Paul Harnden

[coccodrillo]

I wonder if this change in fit will grow on people - who will there after be desperate for this seasons "fit"

[coccodrillo]

Copacetic - would you mind posting a fit pic?Pretty please

[BSR]

@faust: i don't know, some spring fabric are nice, like the hopscotch or another kinda dark gray prince of wales cotton in SS11 which was amazing too.

@eternal: i'm lost with the cuts... the styles are "pocket" (shorter version with visible pockets going below waist), "classic" (normal length), "modern" (same length but straight lapels instead of peak ones), and "long". norfolk is a recent addition, longer than the classic and shorter than the long, right? i don't know which styles i tried, but all the jackets i tried were without back vent and really awkward.

@copacetic: does it have a back vent?

In my book the great thing with PH is that it is very poorly executed and then there is a great variation among the pieces. most of them won't fit anybody properly but there are small miracles which happen sometimes: one piece that fits good out of the rack, and only on you, because the special flaws of its execution match the special flaws of your anatomy.

[doldrums]

@BSR - the Norfolk is *not vented* and I saw some for this ss13. They are roomier and longer than the classic and in some ways a transition between classic and long.

I agree on the variation but feel it has less to do with construction or monkeys as it does the washing the garments go through. I had a heavy tweed classic from a couple years ago that when stretched had the exact same dimensions as a non tweed yet it fit a size smaller at least from the wrinkling.

Last year (or was it year before?) the unlined blazer had no vents so I wonder if its just a ss thing.

Re ss fabrics - I for one like the ventile especially when paired with the thicker lining. I'm no expert tho that's for sure.

EDIT:
Correction - Norfolk is unvented.

[eton97]

I generally agree with the overall negative view re ph ss13, but I always find i'm less interested in with the ph SS fabrics
Walked into dsm which had quiet a good selection of different pieces, and i didn't bother trying any of it on. Just didn't excite me

Bsr. Agree re finding those one off jackets from certain seasons that work for all their flaws. The aw11 tweed blazer for me, was perfection, in all aspects of the fit matching my body shape.

[jj.still]

The aw11 tweed blazer for me, was perfection, in all aspects of the fit matching my body shape.

for me too. Tried other seasons jackets and they didn't work.

[Acid, Bitter and Sad]

@BSR - the Norfolk has a singe vent and I saw some for this ss13. They are roomier and longer than the classic and in some ways a transition between classic and long.

The Mens Norfolk from AW12-13 was ventless, and a really nice piece, imo.
I liked that it was longer than the Mens Blazer, and ventless too.

There were no surprises, vent-wise, from the SS13 collection that I saw at IF, what's left of it anyway. I didn't see the Norfolk though.

Will be in Tokyo next week, will report if there are further anomalies....

[Faust]

re: wack fitting - its probably Harnden's idea of forcing people to go to stores ;)
Yes, BSR, forgot the hopscotch! How could I, it started the whole craze, lol.

[MikeN]

Hold up, let's first determine exactly what we're talking about here. BSR: you're saying that the LONG BLAZER (using actual Harnden-issued item names in capital letters) no longer is vented? That's the 5 button blazer. I've tried on basically everything from SS'13 and every piece had a vent exactly where it was supposed to.

The only piece that I agree fit awkwardly this season was the linen POCKET BLAZER. The two linen colors available are "Moss" and "Black." I tried S, M, L, and all basically "fit", but each one awkward in it's own special way. The non-linen versions fit normally. The MEN'S BLAZERs that I've tried have all fit normally too.

I just today bought a UNLINED BLAZER (which is always unvented) in "Moss" and the fit is totally spot on, and matches my "Black 1" unlined blazer from 2 years ago.

[Fuuma]

Nice pyjamas and cropped straight trousers (light version of the winter ones) though. But in sum:

!!!!!!

[cjbreed]

Hold up, let's first determine exactly what we're talking about here. BSR: you're saying that the LONG BLAZER (using actual Harnden-issued item names in capital letters) no longer is vented? That's the 5 button blazer. I've tried on basically everything from SS'13 and every piece had a vent exactly where it was supposed to.

The only piece that I agree fit awkwardly this season was the linen POCKET BLAZER. The two linen colors available are "Moss" and "Black." I tried S, M, L, and all basically "fit", but each one awkward in it's own special way. The non-linen versions fit normally. The MEN'S BLAZERs that I've tried have all fit normally too.

I just today bought a UNLINED BLAZER (which is always unvented) in "Moss" and the fit is totally spot on, and matches my "Black 1" unlined blazer from 2 years ago.

i eventually got that unlined black 1 blazer and its the best spring/summer blazer i've come across. i'd be keen on getting the moss one too if anyone knows where an xxl might be.

mike (or someone) - i'm not a harnden expert but i keep hearing "new blazer" and "classic blazer" used and now also "modern blazer". whats the difference?

[MikeN]

mike (or someone) - i'm not a harnden expert but i keep hearing "new blazer" and "classic blazer" used and now also "modern blazer". whats the difference?

The only one of those that is an actual name of a jacket is the NEW BLAZER. When people refer to the "classic blazer" it's safe to assume they are actually talking about the MEN'S BLAZER. I've never heard of the "modern blazer" either so not sure what that is.

NEW BLAZER is single vented, with very high lapels. I personally love this cut, but I wouldn't be surprised if some people weren't into it because it doesn't show off the Harnden leather button-backs.

[cjbreed]

ahh ok. thanks mike.

[surver]

sounds like the PH 'craze' is dwindling down...

[Fuuma]

@faust: i don't know, some spring fabric are nice, like the hopscotch or another kinda dark gray prince of wales cotton in SS11 which was amazing too.

@eternal: i'm lost with the cuts... the styles are "pocket" (shorter version with visible pockets going below waist), "classic" (normal length), "modern" (same length but straight lapels instead of peak ones), and "long". norfolk is a recent addition, longer than the classic and shorter than the long, right? i don't know which styles i tried, but all the jackets i tried were without back vent and really awkward.

@copacetic: does it have a back vent?

In my book the great thing with PH is that it is very poorly executed and then there is a great variation among the pieces. most of them won't fit anybody properly but there are small miracles which happen sometimes: one piece that fits good out of the rack, and only on you, because the special flaws of its execution match the special flaws of your anatomy.

Indeed, a morphological connection, authenticity through bodies extended in space.

You need to learn a few terms though, wtf is a "straight lapel", is it a shawl lapel (col châle) or a notched/pointed lapel (revers crantés)?