Originally posted by Fuuma
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m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)
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Originally posted by Fuuma View PostLet's be honest here, the word "artisanal" is thrown around SZ while most people have no notions of what goes into, say, a bespoke suit.
ps: hand sewn buttonholes are found on some RTW garments, heck I got some jackets with those (and others with machine sewn buttonholes). Bespoke jackets usually include a bunch of "machine" work. I know a tailor who made an entirely hand sewn suit for himself and it was more an experiment and demonstration of the superiority of machine work for some parts than anything else. He studied couture and now works for a big manufacturer so he can do stress tests and allkinds of fun stuff with different stitchings. Very often tailoring myths about the superiority of handwork are debunked, Couture and bespoke are also about romanticism.
which is why i have become a pragmatist in my own work.........whatever yields the most desired results is the means which I am going to use to execute a piece.........“You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
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Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
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Originally posted by Fuuma View PostI'll kick your ass on sunday. Ok I agree. :)
you'll put a bespoke white shirt
let's go to the Flore
and prepare yourself
for a battle of "bons mots"
we'll pretend you're BHL
and i'll be Enthoven
Who's going to be the Dombasle?pix
Originally posted by FuumaFuck you and your viewpoint, I hate this depoliticized environment where every opinion should be respected, no matter how moronic. My avatar was chosen just for you, die in a ditch fucker.
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Originally posted by BSR View Post
you'll put a bespoke white shirt
let's go to the Flore
and prepare yourself
for a battle of "bons mots"
we'll pretend you're BHL
and i'll be Enthoven
Who's going to be the Dombasle?Selling CCP, Harnden, Raf, Rick etc.
http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums...me-other-stuff
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Originally posted by tricotineacetat View Post
I would be intrigued to see some of these garments up close that to anyone in here, hold up the mystique of artisanship in MA+ (or other related designer's) clothing - I'm not here to impose a prejudiced opinion but to see what really is the 'extra' to the garments, despite the small scale production runs.
Menswear as we know it today is being made after quite rigid, orthodox fabrication traditions that for some odd reason, make people like Poell an innovator for when he tapes his canvassed interlinings into his jackets instead of stitching them (weather or not that makes for a better result is another question).
And re Poell taping his seams inside, I remember asking this question ages ago. It seems to me that it can't make the thing better - in fact it must destroy almost the very reason for hand-basting an interlining in the first place, since it renders the interlining entirely "fixed" and not "floating". Anyway Poell is beyond these critisizms...
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Originally posted by Fuuma View PostDo we know any female dwarves?pix
Originally posted by FuumaFuck you and your viewpoint, I hate this depoliticized environment where every opinion should be respected, no matter how moronic. My avatar was chosen just for you, die in a ditch fucker.
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Originally posted by tricotineacetat View PostI would be intrigued to see some of these garments up close that to anyone in here, hold up the mystique of artisanship in MA+ (or other related designer's) clothing - I'm not here to impose a prejudiced opinion but to see what really is the 'extra' to the garments, despite the small scale production runs.
i'd also say the jil sander comparison is a little iffy. m.a+ is stripped down or minimal in a different way than jil is. what is special about m.a+ is that the patterns are often times actually very complex. i consider the design as minimal in that it is anatomical and raw. hence the emphasis on leather. its a second skin type situation. and i feel that amadei has placed a lot of effort on finding fabrics that behave like leather. thats what i mean by molding to your body and that they have to be broken in, etc. sometimes it feels like you're wearing lightweight body armor. maybe thats just me though...
bsr maybe u should wear it when u meet with fuumadying and coming back gives you considerable perspective
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Originally posted by cjbreed View Post
bsr maybe u should wear it when u meet with fuumapix
Originally posted by FuumaFuck you and your viewpoint, I hate this depoliticized environment where every opinion should be respected, no matter how moronic. My avatar was chosen just for you, die in a ditch fucker.
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Originally posted by lowrey View Postgood post cj.
and you are all welcome. that photo would have never made its way on to the interwebz if I hadn't dragged more photos out of Amadei for our interviewdying and coming back gives you considerable perspective
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Originally posted by tricotineacetat View PostThe term 'sportswear' does technically not mean performance clothing or active wear as the name may guess, but 'casual' (=non-tailored) clothing - What makes the sewing of properly tailored garments 'artisanal' are particular working steps in which the fabric is shaped and structured from the inside, those steps were originally done by hand (and are still done in Haute Couture, down to hand-sewn buttonholes and other features that are way too pricy for ready-to-wear scales) or done nowadays by expensive machinery (if a factory/workshop is specialized in the making of particular clothes such as tailored suits), but nonetheless require a lot of additional consideration and care during the realization from a toile to a finished prototype.
Again, it's not needed for all garments to be interlined and constructed to death, this is after all what the Japanese and Belgian designers rebelled against with their distinctly different silhouettes and what inevitably started as a process long before when 'designer's ready to wear' was introduced in the late 50ies - A lot of innovations were made not only in terms of style but also to accommodate less expensive manufacturing... this is also why there is quite a huge difference in the pricing of 'real' Couture garments and luxury ready to wear, since the manufacturing process (which is then almost entirely by hand) is fundamentally different...
It's really important to know the classical artisanship in a way to know what you want to do fundamentally different, which, for example makes Yohji Yamamoto's demi-couture mainline so special - you see that there is an element of craft and construction to his designs that is not purely a graphic styling, particularly for when you look at the cutting work (I suppose anyone that had the chance to see some of his womenswear up close has had similar experiences)... the way it's sewn however is essentially different from typical couture sewing, thus making not only the style but also the craft quite modern.
I still don't see how any of this would warrant saying that Amadei's work is strictly not artisanal. surely the term can be interpreted in many ways and yes, its thrown around quite often, but in all it's simplicity I think it means goods that are made in a more traditional and smaller scale production process, as opposed to larger scale production in a remote factory. a small atelier with a handful of workers handling the design and construction process surely meets this criteria."AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG
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tricotin, your definition of sportswear is outdated, just like that in most of the dictionaries that were compiled in the 50s. A mismatched blazer and a pair of slacks no longer signify sportswear.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by Faust View Posttricotin, your definition of sportswear is outdated, just like that in most of the dictionaries that were compiled in the 50s. A mismatched blazer and a pair of slacks no longer signify sportswear.
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firstly, whatever the classic definition of sportswear is, I think it has very little to do with this topic.
Originally posted by tricotineacetat View PostThe romance of clothing being designed and made in the same place by the designer or expert workers is quite unreal (the price would then easily be double as high)"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE | BLOG
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Originally posted by lowrey View Postfirstly, whatever the classic definition of sportswear is, I think it has very little to do with this topic.
romantic or not, that is m.a's manufacturing process. apart from the footwear, which is made together with a shoemaker, everything is made by a small team in amadei's atelier.“You know,” he says, with a resilient smile, “it is a hard world for poets.”
.................................................. .......................
Zam Barrett Spring 2017 Now in stock
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