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The work of Helmut Lang
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Originally posted by Faust View Post
This phone used to be the shit!.
sain't
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I think it was Geoffrey B. Small. Mr. Chinorlz is light years ahead of all of us in terms of mobile technology ;-)Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by apathy! View Postcool thread. Great pics.
Do you think that menswear has become more extreme in its execution recently?Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by michael_kard View PostI think this is a very interesting point and I would be grateful if you could elaborate a little bit. I have a fair amount of stuff from 2002 onwards and I have to say that the quality is OK to good. The suits were never too great imo.
Where the line remained reasonably well priced was in the entire shoes and accessories' line, which of course is something closer to Prada's original expertise and the reason they expanded in this department so significantly - Since they had bought Church's before, none of the goodyear welted dress shoes cost between 400 - 600€ and most of the sport-constructed combat boots between 300 - 500€.
The problem, other than that, was that a rather rigorous edit of the show collection had been undertaken as a lot of show pieces (such as the foil and crown cap-embellished perfecto jackets from SS'04, some runway shoe models and more complicated dresses from the women's range) were never conceived to be re-produced and thus made directly by the team in NY.
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Originally posted by tricotineacetat View PostWell, the suits circa FW'2004 were retailing for about 1200€ and most of the fabrics were flimsy Marzotto Super 100's suitings that also Raf Simons would have used at the time. Prices for such fabrics are about half of what Dior would have used for their suits and then there was the cheap fusing which also made the whole product not last long in quality. It was an agony to see such a restraint in fabrics happen to Lang (and even more so at Jil Sander!) as it made the collection hard to compete next to an uprising brand like Dior where the management was willing to proceed with Slimane's very strict demands for quality throughout the entire product range, yet keep the prices relatively competitive (granted it was more expensive than any other designer menswear at that point, but at a level of quality that was much higher than anybody else's at the time). There really wasn't any reason to buy a Lang suit anymore if a better-constructed and fitted one from 'hot cake' Hedi Slimane could be had for very little more.
Where the line remained reasonably well priced was in the entire shoes and accessories' line, which of course is something closer to Prada's original expertise and the reason they expanded in this department so significantly - Since they had bought Church's before, none of the goodyear welted dress shoes cost between 400 - 600€ and most of the sport-constructed combat boots between 300 - 500€.
The problem, other than that, was that a rather rigorous edit of the show collection had been undertaken as a lot of show pieces (such as the foil and crown cap-embellished perfecto jackets from SS'04, some runway shoe models and more complicated dresses from the women's range) were never conceived to be re-produced and thus made directly by the team in NY.
I can definitely see what you're saying in HL blazers, especially those after 2002 or so. Which is a real shame cos that's when they started getting considerably sharper in my opinion. The few exceptions to this that I have noticed are some of the overcoats, which must have all been absurdly expensive.
The sportswear remained decent throughout I think, but that's probably cos it's easier to make a decent thing when it's not as structured. Interesting to hear about the foil jackets as well-I have been asked five times or so if I can find one..
ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...
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Went to the opening yesterday. It was ok.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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