m.a+ (Maurizio Amadei)

[Acid, Bitter and Sad]

ma+ jeans

I've seen those indigo jeans irl. Didn't like them one bit. Not a fan of the colour to begin with, plus the fabric was stiff and kinda rough.
The other fabric in this design was much nicer, and it's Carbon colour was pretty gorgeous.
That said, after handling and trying it on (the Carbon one), i didn't quite feel the cinched/pleated knee details, a little too decorative for me. The construction of the pleats were well done though, I wouldn't worry about them unraveling.

[eton97]

MA+ Jeans

I kind of agree with you...but would add something.
I ordered these without seeing them first....initial impreesion was exactly the same as Y: 'Not a fan of the colour - plus the fabric was stiff and kinda rough.
Also the pleated knee was a 50/50 for me.....however, felt I'd give them a wash and try them out....The first wash took out the colour brightness, and after wearing 5+ times, they are now fading into a really nice blue - also they have softened up quite a bit and are really comfortable to wear. You don't actually notice the pleated knee - the jeans are cut long and it just looks like additional bunching. (and they are not going to unravel)
Agreed expensive and a touch decorative, but i reckon these will just get better with time.

[Acid, Bitter and Sad]

ma+ jeans

Dan, glad those worked out for you.
I do agree that the pleats resemble bunching, except that, due to my height, they weren't quite at my knees
If you like this design, check out the other fabric (if you haven't already done so).

[snafu]

thats how all ma+ products are, i don't really wear jeans these days; even though i actually like the idea of denim; its timeless, utilitarian, casual, and pretty much conforming to everyday society. Yet I never wear jeans... whatever the reason these i don't actually wear jeans despite having various dior's that fit me well and a few pairs from margiela. I think it is down to trying to mature my taste or consciously trying to be more mature in clothing. I think the problem with jeans i think is that when you wear jeans is that when you wear jeans with a blazer/tailored coat you can fall into that 'smart casual' which pretty much the UK does conform to on any social occasion, if you wear jeans with a t-shirt or any jersey it does look purely 'casual'. I guess that maybe because 'dior homme/hedi slimane' created this format which used denim so much; this effected every guy reading this forum, this format is so hard to break away from or not to feel pigeon holed in.

I think with amadei's jeans they are a great balance between classic denim in certain aspects; fabric, colour, and i guess the format for a pair of jeans; 3 front pockets 2 back belt loops etc... and removing any direct references; there is something refreshing in the lines on the garment.... the pleating at the knee might be to give the leg more shape while keeping the denim selvage ? rather than just cutting it in a curved shape... while loosing the traditional japanese selvage denim idea.

I think amadei really does have a great approach when it comes to garment design, sometimes he fails but i only respect him for trying... i think throughout his collections you can certainly see progress of an idea from season to season... we certainly don't see that with carol it is more an end refined product no visual mistake process. So i find amadei's honest work appealing.
I kinda trust him to get this right... which despite me thinking fuck this is really blue... i know over time amadei will prove me wrong.


After saying all this iv not even seen these jeans in person ;S

[cjbreed]

fenrost - good find on the leather aviator without the pockets. i feel like the pleated elbow and awkward pockets were the main problems with that piece. this one is far superior in my opinion. not sure if this is specific to shelter or what since it seems to be much more rare. but worth contacting grandma for special order methinks.

lined aviator looks nice. not sure if that cotton outerlayer will hold up and retain its color over time. need to feel it and see if it is thin cotton or more of a canvas material.



this is on my list now:

[Eye]

this



is great. Casual colors and materials, but the fit and the details makes it really unique... this blue denim with brusshed coton and raw wool (from outerlayer and hood) fits perfectly with the silhouette.

snafu : i totally agree with you. I'm not an expert about amadei, but i had the same feeling, hes trying and sometimes fails, but its what makes his design art more than clothing imo

[philip nod]

i really like the pleated knees / elbows. i think its the most successful version of the joint yet.

[cjbreed]

having not seen it in person i can't give a definitive yay or nay on the pleats but i'm certainly not dismissing them outright. but from what i've heard the issue is the same with carol's first foray into jointed pieces. they don't necessarily line up correctly on everyone (meaning tall guys like me). my other concern was the bulkiness/thickness of the leather on the jacket looking a little forced into a pleat where it isn't necessary. but who knows it may be a totally cool little detail...

that being said i'm absolutely lusting for these in a 50 or 52 and pray that they line up with my knee

[philip nod]

how tall are you?
the aviator joint worked for me, while carols typically do not, and i thought it was a successful way to deal with the excess material that typically bulges out in leather jackets. its also pretty fucking sci-fi.

[DHC]

i really like the pleated knees / elbows. i think its the most successful version of the joint yet.

I have to back Pnod on this one. The pleated knees are wonderful. It really works with the idea of stacking at the ankle without having to run the whole lower half of the leg. It provides balance when worn "correctly". I don't see it as an attempt at some superfluous decorative accent. I believe it serves to anchor the articles within an evolving aesthetic direction that he has been working for some time. Also, the pleats are placed on a curved seam, which I think is done magnificently. No outer seam. I make mention to point out that this is not a pattern of cut and sew. It is well thought out. I think the notion of the pleating being "too delicate" is coming from a perspective lacking intimacy with Amadei's work. I don't do jeans either Richard, but I rock these.

[DmD]

re: m.a+ pleated knee pants

cjbreed,
I think the m.a+ pleated knee pants can fit tall people well. I just picked up a pair of black cotton/poliuretan in a size 48 from Sarorialoft. I'm 6' and 145 lbs (and I have proportionally long legs) and I think they line up well with my knees. Maybe I'll make them my first posting to waywt. I think they are a very well executed design.

[Enaml]

Likewise, when I tried on the 44 early this past summer, they fit my 5'8" frame pretty well.

[Raw]

Hooded leather is straight armor. Might as well be wearing Kevlar. I do wish wish he made a hoodless version though. Assuming I could afford such a piece I'd rather have it collared than hooded.

A hoodless one sold on Y! not long ago.

http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b110354762

[move_ment]

julius x m.a+:

[cjbreed]

cjbreed,
I think the m.a+ pleated knee pants can fit tall people well. I just picked up a pair of black cotton/poliuretan in a size 48 from Sarorialoft. I'm 6' and 145 lbs (and I have proportionally long legs) and I think they line up well with my knees. Maybe I'll make them my first posting to waywt. I think they are a very well executed design.

i'm glad u made the waywt post. keep it up!

i'm 6'2" so hopefully they'll work out for me. the search continues...

perhaps they are in here...?