Isn't trying not to be marketed still a marketing-strategy? When it comes to it he still wants his clothes to sell. I don't think he gives a fuck about whether or not he comes out on top.
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Paul Harnden
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I must admit that I'm not familiar with Paul Harnden's work at all but from what I've seen so far I get the impression that he has a very strong historical and sociological interest in clothing as many of us have in connection with clothes (e.g. lower class clothing thread). In comparison to poell I find poell's work a lot more difficult to cut down (to the core of interest). His interest is obviously multilayered/ influences far from fashion brought in and strongly disguised through fashion.
To compare the two is really difficult cause imo Poell is the master when it comes to being unique, authentic and still remaining obscure. But is obscurity the goal or just a side-effect? There are also two sides to it.. a) the presentation of your clothes and b) the presentation of your brand.
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Don't think anyone was comparing their clothes per se? Just the way they operate.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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I don't think so at all. Harnden seems like a much easier guy to figure out - he has a schtik, which is basically sartorial atavism. Poell doesn't have a schtik as far as I can see. I can see Poell scrapping the entire thing tomorrow and doing something else entirely - can't say the same thing about Harnden.
The only thing unites their clothing is that they are both artisans.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.
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Originally posted by C'est Fini View PostWhat I did say is that they are both forward yet timeless in their own right.let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.
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what i mean Avantster, is that the silhoutte,aesthetic is forward in that antiquarian, future-primitive avant-garde fashion that many of us here adore.
The clothes are most definitely modern, the construction is not simple. the fact that he shrinks every jacket down to its respective size in proportion is quite a feat. There is a beautiful multi-layered mens silk jacket at leclaireur that one MUST have a look at- just amazing!
I mean the man isnt just some dickensian costumier.
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Originally posted by C'est Fini View Postwhat i mean Avantster, is that the silhoutte,aesthetic is forward in that antiquarian, future-primitive avant-garde fashion that many of us here adore.
The clothes are most definitely modern, the construction is not simple. the fact that he shrinks every jacket down to its respective size in proportion is quite a feat. There is a beautiful multi-layered mens silk jacket at leclaireur that one MUST have a look at- just amazing!
I mean the man isnt just some dickensian costumier.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by C'est Fini View Postwhat i mean Avantster, is that the silhoutte,aesthetic is forward in that antiquarian, future-primitive avant-garde fashion that many of us here adore.
The clothes are most definitely modern, the construction is not simple. the fact that he shrinks every jacket down to its respective size in proportion is quite a feat. There is a beautiful multi-layered mens silk jacket at leclaireur that one MUST have a look at- just amazing!
I mean the man isnt just some dickensian costumier.
Someone wearing a complete outfit by him would probably look at home in a Julien Dupré painting. I don't think that's a bad thing, either.
I even have a beautiful silk scarf of his that has a print of British Grasses from a book by William Curtis the botanist (printed in 1804).
Yes the construction techniques are not simple but if anything, once again they are a reminder of times past when all clothes were made by hand. In a way he is just out there doing his thing, keeping the flame alive for the fewer and fewer artisans left in this world.
I've also mentioned it before, the multi layered silk jacket you speak of is certainly something else in it's puffy fragility, inevitably to tear and ladder with wear.. something to wear every day.let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.
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/\ Thank you for bringing things into perspective here.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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considering the old work techniques Harnden is so praised for I was wondering if people who have been around hip product for a while feel about it's consistency over time. I handled some of the newer shoes and was not at all impressed by the workmanship or quality of materials. Sole leather was the cheap kind usually only used in women's shoes and the fit had issues too. The heel area was far too boxy leaving me wondering how they were to stay on your feet.
It's been suggested to me that the emphasis has moved to the clothes and the shoes are now secondary. Just wondered what others thought?
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Originally posted by Faust View Post
ok..
Some of the techniques used in pauls clothes are not old world by any means, i guess to the formally trained person things might seem different. My perspective is from a desginers end.
Avantster, dare i say that if it isnt to be called avant-garde then what would one call it. Period dressing? Definitely not. There is certainly a lot of thought that has been put into his clothes and I think he deserves due credit.
People certainly didnt have Nylon/poly/silk raincoats back in the day.
Asho, yes the focus seems to have shifted more towards the clothes, the total look one could say, rather than just the shoes.
Why do you say the soles are meant for womenswear? is it because they are thin?- I think its a design decision more than anything.
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