If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I know quite a bunch of people that have worked closely with Raf both on his own line as well as Jil Sander over the years and all of them mentioned that his sensitivity was informed exclusively on a visual impact level, hence the reason why most of his fabrics are cheap and not very tactile friendly (and accounting to the reason why Raf has very little input on the Jil Sander womenswear except for a conceptual/editing input, similarily to Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy).
I really enjoy some of the pieces he's made over the years that are more sportswear in craft, but when it comes to real tailoring, Hedi's suiting always excelled that of Raf's.
I have a pair of Raf Simons slim trousers from very high quality spring weight merino wool - one of the best pairs I have ever seen. His early tailoring (circa 99-2002) was impeccably cut and fit spot on. I was not much into tailoring back then, but even I could appreciate it from the side. Granted, he did not have Hedi's resources- if he did, I would imagine it'd be even better.
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
I have a pair of Raf Simons slim trousers from very high quality spring weight merino wool - one of the best pairs I have ever seen. His early tailoring (circa 99-2002) was impeccably cut and fit spot on. I was not much into tailoring back then, but even I could appreciate it from the side. Granted, he did not have Hedi's resources- if he did, I would imagine it'd be even better.
Okay, but fabric sourcing is a whole other thing than the initial tailoring craft - which involves the pattern making and manufacturing control over the piece itself.
The judgement on fit is a difficult one, since every designer has a different body in mind when they create the clothing. So you will obviously find some to fit you better than others, whereas a person of different build might tell you a whole other story. To say as much as that - Hedi's jackets never fit me too well, they were cut for a narrow-shouldered body of a height that ideally didn't exceed 1.75m in a small size.
The only base from which to judge the quality really is the look inside a jacket - How is it interlined, how have the sleeves been inserted? I can't speak about the clothes Raf had made prior to 2002, as I've never handled any of the more tailored pieces from that time in person, but everything I've seen made since then had been a huge let-down in terms of quality - Then I think of someone humble as Stephan Schneider who's jackets can be had for a good amount less, likely with nicer fabrication and exclusively developed fabric and I can only assume that the margin Raf (and his sales people) are cashing must be quite high for what you are getting...
Comment