Originally posted by surver
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Paul Harnden
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Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by merzconsidering ph is a fairly literal interpretation of several precise moments in space/time, calling others out on copying the work is full of lol. just sayin. granted interesting things (can possibly) happen when the work and presentation is taken out of context. but.. ah. yeah.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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Originally posted by merzzam, maybe you have misread something in what i wrote? the issue is squarely that paul harnden cannot lay claim of ownership to the aesthetic the same way miyake could with pleats please. part of the reason being that the aesthetic in which he works stems from relatively direct interpretation of existing objects. he curates the aesthetic, and, in gaining traction, he sees others borrow influence either from him or in the vicinity of his inspiration, but they cannot legitimately be accused of copying him. Some of frank leder's or geoffrey small's work is technically quite comparable by way of patterning off of pieces that are 120-150+ years old.. dawson's as well, but thats a little closer to home.
whether these people have more or less of an attachment to the aesthetic, what drives them to implement such cues into their output - entirely different matter.Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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stop speed posting noob"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
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hahahaha, sorry!Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde
StyleZeitgeist Magazine
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and why would you? I think this is what makes PH a more expensive version of turn of the century sears or engineered garments. Pairing a rick blazer or early Raf or marginal stuff with simple pants just won't work. I don't know why Geoffrey doesn't get more love with all the ph beasting.
Originally posted by Faust View PostI don't have any difficulty pairing my PH coat with slim black trousers and a long Sarti scarf.
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are you rating designers based on how easy or difficult they are to wear..?"AVANT GUARDE HIGHEST FASHION. NOW NOW this is it people, these are the brands no one fucking knows and people are like WTF. they do everything by hand in their freaking secret basement and shit."
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Originally posted by merzstill? i thought she was no longer there, though i knew she designed there, hence closer to home. her own stuff looks, well, not interchangeable but related.
Originally posted by merztwo issues. fit (ph has recently put quite a lot of work into changing the fit of his jackets for instance, historical accuracy becomes secondary) and the fact that geoffrey's work hasn't become 'iconic' by way of being so easily-recognisable. ph uses similar approach to lapel construction in practically all of the jackets. etc.. geoffrey uses a lot of diverse historical pattern work. with some pieces, there is similarity by vector of where they draw inspiration..
Originally posted by merzben, you're right of course - he is dreaming of a past that has never existed, because his is built on anachronisms and patterns from a span of time rather than an exact moment
Originally posted by merzconsidering ph is a fairly literal interpretation of several precise moments in space/time
Originally posted by merzhe's trying to evoke the spirit of something, not make historical reproductions..and he does adjust them considerably from what i can tell. but that does not change his commodity being the nostalgia/the past/a spirit of.. when you get down to ownership, that does make things a bit tricky.
Originally posted by merzi think all of this championing has overlooked the fact that i (and i repeat this a million times) have never detracted from the quality of the man's work.
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Originally posted by merzben, you're right of course - he is dreaming of a past that has never existed, because his is built on anachronisms and patterns from a span of time rather than an exact moment, he's trying to evoke the spirit of something, not make historical reproductions..and he does adjust them considerably from what i can tell.
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Tweed blazer on, drinking some pimms...watching the young female cousin you've had a wetdream about a few times play croquet on the well groomed lawn. Your father with his rifle cocked over his shoulder fingering the african maid up against the hedge,
few pimms later making your way to the hog roast under the gazebo, the jester doing his usual antics trips by mistake and falls into you, you land awkwardly on the lawn...elbows grass stained
sticky fingered daddy "no worries son we shall have the tailor apply elbow patches on thy monday of the week commencing the week next"
PH UNIVERSE COPYRIGHT.
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Originally posted by merzits a number of pieces from over a slice of 20-30 years in the 19th century, occasionally reworked and matched together to evoke a very specific kind of nostalgia. the stuff the patterns are culled from is absolutely historical. but, okay.
I agree with Mike/BSR, his references come from his own personal reflection of the past, he isn't attempting to recreate a specific period or era. Only piece together and blur snapshots of the past, the way he sees it. I don't see the blatant copying.
Originally posted by merzharnden is fine. all i ever said was you look silly in it, and that his work has become fetishised here (much like many things before it, some of which i like..) for reasons to do with fashion at times seemingly more than style. it does not require of you to rush to PH's aid as though the man himself was being, spartacus-like, impaled upon the roman lances.
edit - marco-von the fruity-ist of pimms no doubt
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