DEEPTI (Deepti Barth)

[zamb]

Also, ashamed, you are still an asshole for saying that this was the only good post on this forum in the last four years.

and to think he himself has made posts here in the same timeframe.
His speech is a condemnation of himself..........LOL

[ashamed]

and to think he himself has made posts here in the same timeframe.
His speech is a condemnation of himself..........LOL

yeah having to explain how to determine the age of a rick jacket is pretty boring tbh ;)

[julian_doe]

yeah having to explain how to determine the age of a rick jacket is pretty boring tbh ;)

Ugh, you are so right.

Try Superfuture, where they stay hip talking about what's new and hot all the time. Who wants to talk about Rick jackets anyway, or have the pleasure of discussing this department of fashion with an awesome journalist and incredible artisan designers anyway?

[ashamed]

how difficult it is for you to understand?
and now you are accusing people of the same issues you are tripping over

No one is saying Deepti's work is not great, you are missing the point.
its very simple, when a designer works for another, it is generally expected that in branching out, the newer designer's work will have similarities to the style and aesthetic choices of his/ her former employer........
As time passes the newer designer is expected to find his own voice and establishes his/ her own identity.

A lot of the tailored stuff from Deepti basically has the same cut a Carols tailored work. nothing wrong with that. the issue is, people are saying the conceptual pieces that would give her her own voice is not as strong or as ground breaking to take her out of CCP's shadow

this will be a hard thing because like him or hate him Carol (through whatever means) has set a very high standard and established a body of work that was and still is exceptional to this day, more than 7 years after his last collection

The fact of the matter is that some designers are hard to top........their shadows loom too large to get away from

I wont really respond to this because everything here has been said in previous posts and i have responded to already

A good example was McQueen, Sarah Burton is good, she was his assistant for many Years and understood him more than most, but she doesn't have Lee's mind

but this is actually such a poor example.

youre comparing the clash to crass, on one hand you have a massive design house owned by Kering with seasonal runway shows that take on hugely differing themes, do i even have to explain why this is a bad example? Carol and Deepti are running comparatively tiny studio operations with not even close to the same sort of economic forces pushing or pulling them and i think its clear that this way of organizing has lead to Carol producing things at a completely different pace, and i think this pace continues with deepti.

and so

if you think that Deeptis work is the sarah burton mcqueen to the lee mcqueen of Carol then i honestly dont know what to say.

but i will continue anyways

these two brands (McQueen/Carol) focus on such different levels and worlds and have such different schedules that it makes no sense to compare them, even purely for use in this specific argument Sarah Burton took over the brand where as Deepti forged her own, there are so many glaring reasons why this is a poor example that its genuinely confusing.

are you judging these designers on the metric of how large fashion houses schedule designs? why? arent they both clearly exactly not that.

and as an extra

a good comparison would be firstly a combination of how a tailor teaches their apprentice exactly how they do things which leads to very similar work being produced later by the apprentice and secondly how you can usually see who an artist worked under in their later work example of Gustav Klimt/Egon Schiele
this is obviously over simplifying things but i think hits the mark to help my point



I'll probably not respond after this since this conversation is becoming very cyclical but again i stand by my previous posts in conveying my view. anyways this was fun, thanks

:-)

[ashamed]

Also, ashamed, you are still an asshole for saying that this was the only good post on this forum in the last four years.

and fine since you helped me make my point, ill admit that it was an exaggeration

[zamb]

I



but this is actually such a poor example.

youre comparing the clash to crass, on one hand you have a massive design house owned by Kering with seasonal runway shows that take on hugely differing themes, do i even have to explain why this is a bad example? Carol and Deepti are running comparatively tiny studio operations with not even close to the same sort of economic forces pushing or pulling them and i think its clear that this way of organizing has lead to Carol producing things at a completely different pace than most others and i think this pace continues with deepti.

and so

if you think that Deeptis work is the sarah burton mcqueen to the lee mcqueen to Carol then i honestly dont know what to say.



these two brands (McQueen/Carol) focus on such different levels and worlds and have such different schedules that it makes no sense to compare them, even purely for use in this specific argument Sarah Burton took over the brand where as Deepti forged her own, there are so many glaring reasons why this is a poor example that its genuinely confusing.

The conversation is becoming cyclical because even in disagreeing you are not seeking to understand the views of others, but to make strawmen and rebut them in order to defend your position......
If you take the other posters argument for what they are expressing you might disagree with them but there is no way to refute, because they are not without merit

Your response to my post shows me that you either have no comprehension of the points I expressed or you refuse to accept them because they dont jive with your view that you want to impose

When I made the example of McQueen/ Burton, it had NOTHING to do with either the size of the company or the resources they have at their disposal.
The comparison has to do with how the MIND of each designer works and from that, the unique expression of their output.
There is a certain sinister Poetry that both Carol and McQueen's has to their Work that both Sarah Burton and Deepti do not have. their MINDS are different and as such their output is expected to be different
There is nothing wrong with that i dont expect two different persons mind to work exactly the same way............but such difference seems to be lost on you.
Anyways, have a good weekend

[Faust]

and fine since you helped me make my point, ill admit that it was an exaggeration

I'm a fair guy ;-)

[julian_doe]

I'm a fair guy ;-)

Faust, out curiosity, do you like Deepti's work?

If so, what do you like about it?

[Faust]

Faust, out curiosity, do you like Deepti's work?

If so, what do you like about it?

I do and I don't. It's complicated. I am in Paris running around, so can't provide an in-depth answer, but will definitely once I am back and decompressed.

[href:90a7]

Darklands just uploaded all their Deepti stock onto their website. Pieces from every season!

https://www.darklandsberlin.com/designer/deepti/

[Faust]

Faust, out curiosity, do you like Deepti's work?

If so, what do you like about it?

Ok, so... I think Deepti's work is a continuation of what she did at Poell, a re-examining of a male wardrobe style of dressing that concentrates on new tailoring methods, including new patterns, details, fabrics, and fabric treatments. In this way it's a success. The problem is, not that many men want to dress like that today - exactly a comment one buyer made who ended up not picking up the collection. I mean, tailoring is truly dead. Ten years ago it was still either Brioni or Saville Row for high power lawyers and bankers or Poell (following Helmut and Margiela) for the art crowd. Now it's Brioni or nothing. So, I think the work is great, but no longer relevant. I think if Deepti channels her energy in the direction of m.a.+ and Taichi Murakami, it would be more relatable.

[julian_doe]

Ok, so... I think Deepti's work is a continuation of what she did at Poell, a re-examining of a male wardrobe style of dressing that concentrates on new tailoring methods, including new patterns, details, fabrics, and fabric treatments. In this way it's a success. The problem is, not that many men want to dress like that today - exactly a comment one buyer made who ended up not picking up the collection. I mean, tailoring is truly dead. Ten years ago it was still either Brioni or Saville Row for high power lawyers and bankers or Poell (following Helmut and Margiela) for the art crowd. Now it's Brioni or nothing. So, I think the work is great, but no longer relevant. I think if Deepti channels her energy in the direction of m.a.+ and Taichi Murakami, it would be more relatable.

Faust, thanking you for taking the time to reply to my question.

I couldn't agree more with what you are saying, I think that tailoring's significance is continuously decreasing both from a utilitarian perspective (I haven't worn a suit to the office in years) to a fashion perspective. I think both Poell and Deepti are the only "outsiders" experimenting with tailoring, mainly Deepti at this point. I am sure that although Poell is no longer designing, he sells far more Dipped Sneakers than long jackets (in my opinion, the most iconic piece Poeel ever produced). If Deepti focused more on street-wear, parkas, and sneakers, her work would certainly have a far larger appeal to the current crowd.

However, at that point, her work would truly have no voice or exclusivity.

She already can only be seen as "Poell's successor", if she just adhered to the current trend among artisanal brands, there would be nothing special about her work.

Cheers, and thanks again.

[href:90a7]

Loving the discussion here. I think it is an interesting point you both make about customers not wanting to dress in suiting now-a-days and the relevance of her tailoring work. It definitely seems like her customer base (i.e. people on this forum and the like) do still enjoy interesting suiting. Paul Harnden and Geoffrey B seem to still be prominent and thriving labels in this scene, as well as Elena Dawson. (I personally don't own much suiting so maybe I'm not one to talk) From a store's perspective, I do see the reason for not purchasing these very expensive garments though, as the general audience may not appreciate them.

I feel like her work is exciting, interesting, and very well made, but there is something a little disappointing about it. She is still very attached to the CCP cult and enigma, which gives her work an inherent expectation in a way. Reading and talking about her pieces is magical, but once you've seen and held a few of the pieces from a collection, you basically have experienced the entirety of the collection. She rides on a couple key textiles or techniques each season that start to feel predictable and almost gimmicky after a couple of encounters.

In short, I think she is in a very weird situation, where she is getting a lot of attention but I don't know if she will ever meet our expectations and hopes. Either way, I do really love her work, and can't wait to see how she develops.

[href:90a7]

Saw some showroom pics from her new collection today. The collection has to do with rust (may be the title but I'm not certain) She is blending steel into the weave of the garments, creating a rigid texture on the fabrics, and then treating the garments so they will show rust spots and stains. Looked like the feature will be present in places like the collars of shirts. Also there was a full pair of pants with it. Chainmail is also another big part of the collection that I saw. There was a tie, and collar of a suit. Hopefully someone will bless us with pictures soon!

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Faust, thanking you for taking the time to reply to my question.

I couldn't agree more with what you are saying, I think that tailoring's significance is continuously decreasing both from a utilitarian perspective (I haven't worn a suit to the office in years) to a fashion perspective. I think both Poell and Deepti are the only "outsiders" experimenting with tailoring, mainly Deepti at this point. I am sure that although Poell is no longer designing, he sells far more Dipped Sneakers than long jackets (in my opinion, the most iconic piece Poeel ever produced). If Deepti focused more on street-wear, parkas, and sneakers, her work would certainly have a far larger appeal to the current crowd.

However, at that point, her work would truly have no voice or exclusivity.

She already can only be seen as "Poell's successor", if she just adhered to the current trend among artisanal brands, there would be nothing special about her work.

Cheers, and thanks again.

Speak for yourselves gentlemen. Perhaps you haven't worn a suit in ten years because you have never seen or worn a good one. Or you are not keeping up with what is going on. Tailoring is far from dead. Our explosive growth over the past decade and who is selling and wearing our clothes is all the proof anyone needs. And I would caution all these assumptions that Deepti is not selling. Deepti is selling and selling well. She is making some very good tailored (yes I said tailored) clothes these days which we are seeing on some of the same people buying our pieces. For your information these are very successful managers, entrepreneurs, lawyers, bankers, doctors, pro athletes, art professionals (artists who make some money doing their art) and many very famous people who we will leave nameless out of discretion... who basically hate the cheap bullshit that the mainstream fashion media and corporate brands and now even you guys are vomiting upon us everywhere you look... and will buy truckloads of exceptional tailored clothing when it is done right and worth the big money that it requires to do it right these days. The problem is not that tailoring is dead, the problem is the non-existence of good tailoring that is still left around anymore. That is not a product issue it is a skill issue. So get it straight. Brioni (bought for 350 million euro and self-destructed by Kering several years ago) and Saville Row have both ruined themselves and Loro Piana (bought by LVMH for 2 billion euro) is on its way to the same destination. But the numbers at Kiton and Zegna will stun you if you know what they are. So let's stop kidding ourselves gentlemen, the people who rule this world and 99 percent of the assets and the money in this cruel world- still wear tailored clothing and suits, lots of them. And in many places where they must be and they must go, you can't operate without it... you see there is a class thing that applies as well (if you are not aware of it). And that's fine with us, and perhaps with Deepti as well. If the rest of the industry wants to keep chasing the streetwear, parka and sneaker business which is fundamentally being driven by the Chinese Z-generation and milllenial marketing scam already on the verge of collapsing, well then, even better. As for us, we can sell every suit and extreme tailored piece of clothing we can make, and the wait list is out to over a year now for what we cannot yet make. If that's your definition of dead, fine... to each his own. Sorry, but I think Deepti is doing a lot better than you think, and doesn't really need the coaching, cheers, Geoffrey