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The jacket, shirt and pants would be quite the trifecta... its nice to use the zoom function on the A website to get an even closer look at some of the aspects of the construction and details. Really blows my mind especially on the pants. Are those magnetic closures for the flaps?
If we are talking about the same thing, they are not magnetic closures but snaps that unfasten when you pull the fastener. They work really well, akin to magnetic snaps.
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
We had a chance to catch up with Throup during a recent visit to L.A, to mark his debut at H. Lorenzo in West Hollywood’s Sunset Plaza, the only West Coast stockist and one of only two in the United States. And we found him just as intriguing, novel and hard to define as the clothes he has created.
First, he doesn’t want to be button-holed as a fashion designer. Instead he’s aiming for a sweet spot in between product designer and artist.
“This is the thing with fashion design versus product design,” Throup said. “The majority of fashion design is approached with so many ingredients already predetermined. Like if you need a buttonhole, you go to the buttonhole that’s been around since Victorian times. To me it feels dirty using that buttonhole -- it’s not mine.”
The solution? Precisely laser-cutting a rectangle of semi-elasticized tape and attaching it to the inside of the placket so a simple sideways tug quickly releases the button...
One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art ― Oscar Wilde
chinorlz touched on this already, but his attention to detail is what is so captivating to me. I tried on the riding coat in A a few weeks ago and i spent minutes just observing the details of the closures, zippers, pockets, lining, etc..
his attention to details just make his garments feel so authentic. i really got a sense for how much time was put into designing the coat.
“Man has somehow always feared this search, and I fear it even now. Suppose all man ever does is search for the reason, crosses oceans, sacrifices his life in the search; but to search it out, actually to find it, he’s afraid. For he senses that once he finds it, there will be nothing to search for.”
First, he doesn’t want to be button-holed as a fashion designer. Instead he’s aiming for a sweet spot in between product designer and artist.
This is very refreshing to hear, and I love how he tries to set his work apart from traditional craftmanship, without neglecting it’s roots. A buttonhole still is a buttonhole, it still has a purpose, it’s just the (artisanal) process behind manufacturing it that sets the two apart. He disconnects function from tradition.
I don’t want to derail this, but as a (young) graphic designer with (at least) one foot in the art/performance department, it actually touches me to see other fellows around having the same difficulties labeling their respective niche.
If we’d call designers not designers, but translators, we’d have way less problems with these issues. Ideally, a designer translates his idea by using a certain tool to the best suitable media. A concept can’t exist without context and, most important, content.
Wanted to share a new interview of Aitor in his studio that was recently published on a new site (interview here).
For full disclosure, I am the site's producer, but have been following Aitor since 2009 so it was nothing short of an honour to be able to interview him and get a closer look at his theoretical approach to design.
I found his thoughts around designing archetypes and not pieces to be fascinating, especially his last part about wanting to eventually mass produce his ideas.
Also, if you have feedback on the site itself around content, design, etc, let me know! Always happy to hear people's thoughts. The site is a design site that focuses less on the design itself and more on the conceptual and material processes involved in the creation of said designs. We have some cool interviews coming out soon with other designers that are commonly mentioned on SZ. Won't say which ones though. =)
Haha, hm, the parallax scrolling only occurs in this section of the site - the interviews are one of the special content features we're trying to build out - so I'll keep in mind readability.
We'll want to run some eye tracking tests to see how users engage with the site at a more empirical level, but I'll make a special note to see if the scrolling speed difference becomes too distracting for users. Thanks!
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