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Geoffrey B. Small

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  • Geoffrey B. Small
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2007
    • 618

    (continued from above: the new EVJ13special for Hotoveli)

    ...only 3 pieces of this special version of the super limited edition EVJ13
    jacket design were made by hand in the entire world, each of them
    exclusively for Hotoveli in New York City….

    We cordially invite you to contact or visit the store to begin to
    experience these remarkable examples of our latest sartorial work
    in person.

    As always, thanks for reading.
    Best wishes,

    Geoffrey & the Team



    • Faust
      kitsch killer
      • Sep 2006
      • 37849

      So the new stuff at Hotoveli yesterday. SO BEAUTIFUL!
      Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

      StyleZeitgeist Magazine


      • NoisyArmchair
        Senior Member
        • Mar 2014
        • 120

        When's exclusive Hostem pieces? I need to grope more of your work with my mani povera.


        • augustinn
          • Sep 2013
          • 48

          Hotoveli jacket is lovely


          • TabulaRasa
            • Jun 2014
            • 69

            Geoffrey B Small EVJ03 Linen Jacket

            Very happy to have been able to acquire one of Geoffrey's EVJ03 jackets from Eth0s just the other day. Had I known about the EVJ13 I may have held off but I'm still a very contented man.
            The music I make.


            • Geoffrey B. Small
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2007
              • 618

              Thank you so much Faust, augustinn, NoisyArmchair and TabulaRasa for your
              kind comments. Tabula, the EVJ03 is a spectacular piece which features the
              best of our extreme handmade technology jacket making including fully hand-
              padstitched canvas front and collar construction and superlight fabric, thank
              you so much for your investment in our work and support for Eth0s.
              NoisyArmchair, we will feature some of the pieces created for Hostem soon,
              in the meantime I would like to show a little more of Hotoveli's recent collection
              delivery pieces. Continuing on the same beautiful hand dyed linen stripe which
              the EVJ13special above has using a very slim historical pattern cut and fit, in
              order to accommodate clients seeking a more relaxed fit- a special version of
              the super limited edition LUJ14 double-breasted jacket design was also
              specially made for Hotoveli....

              One of only 2 pieces made by hand in the entire world exclusively for
              Hotoveli in New York. It was created from our own exclusive double-
              breasted unlined blazer pattern...

              using remarkable real olive wood buttons made for us in Padova, and
              real hand stitched buttonholes (each one requires 8-10 minutes to cut
              and sew) in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads...

              The piece also features beautiful interior taped seam finishing using
              special Italian satin trims...

              And a superb double-stitched french seamed center back construction
              with elegant center-vent styling and construction...

              and cut in a very special greggio organic striped pure linen (which was
              not treated or finished with any chemicals) woven for us exclusively by
              Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo...

              Each individually hand dyed in our studios using a process which
              required a minimum of 8 hours of work for a single piece to achieve
              its special color and patina effects.



              • Geoffrey B. Small
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2007
                • 618

                (continued from above: special pieces for Hotoveli


                there are also some incredible handmade shirting pieces in the collection such
                as this special version of the GS02 shirt design …

                created in a remarkable new hand dyed silk and cotton super 120's double-
                twisted yarn fabric developed exclusively for us by Luigi Parisotto...

                With real mother-of-pearl buttons, beautifully finished all french seam interiors,
                and of course, our wonderful pure silk Bozzolo thread handmade buttonholes
                throughout on the shirt's 14 buttonholes which took almost 3 hours of super-
                skilled work to create for each single shirt...

                One of only 5 pieces made by hand in the entire world exclusively
                for Hotoveli in New York...

                The design also features a removable top collar for a true “2-in-1” design
                concept use for extra long-term wear and investment value- providing both
                collared and band-collared ways to wear it (2 looks in one) as well as giving
                you invaluable longer term double protection against wearing out the collar
                fabric--the precise area where most tailored shirts normally wear out…



                • Geoffrey B. Small
                  Senior Member
                  • Nov 2007
                  • 618

                  (continued from above: special pieces for Hotoveli)


                  "Super-Trouser" Redefined- one of just five in the world

                  AN incredible piece of tailoring mastery. When we first set out to create this design, our goal was to stretch the horizon of hand work technologies for what the designer market today has seen and experienced when it comes to trousers. From our extensive tailoring research, we decided upon an original authentic early 1900's super hand detail work reproduction trouser pattern that on first glance by our top team of designer tailors... looked impossible to be able to recreate in today's world and at today's labor costs and skill sets- not to mention what the average designer store retailer believes is the limit for a pair of pants to be priced at these days with all the so-called crises in the market and the economy and the whatever other excuse somebody is always coming up with to make up for mediocre merchandise offerings. But, we decided to try. And after successfully building and introducing it to the world in Paris, the design began to generate orders from our best store clients inspite of the fact that it would have to retail at more than a typical jacket from most any other designer's collection. Even in tiny series though, the article was an enormous challenge to produce at any price--quite simply, it is a complex, mountain of work with stringent spec requirements that forced our people to stretch to new levels of total excellence, discipline, and yes, determination--to remind ourselves of our simple single unified objective: to be able to make the best handmade clothes in the world today. And show the world what is still possible, and what is still so beautiful that it merits its right and honorable place in a marketplace fast being filled with little better than printed raincoats and t-shirts made in Bangladesh or tim-buk-tu with nothing more than a catchy slogan to merit its obviously exaggerated price tag. For those who fall for and give away their (obviously not hard-earned) money on that pitifully sad excuse for a modern designer collection concept, we say go ahead... and smile to ourselves at both the vapidity and the stupidity of some members of the human race. Obviously, having money to spend and having a basic level of intelligence do not necessarily go hand in hand these days. We on the other hand have a different cause and a different mission, and our work is dedicated to a different level of human being with a different level of taste, investment value and moral compass. For that kind of person, we will expend blood, sweat and tear to create, build, and deliver the GBS NVP02. A true Super-Trouser. It is undoubtedly one of the most unique and rare examples of extreme hand made clothing technology being created anywhere in the world today, especially when it comes to a pair of trousers. And we are damn proud to be able to say that we, this team of human beings, who have no fear of technical sartorial challenge, no matter how difficult to aspire to, no matter how maniacally impossible the odds, in a world where nobody knows how to make nothin' anywhere anymore and is even more unwilling to pay for it... that we, and perhaps we alone, can and do make this trouser today--in this world. I provide a quick rundown here to begin to explain why. First, it is in pattern cut, fit and build an exact replica of a 1905 English marine tailored trouser. Anybody who knows about making exact historical clothing replicas or duplicating tailored garments well, will know already the difficulties that would have been encountered and dealt with to achieve this kind of result…

                  For fabric, a very special herringbone weave heavier-weight linen woven
                  exclusively for us in Varese Italy was chosen to create the piece, then specially
                  hand dyed in our studios with special processes which took about 8 hours
                  for each piece to achieve its marvelous patina, softness, and unique effects...

                  The design also features a stunning interior perfectly following the
                  original early 1900's example that is full of extreme handsewn
                  finishing details all around the completely hand-built waistline, lining
                  skirt, crotch sections, and even hems and hem bottom protectors of
                  the trouser...



                  • Geoffrey B. Small
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2007
                    • 618

                    (continued from above: the NVP02special for Hotoveli)

                    The split-center back, and back-belt waist adjuster provides elegant
                    classic comfort and adjustability...

                    along with ultra-personalized hand made suspenders in vintage recycle
                    handcut leathers with special weave linen,cotton and viscosa tapes
                    and cording custom-designed and assembled in our own workrooms
                    and leather buckles made for us in Padova...

                    A study in details: for example fine machined-work secondary reinforcement
                    seaming executed with extreme precision and accuracy throughout the entire
                    piece's construction which further added to the exaggerated and lengthy
                    building process. Note too, that every double, or triple-stitch seam (as in the
                    photo below) is performed in our workrooms using single-needle equipment
                    as per the original turn-of-the-century piece and technique. We are purists at
                    the Via Spalato Sartoria, we do not use any double-needle or triple-needle
                    machines. So remember, this work takes 2-3 times more work and time than
                    it would in a typical jeans type of factory operation using multiple-needle
                    machinery. But it would never, ever, look, feel, or be as beautiful as this...

                    as well the amazing special advanced design buttons (look at them carefully,
                    that is not plastic folks... that is real horn) made exclusively for us in Parma
                    by Italy’s greatest living button-makers, Claudio and Cinzia Fontana...

                    and of course, our signature hand stitched buttonholes that require 8-10
                    minutes for each one in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano Seta threads,
                    to complement the extensive handstitched interior detail work...

                    Detail after detail: here the perfect reproduction of the elegant chevron
                    shaped top-seaming detail work with minute, super-tight stitch length
                    normally used on fine shirtwork from the original early 1900's design...

                    The special version of the super limited edition NVP02 trouser design is
                    one of only 5 pieces made by hand in the entire world, just 3 of which
                    were created for all of North America, each exclusively for Hotoveli in
                    New York...

                    One of the most intricately studied and constructed trousers in the world
                    today, even more so when you consider that with all its unending and minute
                    precise details, it was not built on a line production where different people
                    could focus on a specific operation in large quantities, but by a single human
                    being, one of our super-tailors at Via Spalato, who had to build each piece
                    entirely by him or herself. Indeed, we challenge any firm out there, large or
                    small, to match this growing level of sartorial and technical supremacy that is
                    taking place within our incredible creative and production operations at
                    Cavarzere. We cordially invite you to contact the store in NY to begin to
                    experience this incredible trouser in person…

                    next up: 2 remarkable new pieces for Gotham summer and fun.



                    • old
                      Senior Member
                      • Jul 2009
                      • 132

                      Wow, the neckpoint is aligned with the armscye on this one! And the shoulder seam on the bias! amazing historical patterns Geoffrey!
                      Tradition ist Bewahrung des Feuers und nicht Anbetung der Asche.


                      • DNHT
                        Junior Member
                        • Dec 2015
                        • 23

                        Geoffrey, please say that there'll be some of those trousers in Hostem...


                        • t3hg0suazn
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2013
                          • 199

                          Check Hostem Instagram - they've been showcasing a lot of GBS. There were some trousers if iirc.


                          • DNHT
                            Junior Member
                            • Dec 2015
                            • 23

                            ^ Thanks; good thought. Looks like another pair...will have to go see them in the flesh.


                            • Geoffrey B. Small
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2007
                              • 618

                              2 Pieces for Gotham fun when it gets hot now for Hotoveli

                              Thank you old, DNHT, t3hg0suazn...
                              please note: for discussions on some of Hostem's delivery pieces, we are planning a presentation here later. For now though, I would like to show 2 more pieces from the Hotoveli delivery that I think are both interesting and great fun to create, and to wear - especially in New York when weather gets hot. The first uses some of our early recycle twin-set design techniques that we pioneered in the '90's which merged vastly different types of garments together into intriguing new metamorphoses that worked-in new combinations which at that time had never been seen or done before. Today, we apply these ideas to new fabric, cut and constructed from scratch, into the final idea instead of simply starting with existing used or vintage garments and merging them. The old way using recycling is far more efficient in many ways and sometimes easier to perform technically--but today we are making new garments from scratch far more than recycled ones for a wide range of reasons too numerous to get into right now. So here, we have a striking extreme handwork piece that we call a "shirt/jacket" which not only puts together two entirely different design patterns and garment construction technologies, but also merges two incredibly special super-artisan fabrics created only for us by Luigi Parisotto in Sarcedo and the Colombina family in Badoere... and represents a marvelous example of our unparalleled research, development and collaboration with the very best of 'Made in Italy' textile and component makers still working today.

                              Now, for the few people out there who know something about making clothes, especially in prototype and sample quantities, you may appreciate the difficulties and challenges that this kind of sartorial merging of so many different elements: patterns, constructions, and materials into a single unified piece, might create and present to those who must try to make it. While our "Assemblage" Paris collection in 2014 raised this technology to unprecedented levels, this project as part of "Radicallissimo" marked our first attempts to work with a real totally handwoven fabric- which due to its own unique characteristics, presented a whole new set of sartorial working and practical challenges. This is not an easy piece to create, but in the end it is truly worth the effort, and we felt it was important to present and share it here exclusively on StyleZeitgeist.

                              A Hotoveli exclusive for all of the U.S. and North America, the super limited edition RSS09 notch-lapel shirt/jacket design is one of only 3 pieces made by hand in the entire world- of which, just 2 pieces were created exclusively for Hotoveli in New York City...

                              The RSS09's handmade shirt component was created by hand by
                              combining our longer proportion fit and cut shirt from our medieval
                              period research, and cut using a luxurious superlux stripe in Super
                              120’s double-twist pure organic Venezia cotton shirting woven for us in
                              Sarcedo, Italy by Luigi Parisotto...

                              Then combined with a notch-lapel, single-breasted jacket shape cut and
                              built in exclusive handwoven silk and linen fabric woven for us by the
                              Colombo family at Tessitura Colombina in Badoere di Morgano, Treviso
                              (see our post last fall on Examen Reginae to learn more), where it took
                              a full day working on one of their original 18th century wooden looms,
                              carefully kept and maintained for generations, to make enough cloth
                              just to make a single one of these pieces...

                              The components were then specially hand dyed and hand washed in a
                              time consuming double-separated process to achieve their special
                              color and patina effects, for extra aging and softness...

                              Extensive hand stitch detail and finishing work and antique Venetian
                              novelty weave linen and cotton trim were utilized to form the junction
                              of the two hand built assemblies...

                              In our first experience working with La Colombina's exquisite hand
                              loomed work, and as the weave was significantly looser and more open
                              than fabrics created on power looms, our top people in the sartoria
                              expressed serious concerns about trying to execute either our signature
                              handmade welt and besom pockets as well as our handmade buttonholes.
                              Each of these operations required cutting the fabric and making extremely
                              precise stitch work, and the possibility of the fabric yarns unraveling
                              uncontrollably during the process could easily risk ruining the garment
                              at that point. As the precious and narrow 90cm wide fabric piece had
                              only arrived to our workrooms about a week before we had to present
                              our collection in Paris, we decided that we did not have adequate time
                              or fabric to research and test techniques to perform these operations,
                              so we decided to eliminate putting the Colombina's beautiful work (and
                              expensive that piece was costing us about 400 euros alone)- at risk
                              and avoid welt pockets and buttonholes and use other appropriate
                              sartorial options. Later as we developed the groundbreaking "Examen
                              Reginae" collection for women, we were able to develop and master
                              both handcut welt/besom pocket-making and handsewn buttonhole
                              operations on totally hand-loomed fabrics and today, they are counted
                              as yet another one of our extreme handmade clothing technologies of
                              which we are alone in being able to perform beautifully, efficiently, and
                              yes, profitably, in this industry. Another example of our growing sartorial
                              supremacy that I must continue to emphasize, is totally unique in the
                              world today. So in the end, for the RSS09, beautiful Italian metal
                              "automatica" buttons were hand sewn to the piece using pure Bozzolo
                              silk threads. Part of this decision was aesthetic, but another was

                              A phenomenal blood red and beige antique venetian linen and cotton
                              lace was chosen to accent hemlines at shirt bodice and sleeve cuff in a
                              clear, unmistakeably personalized manner that would immediately tip
                              off any onlooker that this was no factory-made or common commercial
                              fast-fashion or corporate-luxury brand garment...

                              ditto the real mother-of-pearl buttons made for us in Padova on the
                              sleeve cuffs...

                              and naturally, the real hand sewn buttonholes (each one requires 8-10
                              minutes to cut and sew) in luxurious pure silk Bozzolo Reale Milano
                              Seta threads on the shirting cuffs...



                              • Geoffrey B. Small
                                Senior Member
                                • Nov 2007
                                • 618

                                (continued from above)


                                One of only three in the world. The RSS09 is created for someone clearly
                                a world apart from the H&M, Net-A-Porter, and Barneys NY type of crowd.
                                We cordially invite you to contact the store and begin to experience this
                                amazing piece of extreme handmade technology and research in person.
                                Next, a look at a super dress for summer in New York...