Label Under Construction (Luca Laurini)

[jcotteri]

certainly raising a solid point there Masugnen

[Faust]

Æsthetically, yes. But ethicly (regarding ethos)? Morse codes surely are æsthetically à par with »seismography« and other (erroneous) patterns Laurini has elaborated before. But a Morse code is a text, a message, superscribing the garment. I will not wear a T-shirt with »Corrosion« written on it.

Tarkovsky always strived to erase actors's facial expressions. »If you're sad, don't look sad – the audience will know anyway, and they're the ones that I want to react.« Never duplicate your expressions.

1. These aren't simply written - the characters allowed Laurini to display his design prowess. If they were simply stitched out or printed, that would be another matter.

2. It's done in such a matter that it easily becomes private - no one has to know about why the garment looks this way. All it shows is that there was a concept behind creating these garments.

[BSR]

agree with you masugnen
LUC stuff need to be seen IRL for sure

written messages are not needed for a conceptual work to work
on the contrary
unless the message is intrinsically connected to the object
magritte and godard (intertitles) for example did that well

but seriously, Nieztsche in morse on a sweater = WTF to me

[Enaml]

Agreed, Faust. After thinking it through, this doesn't seem all that different from the personal messages that were inscribed on certain continues pieces (sartoria?) in digital stitching. Especially the use of some special technique.

[MASUGNEN]

»the last scene« and »Oh God Mom the Snacke Ho [sic] Bites Me« are original Altieri writings, Nietzsche and Swift quotes are not original Laurini.

Does a real artist ever quote? Borrows, steals, hides, cons, rapes and kills – yes. But quotes? Laurini is really a superb craftsman, but this action makes me question his artistic ethos.

Has Laurini in extenso read Nietzsche and Swift? Or are these maxims found in his almanach? One sophistication does not bring another – and to mix them is always risky (e.g. film music).

Texts on clothes are for the most time bad. I don't like »Sartoria« written even in the most advanced leather stitching. And why would, in general, Altieri excuse Laurini? I definately oppose Altieri's early T-shirt with a photo of himself and the text »I live in the future« – I think he does too. I very much like Avantindietro's total lack of branding.

Open logotyping is always a mistake. I was disappointed and very surprised to see, in Classifieds, a largely CCP branded T-shirt.

In response to Faust's second point, I question the future wearer's intention. »Today, I feel Dionysic – I'll wear my Nietzschean jacket!« I'd love a jacket with a Nietszchean touch – I believe I have some – but LUC's take here will not result in the altieriesque 1+1=3 – rather, to me, 1+1=0. I don't question the existence of a concept, but I think it's a pretty bad one.

I feel more and more sceptic towards quotes – and quoting. A real interest and profound understanding of a text seldomly allow textual disconnections like quotes. A text is a whole, as a garment, as a wear, a style, a Stylezeitgeist.

Quotation is however feasible in a humoristic context. I feel akin with some Comme des Garçons texts. Noone would compare LUC with Comme des Garçons.

[Faust]

»the last scene« and »Oh God Mom the Snacke Ho [sic] Bites Me« are original Altieri writings, Nietzsche and Swift quotes are not original Laurini.

Does a real artist ever quote? Borrows, steals, hides, cons, rapes and kills – yes. But quotes? Laurini is really a superb craftsman, but this action makes me question his artistic ethos.

Not that it matters, but, to give just one example, Sherrie Levin's claim to fame is exactly that.

[Enaml]

Altieri's early T-shirt with a photo of himself and the text »I live in the future«

Now this is something I need to see. Pics?

[philip nod]

I think it would be better if the knits had built in speakers that could play the codes. making a body of work based on antiquated sonic transmissions and omitting / negating the foundamental nature / force of the medium in favour of concept lite aesthetics is akin to the watching the end of close encounters of the third kind with the sound turned off.
stick to what you're good at guys

[zamb]

I think it would be better if the knits had built in speakers that could play the codes. making a body of work based on antiquated sonic transmissions and omitting / negating the foundamental nature / force of the medium in favour of concept lite aesthetics is akin to the watching the end of close encounters of the third kind with the sound turned off.
stick to what you're good at guys

I disagree with you here bro, If designers stick only to what they are good at how do they expand their offerings and provide more products needed by their customers?.................

We need to challenge ourselves to become better in the areas we are weak (and strong)
I myself dislike too much wording in Clothing, but when done right can make interesting pieces. I dont think its the concept thats bad, but the possibility that the execution may be, and since i haven't seen much of it, I cannot say whether I think its good or bad.
I have an increasing reluctance to comment on the work of other designers, but I think I can here, the first pairs of LUC Jeans and pants were crappy, badly made, bad fit and bad execution, but I have seen were they have evolved with tweaking to become some of the best fitting pants around. if he had stuck to only what he was good at, these pants would never exist.

When designers fail, they ought to be told that they have failed, (both verbally and with your wallet). It's a necessary dialogue between creator and client. It provides us designers an opportunity to go back to the drawing board and revise our efforts and make them better.........., This is one of the things I love about SZ, the dialogue can be used to make the product better

[cjbreed]

haha lulz at pnod.

for me the code just looks like a pattern. few that don't know would figure out that it is morse code. the wtf to me is that it is other's words. i'd like if it were original text of some kind. i for one am a fan of words in art. scrawled into paintings or even as the art itself (jenny holzer)

[Hosting In Memory]

Truly an interesting presentation. It is hard these days to find presentations that feel innovative without ending up as overworked and simply strange.

[MASUGNEN]

Altieri's early T-shirt with a photo of himself and the text »I live in the future«

Now this is something I need to see. Pics?

Cycle Two sold it in the autumn of 2008. Do you read this, Albert? I'd fancy a photo copy, too.

By the way, Acne has produced some interesting furniture (inspired by Carl Malmsten), two habile documentaries (about scandalous Ebbe Carlsson and Swedish rock band Brother Daniel), but cinematically par excellence the motion picture Flickan [The Girl] 2009). I don't think it's necessary to stick to your primary ability. I laud diversification. But doesn't remix culture suck? Sherrie Levin is unknown to me, I can't find a (good) photo (montage) anywhere.

Of course, Laurini should have developed his pants. It's clothes. He knows how to make good clothes. Perhaps he some day will become a »clothing philosopher« (like Poell, Altieri, Kawakubo, Yamamoto, Montana, Armani, Gaultier, Chanel et al.). But this path does not go via philosophy.

[Chinorlz]

Just posted the images in the Continues thread so it doesn't mess up the LUC one :)

[ledger]

The exclusive is beautiful // Better late than never, two photographs I took from the showroom.

[Enaml]

Sam, your photos look great (both in content and shot). What an opportunity!