Yohji Yamamoto

[Faust]

I shall call the "Fuuma defense" for the sake of the argument. Yohji has been known to veer into camp territory before. If we look at it as campy, it works. The only thing that's too close to CH are the two bottom pieces. But I have a question in turn, as I am no expert - would people say that CH have appropriated the kind of biker jewelery that was there already or was what they did quite original?

[lowrey]

This Gothic collection was introduced almost a year ago I think, but for some reason a bunch of websites picked up on it now as if it was brand new. The whole line can be seen here: http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/gothic/product/

If you want to make the CH comparison, the wallets and belt loops are almost identical to what they make but again neither one invented these, they are based on a very very classic wallet and chain model, for example.

I agree with Faust, its campy and somewhat gaudy, I like some of it. Then again I like CH too.

[panosjapan]

Its tacky.-another quality I dont associate with Yohji.

That's something I can definitely agree with.

[Vinyl Only]

exactly Panos..

A sensible man with a sensible reply....

[k3mist]

anyone know if the video for FW09 womens was ever released? been trying to look everywhere.

[galia]

Wasn't there already a Gothic line in like the 90's? I have a vintage YY men's shirt with a Gothic label that I think is from that era, although I guess it could be more recent (I got it in like 2009/2010 I think)

Edit: I just checked the label, the word is written in all caps but the font isn't gothic. I can post a picture if anyone is geeky enough to be interested

[rider]

yes, there was, early 90's, late 80's I believe. I'm sure the new YY book has a reference in it. I will look and get back to you...

[Vinyl Only]

Yes Galia, please post the shirt!
I came across a GOTHIC button down on Ebay also around 2010. I hadn't seen the label before and was scouring the detail photos to find any hidden skull appliques. My memory tells me it was quite plain in the end. Is this true of the one you purchased?

[#ruin]

I saw this collection linked to the Yohji main site. And just shook my head.

1.The obvious Chrome Hearts vibe feels like a step down for Yohji--to me at least. I dont think of Yohji as chunky, gaudy, in your face, gothic in all caps, grave cherubs with huge clasps or glam-dracula/Rocky Horror Picture show.
If you dont agree with CH issue, ill simply say this lacks all of the grace/privacy that Yohji innately possesses.

2. Calling it GOTHIC on a dog tag size plate in big calligraphic logo drags it down further into hot topic territory. Also, way beneath Yohji.

Its tacky.-another quality I dont associate with Yohji.

he's always dabbled with tacky. there are usually a few items that fit the bill in every collection, for example:

http://www.yoox.com/uk/37632988SJ/item?dept=men#sts=sr_men80&cod10=37632988SJ&sizeId=4

http://www.yoox.com/uk/37596142CW/item?dept=men#sts=sr_men80&cod10=37596142CW&sizeId=4

also, why would chrome hearts be beneath the same designer responsible for Y-3? i like nice wavy black cloth yohji too, but this release really shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone.

[Vinyl Only]

I saw the YOOX links and didn't bother clicking. You can dig up bottom of the barrell tacky by anyone on YOOX. I'll click for a giggle later.

Please. Y-3 is a collab (propaganda notwithstanding) with a heritage sportswear brand. The logo has one letter from Yohjis name. Quite different from GOTHIC BY YOHJI YAMAMOTO in liquid metal calligraphy.

That said, my distaste for this contemporary Yohji Yamamoto GOTHIC incense shop jewelry is neither a case to support Y-3 or a claim that YOHJI is beyond reproach on all levels. What living designer active since the 70s has a perfect track record?

I can at least say Yohji and Rei are two of the very few active since the 70s that I can claim to care a lot about. And with this above-average care comes a relative shock when a jewelry line like this comes about.

I stand by my opinion. It sucks.

One more thing: guitar pick necklace. Ask Upsilonkng to explain how uncool that shit is.

[galia]

Here's the Gothic shirt. Unlike the jewellery, it's quite beautiful, not tacky at all

[stadsvandringar]

Yohji's range has been expanding quite a bit again recently. There's Y-3 and Gothic as already mentioned, as well as Regulation, sYte, and the more recent Ground Y and Yohji Jeans lines. I think these are all attempts at capturing different market segments. Given his past performance this is probably not a bad idea from a business perspective, much like Comme Des Garcons does.

[Faust]

None of this will work. The ship has sailed. Yohji is not CDG.

[Vinyl Only]

Thank you Galia, the collar is GORGEOUS... A nice example of what classic Yohji IS and what the current GOTHIC collection is not.

[Vinyl Only]

Indeed. It seems sad and exploitative rather than the very deliberate moves of Kawakubo (who has always been a businesswoman).

Yes, sad and unnecessarily SELF exploitive. Yohji shouldnt have to mine this trend territory as he was "goth" when Black Sabbath and Kan Mikami were the closest thing to "goth rock". He can do so much better.
I dont have time to post a pic but his classic chain wallet design is soo much better than this.