DEEPTI (Deepti Barth)

[doldrums]

(I didn’t see a DEEPTI thread and figured now a great time to start one for this talented designer whose work I have long appreciated)

Deepti Barth completed her MA in menswear at Central Saint Martins in London in 2005, and from 2005-2012 worked as menswear and womenswear designer for Carol Christian Poell. Her contemporaneous photographic and video work lead to publications in several art magazines and a solo exhibition in Nicosia, Cyprus, in late 2013.
Her installation entitled 'Transgression' is currently shown at Lift Etage,Tokyo.

Her menswear collection D E E P T I °014-015 launched in Paris amalgamates exclusive materials and the research of new techniques.
Pure liquid silver is applied to yarns, which are then woven to create fabrics which oxidise in time with the wearer. A new vulcanising technique is applied to meld clothes which once were seamed. Artisanal meets industrial.

Imagery to follow. For now, pic below and a write up from Le Paradox here

[eleves]

Sounds very cool, definitely interested in seeing where this designer goes and how the brand develops!

[j100000]

Interesting history, I would also like to see where this goes.

[kanne]

• 2013 solo exhibition in Phytorio Gallery and the Office Gallery in Nicosia, Cyprus
• installation entitled 'Transgression' currently on show at Lift Etage,Tokyo

This was the video on the CCP website, no? I remember a discussion in the CCP thread. Found this write up about it: http://leparadox.com/en/art/deepti-barth-transgression

Looking forward to seeing more of her work. Sounds promising.

[ronald_bne]

Does anyone know if Deepti is the so called irreplaceable pattern maker that Carol lost?

[Peasant]

Yeah, but she's been replaced. So yeah..
I saw a little bit of her work. Not really like what I had assumed or partially wished for. Def curious to see what comes of it. DL is stocking it and I think she's based in Berlin. It'll be cool to see what someone from that city creates. We are all products of the world around us.

[Faust]

/\ Agreed. It was a letdown. Oh, well, first collection, etc. I wish her the best - lovely person and undoubtedly talented.

[Irara]

This was the video on the CCP website, no? I remember a discussion in the CCP thread. Found this write up about it: http://leparadox.com/en/art/deepti-barth-transgression

I don't know how to feel about this project, there's too much stuff going on in the photo session: a person in wheelchair who wears clothes that restricts movement is travelling through the buffer zone in Cyprus and is not allowed to enter a part of it. This attempt to put all fruit into one cake seems a bit insincere and the context distracts the viewer from the costume, though I'm not sure if the clothes is important in this story.

[kurta]

DL is stocking it.

H Lorenzo will stock Deepti as well -- members of their staff are quite excited. I haven't had the privilege of seeing her work yet, but am excited. (I'll admit that your assessment threw a little water on that, Faust, but based on the available facts, I'm hopeful for the future.)

[Faust]

I don't know how to feel about this project, there's too much stuff going on in the photo session: a person in wheelchair who wears clothes that restricts movement is travelling through the buffer zone in Cyprus and is not allowed to enter a part of it. This attempt to put all fruit into one cake seems a bit insincere and the context distracts the viewer from the costume, though I'm not sure if the clothes is important in this story.

Restriction and control is a big part of Poell's work, and Deepti wanted to work with that theme.

Kurta, judge for yourself, of course. I have no doubt that Deepti has potential.

[nicelynice]

Checked it out today, thought it was indeed Poell at first glance. The jackets and coats either look a bit uninspired (the double breasted coat) or very reminiscent of CCP, but have nice details and fabrics. The knitwear was the most interesting, a sweater that combined multiple knitting techniques was the standout. Curious to see where she goes from here, but the current season had nothing that particularly blew me away

edit: A bit more impressions from a PM I received, thought I'd share it here as well

Yeah, I did check out the silver bomber and the drop pants, as well.

The silver bomber was absolutely beautiful as a display piece, right in the area between a CCP parka, a Nike reflective running jacket, and a vintage space suit. It also looked a bit on the unwearable side, at least to my tastes.

The drop pants were in a soft, cozy wool with a relaxed thigh tapered to a slim leg, and a double-zip on the fly. They looked immediately more comfortable and inviting than anything I've seen from CCP (I unfortunately didn't try anything on - I knew I wasn't going to be making and purchases and was just happy to see it on display). Out of my rather cursory inspection of the collection, definitely the piece I most see myself wearing.

I don't know how much of the current CCP aesthetic Deepti is responsible for, and it certainly didn't help that I was looking at CCP immediately before checking out her collection, but it's impossible to not view her work in the context of that brand. Like I mentioned, I'm very curious to see where she goes with from here - the fabrics, construction, and details were all amazing, but the clothes themselves either highly reminiscent of things we've seen for a couple years now or seemed more focused on technique rather than "wearability," whatever that might be.

[udbrud]

While not extremely impressed by the photos, I've seen so far - they seem to portray some surprisingly "traditional" garments - I'm very intrigued by the techniques and details she supposedly works with, so really hoping to get a chance to see the items in person - probably once Darklands get them in stock.

[bonejelly]

Looks like Darklands is limiting their buy to in-store only. However, here is a styled preview image from their email.

[TriggerDiscipline]

I saw this collection as well and I agree with Nicelynice, but that wool was hella itchy and there was too much gimmick for me in terms of the use of silver and it's "healing properties" and a bunch of other things on the tag that I felt was unnecessary.


also chant (christian) is the official lookbook model

[dji]

checked out Idol's decent (if very limited) buy yesterday and agree with others that the first collection was a bit of a let down. the tailoring is solid and there are some interesting new techniques though, the woven silver knitwear and the melt fused fabric wrist strap on the peacoat spring to mind in particular.

on a side note the cut of the blazers seems like it runs ridiculously small through the shoulders, seems like a 48 would fit me when I'm typically a 44..