Lumen Et Umbra

[michael_kard]

Well why don't we wait and draw conclusions by looking at the actual collection?

[Faust]

It will be very different from what Devoa is doing. Also, this (at this point) is a one season concept, not a perpetual design element.

[fashiondisaster]

It will be very different from what Devoa is doing. Also, this (at this point) is a one season concept, not a perpetual design element.

I totaly agree...my only concern and also curiosity is becasue for this season Lumen has made this choise...but sure when i will see the collection..i wiil understand it... ( maybe :-) ..in the sense of self-ironic)..

FD.

[fashiondisaster]

I have seen a little preview of FW 12 collection into Parable website...
Nice collection and nice video...
but please...can anyone explain me the connection of collection to the video???
TNX

[Faust]

The concept was to recreate elements of anatomy into garments, to put them on the surface. It's mostly done with techniques like felting and darting rather than stitching Devoa does.

[fashiondisaster]

Tnx for explanation...
I also thought something like this ...
Honestly, i see the photos on the website of the Parable, and i can not see much this connection .... but i also think that to better understand, i must see the entire collection.
Anyway, congratulations.

FD

[Faust]

/\ are you sure you are looking at FW12?

[Chinorlz]

I believe those on Parable are the right ones. The textures of the shirts are really lovely. The way the boiled material crumples and generates that texture is quite nice.

From the model shots though, it's a bit hard for me to see where the teaser video and the final product intersect. There is some interesting patternwork on the leather jacket with utilization of differently textured (and possibly weight) leathers for different panels but I was hoping for something that would blow my mind based on the complexity of the graphics and the neural/spinal inspiration.

To me LeU's strongest suit at least for the last couple of collections have been their fabrics. It's a great brand to pull "basics" from that have the raw edges or thin finished ones done in materials that have some lovely depth to them.

[fashiondisaster]

I believe those on Parable are the right ones. I was hoping for something that would blow my mind based on the complexity of the graphics and the neural/spinal inspiration.

Yes I also looking for this....

[Faust]

Just wanted to let you guys know that Lumen et Umbra is now stocked at Patron of the New in New York. Glad to see an NYC stockist.

[zamb]

Yeahhh!!!!!!

I have been meaning to go check out this store, now its even more reason to go
I really like what LeU is doing
interesting pattern work, really nice fabrications and good prices...........

[surver]

Symposium – The Samurai & The Warrior | Lumen et Umbra vs. Boris Bidjan Saberi

Symposium – The Samurai & The Warrior | Lumen et Umbra vs. Boris Bidjan Saberi





The University of Bologna‘s pioneering approach to fashion led Fabriano Fabbri, President of the Second Level Fashion Degree, to organize a symposioum, helded on the 2nd of April at the Rimini based ZoneModa space. The event hosted a debate between two radical and unconventional designers: Boris Bidjan Saberi and Issei Fujita from Lumen et Umbra. Allegorically viewed as the fighters of the fashion’s common senses, Boris and Issei explained their very own creative languages that separate their works from the oppressive traditional dynamics of designing, production and sale. The connection with the contemporary reality doesn’t disappear, but is explored through unusual ways, which often are a direct expression of the designer’s individual feelings, just his curious desire of experimentation without any immediate purpose, and thought secondly for the public. There’s the desire to beat the time flow through very slow artisianal techniques, which survive at the main stream’s seasonal politics. Issei, locked in his silence, let digital videos talk about his work, deliberately non-figurative, which revealed the Lumen et Umbra‘s attempt to go into the the textures of fabrics, in order to extract their inner energy an understand their secret algorithm. So Fujita approach to clothes could be seen as an endogenous process of deconstruction that tear apart and reassemble the garments, like they were digital images, made up of millions of decomposable pixels. Boris, instead, told us how his vocation for design has always been drived by an instinctive desire of play with shapes and materials, inspired by his ideological and cultural mix. Post-apocalyptic scenes of a broken reality are reflected into the heavily altered garments, which portrait Saberi‘s harsh worldview. And if Lumen et Umbra’s treatments evoke a sort of meditative and ancestral power through the ancient art of craftsmanship processes, Boris’ aesthetic features a strong technologic and artificial appeal that elicit immediately an emotional reaction from the viewer. They both reach the final result through an endless dialogue between their own actions and the object, which responds in unexpected ways, innervated by a new energy that can never be fully controllable. So the concept of “fashion”, broadly speaking, has no meaning applied to their creations, and is replaced by a series of naked garments: living and usable metaphors of intimate thoughts.


Photography: Ilaria Picardi e Celeste Priore


(from http://leparadox.com/symposium-the-s...bidjan-saberi/)

[surver]

[hurricane08]

Lumen et umbra AW 13

[MechaStreisand]

Lumen et umbra AW 13

Thank you for the video. I always enjoy watching the process of shoe making.

There are some photos of the new collection on their website as well. Here are the ones that show the cloths well.











More photos can be found here:

http://www.lumenetumbra.biz/?u=http://lumenaw13.tumblr.com/