another view of the same garments:
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m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)
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another view of the same garments:
"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG
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Mmm, very very lovely.
Thanks Runner and Arto :)
This is the kind of work that really drives me and keeps me interested in guys like Grandma. A much greater emphasis on fabrics, fabric development/sourcing and the utilization of it. That combined with deceptively "simple" construction that looks/feels natural is devastatingly effective.
Absolutely wonderful.www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs
Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
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Originally posted by Chinorlz View PostMmm, very very lovely.
Thanks Runner and Arto :)
This is the kind of work that really drives me and keeps me interested in guys like Grandma. A much greater emphasis on fabrics, fabric development/sourcing and the utilization of it. That combined with deceptively "simple" construction that looks/feels natural is devastatingly effective.
Absolutely wonderful.
...But this is not new. 50 years ago Coco Channel was creating functional design that revolutionised women’s fashion. 20 years ago Yohji Yamamoto did it again with design and Issey Miyake with fabric.
This kind of paradigm shift always follows a period of stagnation, as we experienced 10 years ago, then came Maurizio Altieri. Now we have m.a+, Label Under Construction, Forme d’expression, Augusta, Boris Bidjan Saberi and many more who feel that they can do it alone rather than going to one of the big Italian fashion houses and being swallowed up by the machine!
Exciting times!"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde
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hobo,
what do you think of ccp in relation to the paradigm shift? i feel like he has paradigm shifted himself out of the current paradigm (or actually vice versa) and will cease to be as relevant for the time being unless functionality and wearability become greater concerns. ccp has really done it alone, but can one overdue it alone? is mystery and the hype it builds still relevant in this paradigm?One wonders where it will end, when everything has become gay.
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Originally posted by Hobo View PostExactly, this is the beauty. This is what makes it wonderful. This is the Zeitgeist!
...But this is not new. 50 years ago Coco Channel was creating functional design that revolutionised women’s fashion. 20 years ago Yohji Yamamoto did it again with design and Issey Miyake with fabric.
This kind of paradigm shift always follows a period of stagnation, as we experienced 10 years ago, then came Maurizio Altieri. Now we have m.a+, Label Under Construction, Forme d’expression, Augusta, Boris Bidjan Saberi and many more who feel that they can do it alone rather than going to one of the big Italian fashion houses and being swallowed up by the machine!
Exciting times!
Heheh, agreed that the concepts behind the motivation of those such as grandma et al is not a new one, I just particularly like their approach. Like you said, the small scale aspects of all of them are a big part of what intrigues me. The designers themselves can then oversee and directly work with the materials. This translates to a more precise execution of the designers vision of each collection.
Hard for me to put a finger on it but the Maurizios and Luca to me have a great balance between fabric research/choices and construction. They seem to put equal emphasis on both which results in a seriously cohesive garment (along with some failures along the way of course).
Something for all of us to aspire towards and be mindful of when constructing our own work.www.AlbertHuangMD.com - Digital Portfolio Of Projects & Designs
Merz (5/22/09):"i'm a firm believer that the ultimate prevailing logic in design is 'does shit look sick as fuck' "
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Originally posted by KM80 View PostThose pants look like they would be so nice to wear on a hot day like today. Are they really as light as they seem, or are those background light pics deceiving?
Originally posted by philip nod View Posthobo,
what do you think of ccp in relation to the paradigm shift? i feel like he has paradigm shifted himself out of the current paradigm (or actually vice versa) and will cease to be as relevant for the time being unless functionality and wearability become greater concerns. ccp has really done it alone, but can one overdue it alone? is mystery and the hype it builds still relevant in this paradigm?
As far as his actual work; I think that it is very interesting and I do think that it has integrity. He pays great attention to the detail of fabric and cut, in exactly the same way that Grandma does. The difference is that if you mention Carol to Grandma, he offers a respectful, thoughtful opinion of his work. When I mentioned the work of LUC and Grandma to Sergio at CCP, he dismissed them as ‘just more Carpe Diem knock offs’. Not true and not cool!
Originally posted by Chinorlz View PostHeheh, agreed that the concepts behind the motivation of those such as grandma et al is not a new one, I just particularly like their approach. Like you said, the small scale aspects of all of them are a big part of what intrigues me. The designers themselves can then oversee and directly work with the materials. This translates to a more precise execution of the designers vision of each collection.
Hard for me to put a finger on it but the Maurizios and Luca to me have a great balance between fabric research/choices and construction. They seem to put equal emphasis on both which results in a seriously cohesive garment (along with some failures along the way of course).
Something for all of us to aspire towards and be mindful of when constructing our own work."I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde
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Originally posted by Hobo View PostHave you looked at Geoffrey’s work? It’s very different, but amazing. Almost everything that he distributes is made by him and 3 other people. No factory, no production, just him, his wife and a couple of trainees! This is even more control than either Maurizio retained over their production!
It shows great strength and determination on his part, to create regardless of the ebbs and flows of life........
Also, if my memory serves me correct isnt he originally from Boston?
Albert, he may have been your next door neighbour!!!!!!!!!“You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
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Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
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He did have an unfortunate experience that lead him to this way of doing things, in fact several, but those are issues that you’d have to take up with him. Not my place to discuss. He is registered on the Zeitgeist! Out of the ashes...
Yes he is from Boston. Those guys do know how to throw a good tea party!"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde
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Originally posted by Hobo View PostHe did have an unfortunate experience that lead him to this way of doing things, in fact several, but those are issues that you’d have to take up with him. Not my place to discuss. He is registered on the Zeitgeist! Out of the ashes...
Yes he is from Boston. Those guys do know how to throw a good tea party!“You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
.................................................. .......................
Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
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I think the thing with CCP is that when it comes to wearability..it is where he wants it to be. His pieces are more structural and it is an evolution that has run its course throughout his "career" as a designer. I feel at this point it has become clothing for the analytical mind more so than for the body that belongs to said analytical mind. This is a turn that has been seen before and the most recent example I can site is actually project Linea. Concepts of form over function became more intransigent and the pieces became less wearable as function on the human form was set to the wayside because aspirations to create perfect garments of beauty became the focus.
This is where lines like M.A+ and Label Under Construction really come into the spotlight for me. They strive for balance. When I think of progressive designers 4 names come immediately to mind and recently a fifth has joined the ranks. Geoffrey is that 5th designer (and yes he is registered here with a couple of posts under his belt). There does seem to be an air of ambivalence towards his work, though I think its because of the lack of brand recognition in the mainstream of the “esoteric”. His work is conscientiously constructed. His designs are considerate progressions of old world traditions that are slipping away into the pages of history…and because people don’t read, it is destined to be lost. (It’s a metaphor. Don’t get upset. I know many of you read. ;)) The man holds a wealth of information and I hope that he will take the time post something regarding the aforementioned paradigm shift here. Because its not limited to fashion design, it touches every corner of the “industry”. Which leads me to this: Hobo's statements of being inclusive is an ideal that he truly embraces. This is one of many attributes that has earned him my respect and why I am personally proud to count him a friend in the field. Not just because it is a criterion that we share, but because it is one that everyone should strive for.Originally posted by Faustfuck you, i don't have an attitude problem.
Sartorialoft
"She is very ninja, no?" ~Peter Jevnikar
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DHC, I wish that you hadn’t said all that about earning your respect... Shit, I wanted to tell you how well you write and how bang on your views are! Now everyone’s just going to think that we’re dating!
Fuck it, you rock man. You do write incredibly and with great insight... Glad to know you. Glad to call you friend!"I am so clever that sometimes I don't understand a single word of what I am saying." — Oscar Wilde
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Originally posted by DHC View PostI think the thing with CCP is that when it comes to wearability..it is where he wants it to be. His pieces are more structural and it is an evolution that has run its course throughout his "career" as a designer. I feel at this point it has become clothing for the analytical mind more so than for the body that belongs to said analytical mind. This is a turn that has been seen before and the most recent example I can site is actually project Linea. Concepts of form over function became more intransigent and the pieces became less wearable as function on the human form was set to the wayside because aspirations to create perfect garments of beauty became the focus.
This is where lines like M.A+ and Label Under Construction really come into the spotlight for me. They strive for balance. When I think of progressive designers 4 names come immediately to mind and recently a fifth has joined the ranks. Geoffrey is that 5th designer (and yes he is registered here with a couple of posts under his belt). There does seem to be an air of ambivalence towards his work, though I think its because of the lack of brand recognition in the mainstream of the “esoteric”. His work is conscientiously constructed. His designs are considerate progressions of old world traditions that are slipping away into the pages of history…and because people don’t read, it is destined to be lost. (It’s a metaphor. Don’t get upset. I know many of you read. ;)) The man holds a wealth of information and I hope that he will take the time post something regarding the aforementioned paradigm shift here. Because its not limited to fashion design, it touches every corner of the “industry”. Which leads me to this: Hobo's statements of being inclusive is an ideal that he truly embraces. This is one of many attributes that has earned him my respect and why I am personally proud to count him a friend in the field. Not just because it is a criterion that we share, but because it is one that everyone should strive for.
Hopefully with your support David, he will ultimately move closer to getting the respect and appreciation that his work desrves...........“You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
.................................................. .......................
Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
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Originally posted by Chinorlz View PostMmm, very very lovely.
Thanks Runner and Arto :)
This is the kind of work that really drives me and keeps me interested in guys like Grandma. A much greater emphasis on fabrics, fabric development/sourcing and the utilization of it. That combined with deceptively "simple" construction that looks/feels natural is devastatingly effective.
Absolutely wonderful.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by philip nod View Posthobo,
what do you think of ccp in relation to the paradigm shift? i feel like he has paradigm shifted himself out of the current paradigm (or actually vice versa) and will cease to be as relevant for the time being unless functionality and wearability become greater concerns. ccp has really done it alone, but can one overdue it alone? is mystery and the hype it builds still relevant in this paradigm?
EDIT: not as bad as i expected. lucky sissy p.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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