first memphises in waxed denim/stretch detailing and they are def. not summer gear...

and yes, they are supposed to be semi-legging-ish in fit. they are motocross pants basically.

[ian+]

^ Someone has to shed some light regarding the memphis jeans across the seasons. I read conflicting information about the sizing all the time and I don't know how many different fabrics are there. Also do the FW15 ones have a 19 cm hem? I 've seen photos and they don't look like leggings anymore.

[jskidder1]

memphis jeans have used basically the same denim every season but one. always SBS (black mineral) in some form except Moody when it was "black inside" for whatever reason. i bought a pair every year the first few seasons, and I regretted the black inside season because there was no wax. now that's the only pair i wear. not only is it the only season when the waist and thigh were in harmony, it's the only one that they could pass for regular jeans if needed.

[Shucks]

mine are SBW - W for wax and (i assume) S for stretch denim. it is a much thicker wax/resin than regular black mineral, which is more sprayed on.

[Chinorlz]

memphis jeans have used basically the same denim every season but one. always SBS (black mineral) in some form except Moody when it was "black inside" for whatever reason. i bought a pair every year the first few seasons, and I regretted the black inside season because there was no wax. now that's the only pair i wear. not only is it the only season when the waist and thigh were in harmony, it's the only one that they could pass for regular jeans if needed.

These are great details! Will help me in my constant search for a pair of these that aren't leggings-like :)

Are the item codes different from season to season? (I can't believe I'm asking about item codes now....) Would love to know so if a pair of Moody memphis' come up, I can confirm.

[Shucks]

umm... we are diacussing differences in codes already...?

[Faust]

These are great details! Will help me in my constant search for a pair of these that aren't leggings-like :)

Are the item codes different from season to season? (I can't believe I'm asking about item codes now....) Would love to know so if a pair of Moody memphis' come up, I can confirm.

Ok, I looked at the tags, finally The one I have without the flap is black mineral (ends with SBM), and the one I'm wearing in the photo (waxed) is black scrub (ends with SBS).

I find that the black mineral is a bit looser (the scrubs really feel like leggins) and heavier (though this may just be an impression).

[Chinorlz]

Ok, I looked at the tags, finally The one I have without the flap is black mineral (ends with SBM), and the one I'm wearing in the photo (waxed) is black scrub (ends with SBS).

I find that the black mineral is a bit looser (the scrubs really feel like leggins) and heavier (though this may just be an impression).

Thank you sir! That'll be the end of my item code inquiries!

[Nickefuge]

To bring back the topic of Owenscorp having their garments sewn in Moldavia, here is a screenshot of a woman who works for Olmar & Mirta shedding some light on the situation.

[mikko]

^ that's pretty much what it says on the Made In Moldavia tags (except the part that they brought the people over to Italy to learn the methods) in different words

[DudleyGray]

That's cool, I wish she had discussed more on the labor conditions and wages, though.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

about producing in Moldavia

.
Bullshit.

Excuse me (for cutting in on this thread for Rick), but there is only one reason a company like Olmar & Mirta produce in Moldavia. It is the same reason Moncler and Prada do as well. The average worker's wages in this industry there is 123 euros a month. Hello, that is about 4-5 bucks a day. That's half of what they were getting paid in Romania, where they were before, the saving that has sparked a "migration" of Italian luxury brands to shift their production once more now to Moldavia where they are allowed to still put a "Made in EU" label. But there is even cheaper and even worse, on the edge of Moldavia in Transnistria, which is very likely where Euro Olmar is feeding as well (a super shady "trading zone" where journalists are banned and all payments are made in cash only). If you are not aware of what is going on these days in Italian luxury label production, you need to thoroughly and carefully watch the RAI Report documentary that aired last fall in Italy which has created an uproar in the country, an English transcript text is provided as well. And be aware that when you buy Rick Owens product by O&M that is made in Moldavia, you are financing the global slavery outsourcing system in apparel production which has stripped away Italy's own capacity to produce clothes with their own people down to almost nothing, and been at the forefront of the country's economic downfall where unemployment is now hitting 46 percent among people 30 and under. It may look a little better and may help you feel cooler, but you might as well be buying Primark, H&M, WalMart or Zara in regards to human standard of living values and ethical production. Inform yourselves. If you care. And that includes you, Rick. You can and should do better than this. Stop producing in Moldavia and insist that your producer return the production to Italy where it belongs.

Watch the documentary "Siamo tutti oche (We are all geese)" here on RAI 3 Report with Milena Gabanelli


.

[DudleyGray]

.
Bullshit.

Excuse me (for cutting in on this thread for Rick), but there is only one reason a company like Olmar & Mirta produce in Moldavia. It is the same reason Moncler and Prada do as well. The average worker's wages in this industry there is 123 euros a month. Hello, that is about 4-5 bucks a day. That's half of what they were getting paid in Romania, where they were before, the saving that has sparked a "migration" of Italian luxury brands to shift their production once more now to Moldavia where they are allowed to still put a "Made in EU" label. But there is even cheaper and even worse, on the edge of Moldavia in Transnistria, which is very likely where Euro Olmar is feeding as well (a super shady "trading zone" where journalists are banned and all payments are made in cash only). If you are not aware of what is going on these days in Italian luxury label production, you need to thoroughly and carefully watch the RAI Report documentary that aired last fall in Italy which has created an uproar in the country, an English transcript text is provided as well. And be aware that when you buy Rick Owens product by O&M that is made in Moldavia, you are financing the global slavery outsourcing system in apparel production which has stripped away Italy's own capacity to produce clothes with their own people down to almost nothing, and been at the forefront of the country's economic downfall where unemployment is now hitting 46 percent among people 30 and under. It may look a little better and may help you feel cooler, but you might as well be buying Primark, H&M, WalMart or Zara in regards to human standard of living values and ethical production. Inform yourselves. If you care. And that includes you, Rick. You can and should do better than this. Stop producing in Moldavia and insist that your producer return the production to Italy where it belongs.

Watch the documentary "Siamo tutti oche (We are all geese)" here on RAI 3 Report with Milena Gabanelli


.

Quoting for new page, this post was fucking boss.

[Faust]

Everyone should read the English transcript.

Also started reading Gomorrah and the stuff that the author describes is out of control (literally and figuratively) and definitely falls along the lines of Geoffrey's post.

[newp]

Eye opener.
I really like how theme of ethic of production is raised more and more on SZ (maybe it was before, I just haven't seen it before in my ignorance). This is something everyone to pay attention to right after they think how to be fashionable or stylish: which ways lead to this outcome.

Thank you for this post and your link, Geoffrey.