Geoffrey B. Small

[cremaster]

Geoffrey
There is one picture in the Beuys photo shoot of your clothes that is absolutely perfect.
Makes me think if Beuys was alive today your sartorial skills would be his preferred choice. Although you may have to add a little felt!
Well done to SZ magazine for a stunning photo spread and well done to you for creating such works of beauty.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Dear Cremaster,

Thank you very, very much. We will be posting up our Joseph Beuys story shortly...

Best wishes, Geoffrey

[Geoffrey B. Small]

.

ON JOSEPH BEUYS AND OUR PIECES IN
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE'S TRIBUTE TO THE ARTIST









We were honored to be invited and have some or our work included in a tribute
to the German artist Joseph Beuys in the current issue of Stylezeitgeist Magazine
Volume 2. The GBS NNP03, GS02N and NLWJ05 handmade trouser, shirt and
waistcoat are included in the photo essay shot by Jeff P. Elstone II entitled
‘America Still Likes Me.’ Here exclusively for Stylezeitgeist.com, we provide a closer
look at the pieces used in the iconic photo above dedicated to the artist and his legendary
1974 Art Action “I like America and America likes Me”…






The NLWJ05 babycamel hair hand-built waistcoat



The super limited edition NLWJ05 special waistcoat vest is one of only 12 individually handmade pieces being made for the entire world this season. It was made exclusively from our original 19th century pattern and cut in an exquisitely fine and ultra-soft pure baby camel’s hair woolen fabric woven in Pollone Biella by the world’s oldest woolen mill still in operation today, Fratelli Piacenza 1733 Spa. The spectacular fabric was combined with special pure cotton antique floral print linings from Como, all individually hand dyed in our studios with a special process that required about 12 hours for each piece. The design also features real handmade olive wood buttons made for us in Padova, Italy, hand made besom pockets, and all hand-stitched buttonholes and extensive hand pick-stitch detailing work in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads that required another two and a half hours of expert handwork for a single piece. Each piece is being handsigned and numbered by the designer this season- exclusively for Journal Standard women's stores in Shibuya, Shinjuku, Umeda, Kyoto and Fukuoka, and Johnbull Private labo men's shops in Jingumae, Daikanyama, Shinsaibashi, Kyoto, Okayama and Fukuoka.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

.

The GS02N handmade 22-button shirt



This GS02N handmade shirt design was first introduced in 2009 and has become quite a favorite among our clientele. It features a removable top collar for a true “2-in-1” design concept use for maximum investment value allowing its owner to wear the shirt as a band-collar or classic dress collar design as he or she wishes. The shirt is made using an exceptionally soft and very substantial luxurious super 120’s double-twist pure organic cotton “Venezia” shirting cloth woven for us by L. Parisotto and family in Sarcedo Italy, whom we believe, are by far and away the best cotton and linen fibre weavers of luxury fabrics actively in operation in the world today. The design features a longer proportion fit and cut from our medieval-period collections research, combined with a unique 5-button 17th century reproduction curved sleeve-cuff design, real mother-of-pearl shell buttons made in Padova, and an amazing twenty-two entirely hand-sewn buttonholes with pure silk Bozzolo Reale Seta Milan threads which require about 4 hours of painstaking expert work just to make the buttonholes alone for a single piece. The GS02N has been a commercially success for us, with some 38 pieces having been exclusively commissioned and built since 2009 in various versions of L. Parisotto’s super 120’s double-twist cotton fabric for Kamille in Paris, Hostem in London, Persuade in Bilbao, ‘4’ in Kuwait City, Minority Rev in Ginza & Fukuoka, Al Select in Kichijoji, Arts&Science in Aoyama, and select Journal Standard Ladies Stores in Japan.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

The NNP03 cashmere & wool suspender trouser



Only four examples have been made by hand in the world of the rare NNP03 trouser as photographed in StyleZeitgeist Magazine by Jeff Elstone. Each pair was cut in a very special luxurious heavy medium-coating weight cashmere and wool herringbone cloth woven in Pollone Biella, Italy, by the most respected cashmere-fabric makers in the world, Fratelli Piacenza Spa. Founded in 1733, they are also the world's oldest continuous running family-operated woolen mill. At almost 90 euros per meter wholesale, the trousers have a primary fabric cost of over 180 euros before we even begun to cut and build them in our workrooms. Upon completion of the first 11-hour hand construction phase, the piece was specially dyed by hand, with a very labor-intensive technique in our studios that requires at least 7 more hours of expert treatment work, followed by buttonhole and button detailing work and suspender construction and assemblies, resulting in a marvelous cold-weather garment that is both soft, warm, and extremely comfortable and durable. Think of the old flannel lined L.L.Bean hunting trousers but executed at an entirely different level of design, performance and aesthetics and you can begin to get an idea of what these rare super-trousers are all about.


With a goal to provide its owner at least several decades of sustainable and ethical use and wear, the piece features generous seam allowances on all major fitting seams which can provide a competent tailor, alteration capability up to 2 sizes up or down as the owner's body sizing changes over time. The trouser also features hand stitched and taped leg hems, special hand-cut vintage recycle garment leather suspenders made by hand in our studios, special buttons in real leather, made for us in Parma Italy by Claudio and Cinzia Fontana, and real hand sewn buttonholes with pure silk Bozzolo Reale Seta Milan threads (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut and sew). First introduced in Paris in January 2010. using the PXP11 base pattern and leg shaping, one piece of the NNP03 was commissioned and created for Kamille in Paris for the Fall/Winter 2010 season, and 3 pieces were built and delivered to Hostem in London in 2011. Each of the pieces were signed and numbered at Cavarzere, Venezia.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

[Geoffrey B. Small]

.

When the people behind StyleZeitgeist Magazine asked me for some clothes to do the
shoot a few months ago for a tribute to the German artist and his legendary action, I honestly had some mixed feelings. Since about 2006, I normally send nothing to magazines anymore- for a long list of reasons. But when asked if I knew anything about Beuys, and the fact that it was the people behind SZ who were asking (whom I respect very much,) I decided on this occasion, I would take the risks and send clothes for the shoot. As it turned it out, we happened to have just about exactly the right pieces to emulate what Beuys wore during his epic action, and the photos and story were beautifully executed

You can view a preview of the shoot here...

http://www.sz-mag.com/news/2012/02/joseph-beuys-america-still-likes-me/

Some background on Beuys and his 1974 Action

Joseph Beuys' May 1974 art performance "I Like America and America Likes Me" paved the way for a new generation of German avant-garde artists in the 1980's including Markus Lüpertz, Georg Baselitz, Anselm Kiefer and many others. But Beuys was far more than just another "modern artist."

A profound artist and humanitarian of Dusseldorf, he often used felt as a protective material (also lard). During WWII, he was shot down over Siberia and rescued by the locals who wrapped his frozen body in lard and felt. His intense experiences surrounding and during the second world war led him to also to become a prolific activist as well. (More here...http://musingsofanartstudent.blogspo...eph-beuys.html).

A lifetime of Messages through Art and Activism

Beuys founded (or co-founded) the German Student Party (1967), the Organization for Direct Democracy Through Referendum (1971), the Free International University for Creativity and Interdisciplinary Research (1974), and the German Green Party Die Grünen (1980). Beuys became a pacifist (he had previously served as a German Luftwaffe piloting in World War II), was a vocal opponent of nuclear weapons and campaigned strenuously for environmental causes. He was also elected a Green Party candidate for the European Parliament.

A text from the Walker Art Museum further explains…

"Beuys' actions were often described as intimate, autobiographical, politically charged, and intense. Actions would typically last 45 minutes to nine hours, and though his actions were not rehearsed, Beuys often created a score or "partitur" (as opposed to a script) in which he would plan the objects that would be used and the sequence of the performance. Beuys viewed each action as a new version of a basic theme and an attempt to make his philosophy more comprehensible. He also believed that the less literal the performances were, the easier it would be for the audience members to translate his message into their own lives.

Beuys traveled to the United States in 1974 and performed an action entitled 'I like America and America Likes Me' at the René Block Gallery in New York. The action actually began at Kennedy Airport, where friends wrapped him in felt and transported him to the gallery in an ambulance. Beuys then spent several days in a room with only a felt blanket, a flashlight, a cane that looked like a shepherd's staff, copies of the Wall Street Journal (which were delivered daily), and a live coyote. His choice of employing a coyote was perhaps an acknowledgment of an animal that holds great spiritual significance for Native Americans, or a commentary on a country that through its Western expansion had become 'lost' America."



To learn more on Joseph Beuys' legendary 1974 action you can:


*View the documentary by Katrien Jacobs on Beuys and 'I Like America and America Likes Me'
here... http://vimeo.com/29225407



*Listen to excerpts from a talk with Joseph Beuys at Cooper Union in NYC...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilSCTFFZmsk&feature=related

*Watch some of the original 1974 Action on film here below:






In a world where so much of both Contemporary Art and Fashion have become so dominated by big-money and other... for lack of a better word... bling-related interests, perhaps a good look at Joseph Beuys and his more-timely-than-ever body of works, could be a very refreshing, and positive thing.


Hats off to SZ, StyleZeitgeist Magazine, and everyone involved with the shoot, and with many thanks for thinking of us and inviting us to be a part of it.

Thanks for reading.
Best wishes,

Geoffrey







StyleZeitgeist magazine Volume 2 is available at selected retailers
worldwide and online at www.SZ-mag.com

.

[Faust]

Thank you, Geoffrey, for taking the time to explain the kind of work that went into the clothes and for your support with the shoot. Personally, I count this photo shoot one of the proudest moments not only for StyleZeitgeist magazine, but for myself as well. Hats off to everyone involved:

The photographer Jeff Elstone
The stylist Jenesee Utley
The model Seijo Imazaki, who as an incredibly good sport
Jeff's friends and their dog, Colm.
Zam Barrett for providing the studio space free of charge
Daniel Franco for shlepping upstate to get hay
Mike Nouveau for letting us raid his closet for some Paul Harnden
And all the designers who have lent us the clothes.

[cremaster]

After a dozen books on Beuys I still find him somewhat of a mystery.

One of those artists with a shamanistic touch, he could imbue great presence in everyday objects. His influence undeniable although I class him as a dangerous artist - many have had a go at him few have been able to develop his ideas.

One of my favorite artists referenced by one of my favorite designers,commissioned by one of my favorite magazines.

Perfect.

[zamb]

Brilliant!

[Geoffrey B. Small]

'

Dear Friends,


S OME very nice coverage now out in the AW2012 Collections issue of Uomo Collezioni magazine.
We thank the editors at Uomo Collezioni, and super-photographer Guido Barbagelata (Milan) for their kind support and coverage,
particularly in light of the controversial nature of the theme and message of our collection this season during a presidential
election year in the United States. Perhaps, similar challenges now occurring across Europe helped play a role. Uomo Collezioni
is published in Italy and is the leading industry print publication for international fashion runway show coverage.
Please find copy of the article below. Hope to post more news, articles and work soon.

Thank you for reading.

Best wishes,

Geoffrey B. Small

'

[Geoffrey B. Small]

.

Coming up soon...


Geoffrey B. Small
New Works: September 2012

exclusively for Stylezeitgeist.com


.

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Pixels.Mosaics.Patchworks

.

For the record: (June 2008) Pixels.Mosaics.Patchworks


IN reference to the lively and ongoing "Next" thread on SZ, for the record, I am posting here an essay I wrote in early June of 2008 at the request of editorial staff at Surface magazine, who were working on covering the men's NewYork-Milan-Paris SS2009 collections. Upon submission of the material, the editorial staff at Surface suddenly refused to publish it, reasoning that it was "far too big a design idea… it is the kind of thing that would impact everything in fashion," rather than what their managing editors were looking for--which really seemed to be just a superfluous trend and photos piece. After challenging their thinking, I told them that I had no interest in that kind of story. I knew that the material I had penned down was worth far more than a tear-sheet in Surface, so I kept it for my own firm's use, where it has become a manifesto of sorts, and the basis of much of our recent success over the past few years during one of the most difficult and challenging periods our industry has ever seen.

While the most current updated version remains accessible only through our internal use and via our authorized retail partners and clients, the original 2008 text of the article in its complete and unabridged form, is being posted here on the GBS thread for a limited time as part of the "Next" discussion (from which a link is being supplied to this posting). While, certain details within the piece have been modified and changed during the past four years (and 17 Paris collections)- as well as some key developments including the collaborations with Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo involving our exclusive and unprecedented organic fibre fabric collections that began in mid-2009, and making our private website service available only through selected authorized retail partners - the material is as valid today (if not more so) than when it was written. It was also instrumental in our being covered and asked to write the introductory foreword of the industry's first design book on sustainable fashion in 2010 ("Eco-Fashion" Sass Brown, Laurence King Publishers Ltd., London UK). You can click on the graphic below to access the text.

More coming up soon.

Best wishes, Geoffrey...

[Geoffrey B. Small]

Dear Soren/Kotstulle,

Sorry but concerning the children, if they are really starving and you were really donating, you should continue to donate to them instead of buying more clothes, mine, or anybody else's. You will get along for sure. But not them. Concerning your pants with the latte spill, you probably do not need to put them in a washing machine. Tell me what article they are, (if you really bought them) and I will be glad to help you out. As for all your friends envying you because they can't afford the gbs pieces you have, I don't really believe you... Kotstulle. If you know anything about me, my work, and all the people with whom I work to make it happen, including plenty of community and non-profit organizations who help lots and lots of people every single day, you would be surprised at what some people have paid me for some of our clothes. Not all of it is so expensive as you are trying to make it out to be. Thank you for your post, I hope it is not a joke. I don't have a macbook air, I cannot afford to drink Starbucks latte's at all, and yeah, I do eat mainly vegetarian because it costs me less than meat and frankly, it digests a lot easier and gives me more energy to work my 12-16 hours a day and also deal with comments like yours. In the old days, the people who ran this thing didn't put up with that kind of behaviour and you would have been banned. Maybe they should check you out. So what is your deal Kotstulle Soren?

Geoffrey

[mortalveneer]

GBS garments (however sustainably made) ≠ truly charitable use of money

I hope this was some kind of sloppy joke.