If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
good call from merz; o-project hands down is my favourite. it might a bit much at first ('strangers reactions to your clothes'), but for me it's luca's most personal work and has helped define LUC as independent from altieri's work.
i've also found that the few pieces that i do own are some of my most worn items (collarless embedded mesh long coat and boiled wool scarf in particular.)
some of these collections i am not familiar with - would you be able to expound upon them visually? heaven only knows what altieri-related materials rest within your hard drive and wardrobe.
for my part, 02 linea/sartoria and related projects to 06 and beyond.
i haven't seen a wide enough range unfortunately, just going from what little i own.
LUC o-project (was that 07-08 or so?)
CCP f/w 07. mid-00's ccp had a lot of great work featured.
Dior homme f/w 02, Cloak f/w 04, Chalayan f/w 02.
I posted pics of CdGhp F/W 94 in the threads on tFS called "1970s-1990s the japanese avant-garde" and "comme des garcons menswear collections archive". and pics of those helmut lang collections in the general thread for his work where not all the looks shown on the runway are covered, but you can see about 85% of them. if you like, please go and check there (too many too post again).
yes o-project was 08.
as I said to someone before, that computer would not wake up, keeping most of the good materials in the hard drive.
those data are yet to be salvaged. I'm not able to visually.
so here are some things before 02. all I can for now.
in the latter half of the 90's CdG was trying to gather kindred spirits to resist the current of the times even designers like helmut lang were being involved in.
with sharp eyes they were searching for young independent talent to grow. they found him and he was called for the, say, future council. it was early 97 that he came alone to CdG headquarters when no one carried his stuff in japan. 1+1=3, rei's motto, coincidentally engraved on carpe diem silver emblem, became his company name in 2001.
he had happened to get to meet amadei through their kids. then amadei joined his project in 99. the first collection of lmaltieri was S/S 99 which means he had presented it in the summer of 98. there was already that aesthetic there we soon recognize today. it was clear and strong.
in those days most of the time he was working in the place close to hadida. although what he made was sometimes a bit too brutal for a product to sell, dialogues (or clash) with hadida might somewhat have helped him to tune up the subtle balance between creativity and practicality.
in 2000 he left paris. this was when he decided to stand outside fashion, a removal where he could communicate with what fashion had been ignoring, which perhaps was to lead to artistic silence/herodiadean autism to come. he bought a dead tomato processing plant in perugia, worked and showed the S/S 2001 cdiem/lmaltieri collection there. yes he officially changed the name. from carpe diem to cdiem. even the code for each style was totally different. full model change. by the time the inside of the plant was painted black, his company grew into a collective of like-minded twenty individuals who made it possible to introduce linea and all the other things.
also he often flied and visited all the vintage clothing stores in japan since not only vinyls but also nice vintage clothes were all concentrated there back then. he collected them like crazy and played with them to "get at and see the soul of them". that's how he had come to know what clothes are, instead of going to school.
what was made in 2001 as a line with no name which became linea later.
If I'd have to pick, it would probably be the A/W06 Noir collection from Number (N)ine. Just because I could actually see myself wear every single piece from this collection.
I also like the overall dark romantic feeling of Ann Demeulemeester's slouchy poets coming down the runway of her A/W08 collection; hiding in layers and layers of different textured clothes, their hair being draped on top of their oversized hats. And I like how she made a print by photographing dried hydrangeas from her garden to get the colour palette she envisioned for her designs.
Undercover A/W07 for its simple but powerful shapes, incredible detailing (razor-blade collars), and infused NASA technology.
Comment