A1923 / Adiciannoveventitre (Augusta)

[drizzly]

I find M.a+ leathers thinner than anything simone puts out though. CCP on the other hand, results vary.

You have to look at the leather thickness not counting the lining. Past 2 years of a1923 leathers have not been as thick at all.

My horse ma+ backzips are as thick as my ccp horse tornados. maybe a touch thinner. ma+ has consistent leather thickness.

(fyi most my experience is with boots, shoes idk)

[fncyths]

thanks for your replies gents.

nicelynice - concerning the leather variations and shopping online - I think that's where the label can catch a snag. I have confidence with most other SZ shoe brands that if I order something online I'll have pretty much a standard general idea that the feel and quality will meet my expectations

faust - you pretty much answered where I was getting at. I've handled a fair share of the boots as well - but have always left empty handed...

zamb / drizzly - what models could you recommend. I've been hawking the work boots for a bit now.

cheers

[Icarium]

Yeah I've heard his production is very inconsistent, which is why folks sometimes don't advise special ordering since I think he cherry picks the nicer outcomes for retail and if you are getting a custom order then you end up with whatever comes out of the process.

I don't think I've been disappointed by the thickness or juiciness of any of the oiled cavallo I've handled from a retail store as well as kudu and renna.

I have a reverse leather pair that is drier and thinner though :/

I've also heard, though no idea if it's real or hype, that in the last couple of years he switched from machine construction to hand made.

But having both older augusta as well as more recent a1923 -- definitely his stuff 2014 onwards has been coming out really, really nice.

[drizzly]

thanks for your replies gents.

nicelynice - concerning the leather variations and shopping online - I think that's where the label can catch a snag. I have confidence with most other SZ shoe brands that if I order something online I'll have pretty much a standard general idea that the feel and quality will meet my expectations

faust - you pretty much answered where I was getting at. I've handled a fair share of the boots as well - but have always left empty handed...

zamb / drizzly - what models could you recommend. I've been hawking the work boots for a bit now.

cheers

current stuff maybe the workboots, see how the leather is... but for workboots i'd get L0

[drizzly]

Yeah I've heard his production is very inconsistent, which is why folks sometimes don't advise special ordering since I think he cherry picks the nicer outcomes for retail and if you are getting a custom order then you end up with whatever comes out of the process.

I don't think I've been disappointed by the thickness or juiciness of any of the oiled cavallo I've handled from a retail store as well as kudu and renna.

I have a reverse leather pair that is drier and thinner though :/

I've also heard, though no idea if it's real or hype, that in the last couple of years he switched from machine construction to hand made.

But having both older augusta as well as more recent a1923 -- definitely his stuff 2014 onwards has been coming out really, really nice.

yes he changed technique but pre and post 2014 have been good construction, 2014 and on is cleaner i guess

[TriggerDiscipline]

layer zero is the thinnest of them all though funny you say that

[drizzly]

layer zero is the thinnest of them all though funny you say that

i am not recommending boots based on the leather thickness in this case. Subject switched on you.

[lowrey]

why do we need to specify which brand "has the thinnest/thickest leather" when obviously they all have used a variety of leathers, all with very different characteristics? I've handled nearly every shoe model A1923 has made over the past years and there is a huge variance, there have been leathers that are some of the thickest and most sturdy I've seen and some fairly light.

[Faust]

#causepeoplehavenothingbettertodo

[drizzly]

why do we need to specify which brand "has the thinnest/thickest leather" when obviously they all have used a variety of leathers, all with very different characteristics? I've handled nearly every shoe model A1923 has made over the past years and there is a huge variance, there have been leathers that are some of the thickest and most sturdy I've seen and some fairly light.

LOL dude its a discussion why not just have the conversation rather than questioning the validity of it. Clearly people have thoughts and concerns.

And yes i remember 3-4 years ago a1923 was super stiff and thick leather, but now its changed.

[TriggerDiscipline]

id rather talk about leather thickness then talk about celebrities on WTF like daytime television

[lowrey]

LOL dude its a discussion why not just have the conversation rather than questioning the validity of it. Clearly people have thoughts and concerns.

And yes i remember 3-4 years ago a1923 was super stiff and thick leather, but now its changed.

discuss all you want, but tell me what purpose does it serve to say for example: "Past 2 years of a1923 leathers have not been as thick at all", when there are probably over a dozen different leather qualities in a collection? Have you seen the entire collections to warrant saying that, or are you basing it on a few pairs you've seen?

I'm not saying you shouldn't discuss material characteristics, I'm just confused by the need to box entire collections or labels into one feature. ie, "layer zero uses the thinnest leather" when obviously this is not the case and they use various types, so why say this?

[drizzly]

discuss all you want, but tell me what purpose does it serve to say for example: "Past 2 years of a1923 leathers have not been as thick at all", when there are probably over a dozen different leather qualities in a collection? Have you seen the entire collections to warrant saying that, or are you basing it on a few pairs you've seen?

I'm not saying you shouldn't discuss material characteristics, I'm just confused by the need to box entire collections or labels into one feature. ie, "layer zero uses the thinnest leather" when obviously this is not the case and they use various types, so why say this?

I've seen pretty big chunks of the collection and several of my friends own pieces from multiple collection that agree with me. I am basing this on dozens of pairs i've handled and owned.

re L0, i recommended L0 but never said anything negative about it and agree its not the case.

Regarding boxing into one feature. Lets put it like this a1923 leathers were always all over the place and have never been consistent like ma+/ccp/CD/guidi. now they are consistently thin. the quality of the overall boot/shoe is great.

FYI so far all you have done is question things but haven't contributed an opinion on the subject which clearly several folks are interested in.

[clusterfuck]

Hi everyone. I cannot find the post at the moment, but I wanted to confirm something a user posted about in the past. The post had to do with certain a1923s soles not being tanned or finished properly.

Anyway, I picked up a pair of reverse calf work boots with the dyed red soles (with no signs of wear) for a fair price on consignment. I finally started wearing them after having the soles vibrammed and so on. Well, after about a month of fairly light wear, the damn vibrams have started peeling off! I mean, I get the "don't handle with care" gimmick and I'm not one to baby my gear. Since my taste has been corrupted by this forum and I don't make a ton of money, I make investments in clothing I care about, live in it like a uniform and beat the shit out of it until it's rags. With that being said, I vibram my footwear because the thought of having artisanal footwear resoled by a 3rd party triggers me. But what the hell, seems like only a charlatan would make a boot that couldn't be effectively vibrammed.

[magic]

Well, after about a month of fairly light wear, the damn vibrams have started peeling off!

If the only things that came off was the vibrams, then I would say the cobbler doesnt did a good job. Not the quality of A1923.