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Thanks wire, enjoyed looking at those. The only yohji mainline I ever bought was from the two 02 collections. I absolutely loved the SS02 in particular, including the first look - I have the jeans (which were probably my first knowlingly-this-is-ridiculously-unjustifyably expensive-buy-it-anywaypurchase) and a pair of shoes from that collection. I think it's the best use of denim in any "designer" collection I've seen, at least for men (junya probably wins for women).
thanks very much for the pictures and articles, wire. I'd like to see that French Yakuza collection in its entirety - i think his design perfectly captures the fantasy world of Japanese gangsters (i say that because i have no idea what the reality is like, only know what i see through films), and the cinematic elements such as masculine bravado, tough as nails, mysterious, oddly serene as a man in control of his universe and knows exactly how the chess game will end - especially evident through his dressing of the characters in Takeshi Kitano films.
that collection above actually strikes me not so much as French, but rather some kind of working class English hooligan gang who made their money through all that extorting and pimping and decided to spend it on nice clothes, but did not have a clue as to how a suit should fit so they didn't get a typical savile row. rather they probably bullied their tailor into making suits they felt more comfortable to go knuckle someone up in. It's quite brilliant.
wire, the reason I liked the denim so much was not because of the pieces themselves necessarily, but because of how he properly intergrated jeans and denim jackets convincingly into a "high fashion" context. I thought it seemed really fresh, effortless, uncontrived. it was around the same time that junya was doing his first round of collabs with levis, and this was a different way of doing denim. not as "authentic", but in a sense more imaginative. it was also a bit less serious than most YY collections. The quality of the denim and the washes (spotted horse) were also really high. But the prices were mad. I remember seeing the jeans I liked at 545 euros in the YY shop in paris and getting actually angry because I wanted them but could not justify buying jeans at that price. then I bought them later.
YYPH line still has denim from time to time...this season there is a carry over from last winter that is a baggy light blue whiskered jean, but i did not like it because it had some strip of metallic silver tinfoil detail that made them seem not timeless enough.
the non-denim jeans are great though...love the indigo dyed baggy patchwork twill jeans from ss08. too heavy to wear in the summer however, i wonder if they're a carry over as well.
S/S 2000 was the year I started falling in love with Yohji's clothes. I remember buying those super low crotch baggy pants the first time when I was in London.
I will try to post some photos later...still trying to get internet connection at my new place.
Some photos I took from the Antwerp Yohji Yamamoto store:
Repost from purchases thread:
I thought it was quite amazing - and the largest Yohji store that I've seen. The white walls and floors, and the sweeping open spaces really make
the clothes stand out. The abundance of windows allows much natural
light to spill in. The entrance feels free and open, yet the further
you venture inside, there is an increasing sense of intimacy, as there
are less windows and its more quiet - you can't hear the street noise,
nor the music you hear at the entrance.
I was pleasantly surprised
to find that they also carried Limi Feu there (as well as all the other
lines including Y's, Noir, etc.)
let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.
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