m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[philip nod]

i think the genius design move on this is that grandma furthers an illusion of an armored chest plate by utilizing 3d pockets that retain their sleek position, the type of mastery that you can't stumble upon. the hood i can do without but the length through the torso is getting better, and i like the addition of hand pockets and the torqued/scalloped back and, it almost goes without saying, some of the best leather out there. i doubt i'll ever buy something like this but i like this new stage he's entering into. he's improving upon the glory days of 07 and frankly, lately with ccp pulling his ob1-kenobi hermit act, i look forward to his new work/improvements with greater enthusiasm.

it has something to do with ageing: "sick as fuck" is wasted on youth.

[snafu]

I'l be honest i knew much more about Amadei before i knew about carpe/linea so mayeb i am biased.

Amadeis work right now calls for the unseen ideas, his pattern work is truly in a field of its own, wether this be him or the little italian lady coming in a few days a week im not sure; but he is the director, he choses the fabrics and has the final say. The minor angles and perfection between balance points is not something they can teach you in any pattern making class or any design degree. It has true though and consideration and patience, sure he fails sometimes but anyone who has spoken to the man will know even he admits that. But give him a few seasons to rework the idea and he presents genius.
Sure the new pieces are all adaptations of things he had done before but in a new direction and context. I'l admit when he has been staggered but i feel this new collection is him refreshed.
Many people even myself have question his authenticity of his work and wether or not the ideas are maurizio's or linea's? But he has proved himself in abundance over the seasons; more than just the wallets, but the throne collar coat, noto jofu jacket, first season accordion, one piece pant, one piece underwear ;)

So what if his chain of thought came from the Linea project Amadei has gone somewhere else with it. To really appreciate his work you need to try replicate it, maurizio executes simple ideas to a standard that is hard to match; antiqued silver hardwear...
Until you try to make something of maurizios yourself, even a one piece pattern you will realise the though and consideration that goes into it. He cross 's clothes with mathematics, and get beautiful organic results. When he strips his ideas and shapes down to be so simple why complex things in construction; this is not what amadei is about, he is about simplicity. If you want over constructed garments, even ones which prohibit the wearer, go to Poell, and even on occasion his break, but don't compare the two.
Sure his sleeves are too long and body is too short but who isn't allowed mistakes.

[MikeN]

Just to add some fuel to the fire, I've heard only negative reviews about the showroom while in Paris from several people, including buyers and employees of stores.

ALSO (and the only reason I'm posting this is because I thought it was coincidental that I very rarely read this thread, and since I decided to click on it today, someone is posting challenging the quality of the his garments) two separate people who are extremely familiar with ma+ and his garments (take my word for it) told me that they wouldn't be buying anything from him in the future because their pieces were falling apart. One of these people was wearing the garment at the time, and was able to point out the specific parts of the garment that were quickly deteriorating. Personally I have no opinion either way, I think the stuff is nice but I don't own any. Like I said, just adding some fuel to the fire.

[AKA*NYC]

they're still around, you know. i think they played amoeba records a couple of months ago.

i really should have known that. i saw the nyc show.

[BSR]

what....why?

cause it's again and again the same war in this thread

@nod: i wish you could see the pants, they are the season's masterpiece. I tried on the leather aviator, agree with you on the beauty of the leather, but the cut is a difficult one, especially the front 3D pockets that go beyond the chest area. I'd say nice try, half fail, masterpiece to come.

[philip nod]

Just to add some fuel to the fire, I've heard only negative reviews about the showroom while in Paris from several people, including buyers and employees of stores.

ALSO (and the only reason I'm posting this is because I thought it was coincidental that I very rarely read this thread, and since I decided to click on it today, someone is posting challenging the quality of the his garments) two separate people who are extremely familiar with ma+ and his garments (take my word for it) told me that they wouldn't be buying anything from him in the future because their pieces were falling apart. One of these people was wearing the garment at the time, and was able to point out the specific parts of the garment that were quickly deteriorating. Personally I have no opinion either way, I think the stuff is nice but I don't own any. Like I said, just adding some fuel to the fire.

i've had threads here and there fail in a wallet or a bag, but nothing that raises any alarms. i've worn the shit out of my 07 ankle boots and after an oil change at the firm, they look better than they ever did. and every coat, bag, belt, pant, etc has performed like a great race car and most of my items are in their third year of consistent use. i will gladly wager against these people
you speak of mike, my money is on MA+. i stopped buying ccp clothes (though i still buy the footwear) because of the debacle that occurred with the spiral pants--the most anticipated pair of pants ever and he blew it. at least rick still has his decline of the roman empire sense of showmanship going for him while his garments fall apart.

[Peasant]

...told me that they wouldn't be buying anything from him in the future because their pieces were falling apart. One of these people was wearing the garment at the time, and was able to point out the specific parts of the garment that were quickly deteriorating.

Damn..you gonna blow up the spot on the items?

[MikeN]

to be fair, none of the items discussed were footwear.

[lowrey]

I've had zero quality issues myself. as an example, I've used my square leather bag pretty much daily for the past 2 years, carrying a heavy dslr in it among other things, and it looks the same as the day I bought it. I'm actually blown away by the durability of such thin and soft leather. but of course, this doesn't mean someone else couldn't have issues, I just wanted to add myself as one of those who is very happy with the products.

regarding the SS11 collection, it seemed quite incoherent, ranging from a few heavy leather pieces to straight up peasant style shirts and trousers, some pieces just lacked any sort of edge that he has traditionally had. some cuts were off, very strange fits. a variation of the aviator looked a bit uninteresting and was even shorter then before. some knits, aviator vest and other things were literally to my belly button. the colour palette was also very mixed up, but then again most pieces are available in a variety of colours so this was rather a matter of presentation.

a few standout pieces included a grey/black canvas/leather tote bag and a grey accordion bag, which cut-wise are old pieces. one jacket and one button up shirt looked really nice, but again both seemed to be old cuts. the accessories of course included nice pieces like always. all in all, while there were some nice pieces, I'm sad to say that as a collection I wasn't impressed by this season. I feel like Amadei is one of those designers who should definately do a yearly collection, doing two seasons a year just doesn't work with this sort of a product, and if I'd have to guess, I'd say this collection looked like it was rushed a bit.

[delphine]

Any chance of some pictures, lowrey?

[lowrey]

sorry, don't have any

[orphée]

i think the genius design move on this is that grandma furthers an illusion of an armored chest plate by utilizing 3d pockets that retain their sleek position, the type of mastery that you can't stumble upon. the hood i can do without .

I actually admire the hood, at least from the front, as it affords the perfect solution for keeping out the weather. And since it is leather, I assume that the aviator chin flaps will retain their shape instead of rolling back like on a canvas aviator. The hood also has a knight-like vibe to it. Even in its present state of development with the possible shortcomings, I really like this jacket. The only down side would be the back view with the hood up, which, in the pics I've seen, tends to come across a bit like a latex bodysuit.

[cjbreed]

cause it's again and again the same war in this thread

wasn't a war, or argument, for me. i was really just trying to work thru my own thoughts on amadei's work and using other people's thoughts as a catalyst.

i'm still not 100% sure how i feel about it as a whole. i do know there are enough very very good pieces out there that i have plenty to keep my wallet busy. his strengths keep me drawn to his work, and loyal.

i think lowrey is on to something with the yearly collections as opposed to seasonal. could weed out the duds...

[snafu]

I've had zero quality issues myself. as an example, I've used my square leather bag pretty much daily for the past 2 years, carrying a heavy dslr in it among other things, and it looks the same as the day I bought it. I'm actually blown away by the durability of such thin and soft leather. but of course, this doesn't mean someone else couldn't have issues, I just wanted to add myself as one of those who is very happy with the products.

regarding the SS11 collection, it seemed quite incoherent, ranging from a few heavy leather pieces to straight up peasant style shirts and trousers, some pieces just lacked any sort of edge that he has traditionally had. some cuts were off, very strange fits. a variation of the aviator looked a bit uninteresting and was even shorter then before. some knits, aviator vest and other things were literally to my belly button. the colour palette was also very mixed up, but then again most pieces are available in a variety of colours so this was rather a matter of presentation.

a few standout pieces included a grey/black canvas/leather tote bag and a grey accordion bag, which cut-wise are old pieces. one jacket and one button up shirt looked really nice, but again both seemed to be old cuts. the accessories of course included nice pieces like always. all in all, while there were some nice pieces, I'm sad to say that as a collection I wasn't impressed by this season. I feel like Amadei is one of those designers who should definately do a yearly collection, doing two seasons a year just doesn't work with this sort of a product, and if I'd have to guess, I'd say this collection looked like it was rushed a bit.

To be fair i hear MAurizio has been ill and they were also effected due to train strikes.

[philip nod]

While I'd like to advocate for dissolution of the current seasonal system from an artistic perspective,i think it would lead to more sporadic offerings and higher prices as weve witnessed with ccp. I'm fine with growth over long term intervals with periods of meditation and cautious stagnation.