See what happens, Avantster? You make a nice post, and no one cares. People want arguments. Hegel always wins.
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Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by obsolete View PostMy PH jacket is a coarse wool, something I wouldn't dress my worst enemy in.
I cannot get my head around the fact that people make and wear clothes in such unpleasant , itchy etc fabrics.
I will always choose a YY silk / wool gaberdine over a CDG boiled wool anyday. In fact i would rather wear American Apparel than something that made me itch
I understand it may look good but unless you are going to hang it up and look at it why would you want to suffer wearing it ?
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Originally posted by STEALTH View PostThis is where my PH opinion begins and ends
I cannot get my head around the fact that people make and wear clothes in such unpleasant , itchy etc fabrics.
I will always choose a YY silk / wool gaberdine over a CDG boiled wool anyday. In fact i would rather wear American Apparel than something that made me itch
I understand it may look good but unless you are going to hang it up and look at it why would you want to suffer wearing it ?
btw, "unexplored regions of male drag" is the single best phrase I've read to describe Rick
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Originally posted by STEALTH View PostThis is where my PH opinion begins and ends
I cannot get my head around the fact that people make and wear clothes in such unpleasant , itchy etc fabrics.
I will always choose a YY silk / wool gaberdine over a CDG boiled wool anyday. In fact i would rather wear American Apparel than something that made me itch
I understand it may look good but unless you are going to hang it up and look at it why would you want to suffer wearing it ?
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Originally posted by huckleberry View PostI had this problem with my raf knit, I love it to bits as I personally think it looks great. However as with many raf knits it is itchy and I didnt wear it once for the whole of the summer because it was too hot without a longsleeve tshirt under it and too itchy without. I'm glad I've kept it because its winter (cold already not actually winter, england sucks) now and I do really love it, however I would never make the mistake of buying something that causes me to be uncomfortable again.
I always thought Raf Simons quality was on a par with Top Shop.
Especially his much vaunted tailoring which i thought looked like it was made out of cardboard and then softened up
That is why I think Rick has been such a big hit.
He made his name / ushered in / debuted a whole generation of wearable softer fabrics which everyone else inevitably wanted to / had to use and which made everyone else who used them look like band-wagon jumpers and people like PH ( who did not )look like edgy outsiders : )
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Originally posted by surver View Postamongst all this extraneous discussion away from PH, wondering if anyone has any updates/news on PH lately?
I have to say, though I am not a fan of his work by and large, the jacket Avanster got is absolutely stellar. SBW has the same one, so something must be in the air. I woulnd't mind owning that too...Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by STEALTH View PostI always thought Raf Simons quality was on a par with Top Shop.
Especially his much vaunted tailoring which i thought looked like it was made out of cardboard and then softened up
That is why I think Rick has been such a big hit.
He made his name / ushered in / debuted a whole generation of wearable softer fabrics which everyone else inevitably wanted to / had to use and which made everyone else who used them look like band-wagon jumpers and people like PH ( who did not )look like edgy outsiders : )Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by C'est Fini View PostAvantster, dare i say that if it isnt to be called avant-garde then what would one call it. Period dressing? Definitely not. There is certainly a lot of thought that has been put into his clothes and I think he deserves due credit.
People certainly didnt have Nylon/poly/silk raincoats back in the day.
Originally posted by obsolete View PostI'm not necessarily comparing the two jackets, but pointing out consumers romanticize certain designers and their techniques. Maybe they do this to justify the high price tag.
Originally posted by deleuze View PostAlbert's holy grail kaleidoscope jester hat or CCP on Mister Black's fire engine chef shirt.
Two absolute classics.let us raise a toast to ancient cotton, rotten voile, gloomy silk, slick carf, decayed goat, inflamed ram, sooty nelton, stifling silk, lazy sheep, bone-dry broad & skinny baffalo.
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Originally posted by Avantster View PostHe seems to be happy living in relative obscurity, just out there, doing his thing. This is of course, speculation on my behalf. Perhaps those who have had the pleasure of meeting him could shed more light on the matter.
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I went down to his studio not too long ago before summer,
its down a tiny tiny lane most people would miss, a few minutes from the beach, behind a pub, next to a Lingerie store.
His studio has no signs on the door, just an old collection of nick nacks, some old old toys, old war signs etc, boxes pilled up saying AW 05, SS03, dusty and dirty god knows whats in them.
It seems like a special place, he works for him self not for fashion
obviously he has to deliver on time to keep the shops happy but he probally only sells to enough shops to cover his bar tabs around brighton. He works when he wants and when he needs to, you wont find him there 9-5 monday to friday.
I liked the quirkyness the place seem to have; the fact he had a mouse hole cut out in the back of his gate, it was oversized a bit so probably for his dog or a cat he may have.
If he could sell enough clothes in brighton then he probably would just do that, his work is his work. He doesn't sell it with any manifesto (unlike other people in fashion) so simply if we don't like it, don't feel its worth the money, then don't buy it.
Wether i like his silhouette or garments, I can respect him, he is doing something so far away to normal fashion, its closer to the shoemakers you could see on the side of the road in India or Malaysia, this is all my personal opinion..
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he used to be seen walking around in paris wearing toy dentures.
his crazy sense of humor might make it look a bit like avant-garde sometimes.
but avant-garde is something more familiar to promethean or apollonian either of which he keeps at a certain distance.
also criteria such as spi etc definitely belong to the two, and are not so related to him in the first place. things like labor (alienated one), effort, order, perfection are what he would not boast of (even though he pours some of them into his work). he washes it because he doesn't want it to look like the product by the two above.
"native american" was the original inspiration to him as a designer. he seems to still let it lie deep at heart although his stuff may appear to be of peasant on the surface.
as keeping a horse can be more costly than owning a nice car, his work might not be so efficient and rational. for his prices, you could easily find lots of other things that are more excellent by the standard of those two.
but there is another value maybe called dionysian. something that rationality is poor at explaining that therefore has been repressed. it is more related to transparent or invisible stuff such as the reason to live. so in a way it is "romanticization". but from its viewpoint what rationality brings about is only decolorization, bleaching (actually rationality, if really clear, will have to face lots of issues it cannot answer after its own thorough investigation).
he seems to want to be closer to the third, and some find it more compatible and feel at ease with it.
and generally I admit that a garment becomes a bit special garment to my eye when I know "a well it hides".
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