m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[lowrey]

I think you could still show twice a year, but rather than attempt to make a new collection, do smaller tweaks and changes in colours. that is already partially what many of these relatively small designers are doing, but I think it could be extended a bit further.

[Faust]

Delphine, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I suppose that is why I did not even bother going to the only relevant showroom in Paris

[delphine]

Delphine, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I suppose that is why I did not even bother going to the only relevant showroom in Paris

I knew there had to be others here who saw it as I do.

But the replies from others have been helpful for me to understand the obsession and I guess if there are people who love and enjoy his work that's all that matters.

(I would still argue adamantly that there are other more "relevant" showrooms in Paris. But on this thread if he's considered the most relevant, what's the harm in that )

[Agent L]

Amadei's work has always resonated an old-world artisan's craftsmanship vibe to me. Throw in his extremely insightful approach to pattern making and construction, etc. and to me you have one of the top guys out there. He's an apex predator in my book.

A fine example that demonstrates his vision to me would be his Aviator. When I first saw this piece I was floored. Raw edges paired with the right fabric, cut lines and seam construction that convey laborious hours of sewing. Then the second iteration comes out. This time with two chest pockets. Chest pockets? What's the big deal? Well, when the pockets/pocket bags are made from the front body panels and not inset or patched pockets it's a big deal to me. Mad scientist stuff. Guess I'm a sucker for finer details. His latest iteration of the Aviator being the leather piece from FW10. Another mind blowing evolution on his signature silhouette. Yes, I'm talking pockets again. This time he folds the front body panels in origami like fashion to form four pockets. Two chest and two side entry, all from the same body panels. You guys are probably asking what the fuck is up with Agent L and pockets. I just find his approach unexpected and ingenious. Makes you slap your head and say, damn, why didn't I think of that? Anyhow, it was 90+ degrees the other day when I went to Atelier with no intentions of buying anything but ended up leaving with the armor-like leather Aviator.

So to all the non believers out there, next time you see his work up close and in person, hopefully you will find yourself appreciating it more. Just my two cents.

[ETC]

epic! i'd love to see you in that leather aviator! ;)

[ddohnggo]

agent l's response is . now you make me want to buy the leather aviator. ha.

[eton97]

I just bought his double layer heavy fabric blazer in charcoal grey. (H lorenzo has pictures in the preview of the ma+ for aw10) I am no expert on tailoring in any way, but have to say it is one of the most beautiful and truly original pieces I have seen. The quality seems exceptional and the cut and structure means that the jacket actually sculpts and hugs the body. The lines and silhouette are amazing. Also the fabric is something that I have never seen before. Beautifully textured and amazing colour. I do agree that pricing is very definitely at the top end, but I am sure it is a piece that is timeless and will last me for years......
After reading the comments on the aviator, I too am very tempted. Quick question - I once tried on an aviator in heavy fabric but didn't purchase because it just seemed too short at the front of the body and flared out too much when undone. Is this still the case on the new aw10 - is the cut always the same (bar the pockets)?, and has anybody else had this problem with his aviator?.....also how many jackets is too many....I think my wife will leave me if I buy another....not enough days in the week to wear all this stuff, but can't help myself......

[sshum88]

I'm curious if anyone has had the opportunity to handle this coat in real life? I would appreciate your comments / feedback about the fabric, cut, fit etc.

[Peasant]

^I've seen it, but didn't try it on. Fabric was very nice. Wool blend, yet soft and comfortable. The cut looked similar to most of his long coats. Sizing up isn't all that uncommon given the height of the arm holes and the possibility of layering underneath. It is badass.

[cjbreed]

Quick question - I once tried on an aviator in heavy fabric but didn't purchase because it just seemed too short at the front of the body and flared out too much when undone. Is this still the case on the new aw10 - is the cut always the same (bar the pockets)?, and has anybody else had this problem with his aviator?.....also how many jackets is too many....I think my wife will leave me if I buy another....not enough days in the week to wear all this stuff, but can't help myself......

1 - i think it is likely even shorter in the front than whichever one you tried on. i've had 5 aviators at one time or another and the new versions are shorter

2 - 30. 30 jackets is too many

[cjbreed]

does anyone have experience with this material? at first i was a little turned off by the grid pattern. but, i don't know, it has kind of grown on me. it looks tough, like a semi-industrial fabric or some tear resistant teflon type thing (i know it is cotton). and it looks stiff like it will break in and age well. i especially like it on this raglan blazer




thoughts??

[BSR]

i tried pants and this jacket (but it was one size too big) in this coton
a nice ma+ fabric, quite stiff and light enough for summer
i'd say YES

[cjbreed]

cool thanks for the input. would u say it feels fairly durable?

[BSR]

cool thanks for the input. would u say it feels fairly durable?

more than ccp
less than carhartt

[snafu]

yeh it is i have a pair of boots in that fabric, bsr is right ; stiff an d lightweight