The work of Helmut Lang

[ittalidaa]

Techno

[interest1]

Techno

I think that was my first cell phone.

[interest1]

Helmut Lang FW 2002, shot by Jan Welters

[Faust]

I think that was my first cell phone.

This phone used to be the shit!

[interest1]

This phone used to be the shit!

I wasn't joking! I had the blue one. You could speed-text with your eyes closed. I think it's the one Chinorlz was waxing poetic about in the Technology thread a while back, and I wholeheartedly agree with his take.

[Faust]

I think it was Geoffrey B. Small. Mr. Chinorlz is light years ahead of all of us in terms of mobile technology ;-)

[interest1]

You're so right. Apparently, I can't keep my master craftsmen straight until the third shot of Stumptown has been pulled & poured.

Oh alright, one more Lang editorial. Twist my arm.

Helmut on top, Vogue, 2004

[apathy!]

cool thread. Great pics.

Do you think that menswear has become more extreme in its execution recently?

[Faust]

cool thread. Great pics.

Do you think that menswear has become more extreme in its execution recently?

I think you should ease up on speed posting lest you want to get banned and learn some history before asking questions like the one above.

[tricotineacetat]

I think this is a very interesting point and I would be grateful if you could elaborate a little bit. I have a fair amount of stuff from 2002 onwards and I have to say that the quality is OK to good. The suits were never too great imo.

Well, the suits circa FW'2004 were retailing for about 1200€ and most of the fabrics were flimsy Marzotto Super 100's suitings that also Raf Simons would have used at the time. Prices for such fabrics are about half of what Dior would have used for their suits and then there was the cheap fusing which also made the whole product not last long in quality. It was an agony to see such a restraint in fabrics happen to Lang (and even more so at Jil Sander!) as it made the collection hard to compete next to an uprising brand like Dior where the management was willing to proceed with Slimane's very strict demands for quality throughout the entire product range, yet keep the prices relatively competitive (granted it was more expensive than any other designer menswear at that point, but at a level of quality that was much higher than anybody else's at the time). There really wasn't any reason to buy a Lang suit anymore if a better-constructed and fitted one from 'hot cake' Hedi Slimane could be had for very little more.

Where the line remained reasonably well priced was in the entire shoes and accessories' line, which of course is something closer to Prada's original expertise and the reason they expanded in this department so significantly - Since they had bought Church's before, none of the goodyear welted dress shoes cost between 400 - 600€ and most of the sport-constructed combat boots between 300 - 500€.

The problem, other than that, was that a rather rigorous edit of the show collection had been undertaken as a lot of show pieces (such as the foil and crown cap-embellished perfecto jackets from SS'04, some runway shoe models and more complicated dresses from the women's range) were never conceived to be re-produced and thus made directly by the team in NY.

[interest1]

hot for helmut

[michael_kard]

Well, the suits circa FW'2004 were retailing for about 1200€ and most of the fabrics were flimsy Marzotto Super 100's suitings that also Raf Simons would have used at the time. Prices for such fabrics are about half of what Dior would have used for their suits and then there was the cheap fusing which also made the whole product not last long in quality. It was an agony to see such a restraint in fabrics happen to Lang (and even more so at Jil Sander!) as it made the collection hard to compete next to an uprising brand like Dior where the management was willing to proceed with Slimane's very strict demands for quality throughout the entire product range, yet keep the prices relatively competitive (granted it was more expensive than any other designer menswear at that point, but at a level of quality that was much higher than anybody else's at the time). There really wasn't any reason to buy a Lang suit anymore if a better-constructed and fitted one from 'hot cake' Hedi Slimane could be had for very little more.

Where the line remained reasonably well priced was in the entire shoes and accessories' line, which of course is something closer to Prada's original expertise and the reason they expanded in this department so significantly - Since they had bought Church's before, none of the goodyear welted dress shoes cost between 400 - 600€ and most of the sport-constructed combat boots between 300 - 500€.

The problem, other than that, was that a rather rigorous edit of the show collection had been undertaken as a lot of show pieces (such as the foil and crown cap-embellished perfecto jackets from SS'04, some runway shoe models and more complicated dresses from the women's range) were never conceived to be re-produced and thus made directly by the team in NY.

Thank you so much for this info - it's really amazing to gain some of the insight of an insider at the time. A lot of speculation about the original demise of the brand has revolved around Prada's allegedly insufficient support of Lang's ambitious plans, and it appears that this was indeed the case to a large extent. Around 2001ish he was offering such a diverse variety of products -from steel ashtrays to leather-bound pillboxes- and by 2003 the brand was already unwinding.

I can definitely see what you're saying in HL blazers, especially those after 2002 or so. Which is a real shame cos that's when they started getting considerably sharper in my opinion. The few exceptions to this that I have noticed are some of the overcoats, which must have all been absurdly expensive.

The sportswear remained decent throughout I think, but that's probably cos it's easier to make a decent thing when it's not as structured. Interesting to hear about the foil jackets as well-I have been asked five times or so if I can find one..

[Verdandi]

Bless you, ALT for asking the question of all questions: 'Do you wear underwear?'

It's been ten years since his last womenswear show. Dammit.

[malevich]

From Fashion to Art: Helmut Lang’s Second Act

RECENT WSJ ARTICLE

[Faust]

Went to the opening yesterday. It was ok.