A1923 / Adiciannoveventitre (Augusta)

[clusterfuck]

If the only things that came off was the vibrams, then I would say the cobbler doesnt did a good job. Not the quality of A1923.

You could be right and I might be overreacting. But I suppose the particular post haunted me. The soles do seem extra oily. I haven't had a problem with this particular cobbler in the past and the vibramms have not started peeling off of my pull on a1923s he took care of.

[yubbermax]

You could be right and I might be overreacting. But I suppose the particular post haunted me. The soles do seem extra oily. I haven't had a problem with this particular cobbler in the past and the vibramms have not started peeling off of my pull on a1923s he took care of.

The soles are probably oiled leather meant to last longer and be more waterproof than a standard leather sole. Similar to Alden waterlock soles. I'd bring the boots back to your cobbler and ask them to fix it, maybe they'll do it for free.

[Faust]

Hi everyone. I cannot find the post at the moment, but I wanted to confirm something a user posted about in the past. The post had to do with certain a1923s soles not being tanned or finished properly.

Anyway, I picked up a pair of reverse calf work boots with the dyed red soles (with no signs of wear) for a fair price on consignment. I finally started wearing them after having the soles vibrammed and so on. Well, after about a month of fairly light wear, the damn vibrams have started peeling off! I mean, I get the "don't handle with care" gimmick and I'm not one to baby my gear. Since my taste has been corrupted by this forum and I don't make a ton of money, I make investments in clothing I care about, live in it like a uniform and beat the shit out of it until it's rags. With that being said, I vibram my footwear because the thought of having artisanal footwear resoled by a 3rd party triggers me. But what the hell, seems like only a charlatan would make a boot that couldn't be effectively vibrammed.

You are blaming A1923 for a shitty job your cobbler did? Jesus, that's next level (cluster)fuckery.

[clusterfuck]

The soles are probably oiled leather meant to last longer and be more waterproof than a standard leather sole. Similar to Alden waterlock soles. I'd bring the boots back to your cobbler and ask them to fix it, maybe they'll do it for free.

Ah, got it. Thanks for the insight. Much appreciated. This is the post I was referring to:

In general, I think there's not really much connection between aesthetic considerations and construction. Making a shoe correctly isn't somehow incompatible with any aesthetic, it's just about making a shoe well.

I can't comment on CCP footwear construction quality. I've owned 2 pairs of CCP boots, and neither seemed especially well made, but neither had what I would consider basic construction shortcomings.But, with your sample size, I'm sure you have much more exposure.

With Augusta, there are just certain things that seem basic to making a shoe, not an artifact of "artisanal" construction, or a function of aesthetics, that are missing or incorrectly done. Again though, I have a relatively small sample size.

A few examples on the small number of pairs of Augusta boots I've owned and actually used:

The heel-holding-bit is not well shaped, it's seems like some kind of attempt to copy the proper construction from afar. On one shoe, there's an actual curve in where the top of the "heel cup" is located, that causes an aggressive point of pressure. on the other ... I can't remember, sorry. On the vast majority of my shoes, which don't all look nearly the same, this part of the shoe is made to a more standard shape.

Also, there are some issues with insteps (I think improved recently) on step-in boots, which I've never seen on any other boots. It's like he made the shape without considering the fact that you have to put a boot on.

Finally, there's something odd going on with the soles. On shoes with well made soles, the leather is tanned to harden it, and also make it rather impervious to materials. On my Augusta boots, the leather is actually still oily, causing problems with the Vibram staying attached, as well as, I suspect, durability and other problems. (rendenbach is an example of an excellent sole leather maker). The vibram halfsoles that came off were by Firm and a good shop in in California, the problem definitely wasn't with the addition.

I just feel like Augusta footwear often demonstrates some artistry, but is lacking in fundamentals. I still wear it. Maybe I'm being unfair.

[drizzly]

Ah, got it. Thanks for the insight. Much appreciated. This is the post I was referring to:

so normally when you add vibram to a shoe a cobbler has to scratch the sole a bit to get traction for the vibram to stick. If he didn't do that then its possible the vibram would slide off from the oiled sole.

I recommend this, take off the vibram, yourself or by shoe repair person, walk in boot for 1 month. add vibram. the natural wear of the sole will allow it to stick better. good luck

[NOHSAD]

Pictures of A1923's AW 16-17 collection from SOME/THINGS.

[Chinorlz]

Well... his materials/leather/fabric game is definitely strong in this collection. The green lace derbys are honestly very beautiful.

[robertsopenlehto]

Grey boots have an amazing texture

[lowrey]

thats probably shark skin

[drizzly]

def shark

[Gerber]

wtf is wrong with this guy



vs

[t3hg0suazn]

I'm not a businessman, I'm a business, man!

[drizzly]

man CCP copied a1923 what a bunch of jerks :-P

[byhand]

Have you seen the new A1923 jerkin? He recently made the PH 3/4 pants, which were painfully overworked with the obsessive overlock stitching everywhere. He follows that with a jerkin. PH will have to start letting retailers include the stuff in the online catalog of goods for sale or Simone will swipe his business.

[drizzly]

a1923 imitating someone well thats a first