The latter.
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DEEPTI (Deepti Barth)
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Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Let us please solve this cordovan issue once and for all.... Shell Cordovan ONLY comes in small plates approximately 12-15" x 20"
Two plates per horse. It is NOT the skin/surface of the hide, rather a deeper dermal layer that is very dense. ZERO grain, always smooth.
NEVER made into anything larger than footwear or small leather goods. It just isn't possible from an anatomic perspective.
Never never never never will there be a jacket made from shell cordovan.
Cordovan in reference to leathers overall can be damn near whatever the hell the seller/designer wants it to be... almost always from the horse, sometimes from the hindquarters (but NOT the same biological tissue as shell cordovan), and sometimes just loosely used to refer to color of the leather. Pretty much these days, when someone says a jacket is "cordovan leather" I just think "ok, it is horse leather" and that is it.
That is not to say that non-shell cordovan is bad, it is just a completely different product. Literally 1-3 tanneries in the world (Horween in Chicago) being one of them are the only ones that make true shell cordovan. Everyone else is just using horsehide.
Horsehide can be produced in many different thicknesses from super supple to belt-thick. Techniques such as skivving can be used to thin the hide as desired as well.www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs
Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
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Originally posted by Chinorlz View PostLet us please solve this cordovan issue once and for all.... Shell Cordovan ONLY comes in small plates approximately 12-15" x 20"
Two plates per horse. It is NOT the skin/surface of the hide, rather a deeper dermal layer that is very dense. ZERO grain, always smooth.
NEVER made into anything larger than footwear or small leather goods. It just isn't possible from an anatomic perspective.
Never never never never will there be a jacket made from shell cordovan.
Cordovan in reference to leathers overall can be damn near whatever the hell the seller/designer wants it to be... almost always from the horse, sometimes from the hindquarters (but NOT the same biological tissue as shell cordovan), and sometimes just loosely used to refer to color of the leather. Pretty much these days, when someone says a jacket is "cordovan leather" I just think "ok, it is horse leather" and that is it.
That is not to say that non-shell cordovan is bad, it is just a completely different product. Literally 1-3 tanneries in the world (Horween in Chicago) being one of them are the only ones that make true shell cordovan. Everyone else is just using horsehide.
Horsehide can be produced in many different thicknesses from super supple to belt-thick. Techniques such as skivving can be used to thin the hide as desired as well.
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Originally posted by Lohikaarme View PostFWIW I think it's closer to 8 companies doing shell. But yeah, cordovan = horse catch-all sucks.www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs
Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
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Originally posted by Chinorlz View PostLet us please solve this cordovan issue once and for all.... Shell Cordovan ONLY comes in small plates approximately 12-15" x 20"
Two plates per horse. It is NOT the skin/surface of the hide, rather a deeper dermal layer that is very dense. ZERO grain, always smooth.
NEVER made into anything larger than footwear or small leather goods. It just isn't possible from an anatomic perspective.
Never never never never will there be a jacket made from shell cordovan.
Cordovan in reference to leathers overall can be damn near whatever the hell the seller/designer wants it to be... almost always from the horse, sometimes from the hindquarters (but NOT the same biological tissue as shell cordovan), and sometimes just loosely used to refer to color of the leather. Pretty much these days, when someone says a jacket is "cordovan leather" I just think "ok, it is horse leather" and that is it.
That is not to say that non-shell cordovan is bad, it is just a completely different product. Literally 1-3 tanneries in the world (Horween in Chicago) being one of them are the only ones that make true shell cordovan. Everyone else is just using horsehide.
Horsehide can be produced in many different thicknesses from super supple to belt-thick. Techniques such as skivving can be used to thin the hide as desired as well.
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Originally posted by drizzly View Postthis is a great explanation for everyone! appreciate that you wrote this.
Lohikaarme also dropped some knowledge of at least 3-5 other shell cordovan producers so many thanks to him for that additional information. Love learning more each day!www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs
Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
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I'm pretty excited about this collection, the safety glass garnments and "crashed" yarn fabric especially spark my interest and I'm curious about the tailoring experimentations BSR wrote about.
(Regarding shell cordovan, there's also a tannery in Argentina (Rocinante) and one in Italy that works with imported Japanese shells I think (Comipel). I've heard from a cordovan-enthusiast bootmaker that the quality wasn't exactly on par with Horween but I can't vouch for that.)
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Sorry if this is inane, but to anyone who's seen the collection, are the long jackets offered in the same cut as the previous season? I.e., really an elongated form of a suit jacket, vs. the slightly off-center hidden button closure long jacket that CCP does? Thanks -- it's hard to wait for next season clothing that you can't even see a preview of
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She didn't join CCP until 2005 or so though. Anyway, that doesn't really matter - who cares if CCP did a glass top. Jesus.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by wgropius@aol.com View Posti care. i have never seen this item. i wish people like you would move to another forum.
your angry that you don't own any carol christian poell items and don't want anyone else to enjoy them.
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