Plokhov to Versace

[rach2jlc]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

[quote user="Faust"][


No doubt, we will give them the benefit :-). I agree, it wouldn't make sense for them to hire Alex as a mascot - he is not a strong name (despite his prominence, Cloak was never more than a niche label). We'll hope for the best, naturally!

[/quote]

I always knew there was a part of you that longed for a rococo-print shirt with the first five buttons undone, Faust, and a pair of white jeans so tight you couldn't even put a credit card in the back pocket. It just took a while for it to come out. ;) j/k

As we've all said everytime news like this is released, the proof is in the pudding. But, I think we can extrapolate on the possible end, given the info we have. Raf at Jil? We thought it would be probably good...and more or less it was (even though I don't like the silhouette). Habitual jeans people at the Lang "lifestyle brand"... probably not. Caten twins at Celine? Luckily it never happened so we'll never know.

With this Versace move, it gives me hope given that they've chosen somebody who, as you mention, isn't really a strong name.

[Fuuma]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

[quote user="Faust"]

[quote user="sbw4224"]He's probably making more money now for far less work than he did at Cloak. It's bad for us, but probably good for him. Maybe he can save up now and start up another line in a few years.
[/quote]

That's true.

As far as Versace and its place in fashion, maybe it was there in the 80's, but that is long forgotten - just like the era of Ferre and more recently Dolce & Gabbana - all they do now is put out eurotrash-wear. Romeo Gigli was the only one in my opinion who walked the fine line between sophistication and gigoloism...

[/quote]

I'm not going to argue with you as I feel Milan is becoming less relevant season after season. But this is why actions such as this one intrigue and motivate me, it might be the start of something new. I feel that (mainstream runway) fashion has been dominated by Paris for a while and that causes design houses to be complacent and all too similar, a swing of the pendulum towards Milan could make things interesting.

[Faust]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

[quote user="Fuuma"][quote user="Faust"]

[quote user="sbw4224"]He's probably making more money now for far less work than he did at Cloak. It's bad for us, but probably good for him. Maybe he can save up now and start up another line in a few years.
[/quote]

That's true.

As far as Versace and its place in fashion, maybe it was there in the 80's, but that is long forgotten - just like the era of Ferre and more recently Dolce & Gabbana - all they do now is put out eurotrash-wear. Romeo Gigli was the only one in my opinion who walked the fine line between sophistication and gigoloism...

[/quote]

I'm not going to argue with you as I feel Milan is becoming less relevant season after season. But this is why actions such as this one intrigue and motivate me, it might be the start of something new. I feel that (mainstream runway) fashion has been dominated by Paris for a while and that causes design houses to be complacent and all too similar, a swing of the pendulum towards Milan could make things interesting.

[/quote]

That's true, I'm all for interesting ideas coming out from different places. BTW, do you remember in an article I posted about Milan fashion week, Capasa of CN was complaining that Italy has a really suffocating environment for the new talent - maybe that's where the problem is. I mean, if guys like Poell and Rick Owens practically live in Italy because it has good production facilities, I can't believe that there is no talent locally. I understand that artistic talent comes partially out of one's mind, but the other part has to be grounded in production technique.

[nambla]

Re: Plokhov to Versace



Does anybody know how old Alexandr Plokhov is?

[laika]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

nambla, he is 40.

[casem]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

This is just too bizarre, I don't know what to say. Does this mean I'll actually have to walk into a Versace store in a few seasons to see what Plokhov is up to?

[Running om Empty]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

Consultant is probably the most nebulous term in employment. If one poorly sewn leather button makes it on to a Versace piece then Plokhov did too much. Its probably a move to pander funds/ buyers for another line. Or maybe he just needs to pay the bills.

[Faust]

Re: Plokhov to Versace



[quote user="Running om Empty"]Consultant is probably the most nebulous term in employment. If one poorly sewn leather button makes it on to a Versace piece then Plokhov did too much. Its probably a move to pander funds/ buyers for another line. Or maybe he just needs to pay the bills.
[/quote]

Who wouldn't want an easy job with a nice paycheck?

[rach2jlc]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

Exactly, Faust. I don't see how this could HURT him; not only will it bring in a paycheck, it will get his name out there in ways that CLOAK just wasn't able to do. As they say, no publicity is bad publicity. If the collection turns out brilliantly, I'm sure he'll try and take advantage of it; if it turns out badly, everybody will blame Versace anyway.:)

[Incroyable]

Re: Plokhov to Versace



Gianni Versace echoed my own little quoter down there, Dame Edith Sitwell, about Good Taste being a Vice.

While I do feel that the ex-Cloak designer is an odd choice for such an extroverted label as Versace, perhaps it'll bring a modicum of direction for the firm.

I used to love the unabashed extravagance of Gianni Versace Couture, certainly the most appropriate thing to wear in these times of War, no? Lately, it's just been unabashed mediocrity.

[Faust]

Re: Plokhov to Versace



So, Donatella is in town in 6 days. I am assembling a strike team. We will storm Barneys, kidnap D, and replace her with a blow-up doll - noone will notice the difference. We can than demand.

a) 100 mil. dollars

b) they free Plokhov to do his own thing and not these shiny abominations.

c) they hire Tom Ford so we can stop experiencing cognitive dissonance.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Versace Men?s Set for Retail Return

BY COURTNEY COLAVITA

Feb. 11, 2008

MILAN ? The Versace man is ready to march in lockstep with the Versace woman.



Versace?s men?s runway line?after a false start and seasons of
tweaking?is set to return to the U.S. retail market this month when the
spring collection makes its debut at Barneys New York.



The top collection?which marks Alexandre Plokhov?s first collaboration
with the Italian fashion house?will bow exclusively at Barneys? stores
in Manhattan, Beverly Hills and San Francisco, as well as in its latest
unit at the Palazzo in Las Vegas.



?It?s a great marriage,? said Patrick Guadagno, COO and president of
Versace USA wholesale. ?Barneys has a strong history and heritage with
Versace men?s from the first time around ... and [its management] was
excited to bring back the new Versace.?



The collection, which features graphic details and slim cuts, will sell on the third floor of the Madison Avenue flagship.



?This is a poignant moment in that there?s a lot of change at the house
of Versace, certainly in terms of what its men?s wear stands for
today,? said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice-president and GMM of men?s
for Barneys New York. ?This was a great time to reintroduce the brand.?



To celebrate the launch, Donatella Versace will swing into town for an
in-store cocktail on March 18. Following the party, Barneys chief
executive Howard Socol will host a private dinner. Furthermore, Barneys
will dedicate its Madison Avenue windows to the Versace men?s and
women?s collections.

?The Barneys team is made of such astute merchants,? Guadagno said. ?We
feel we can successfully work with them in developing the business in
an exclusive way.?



The deal with Barneys is as much a milestone for the men?s
collection?which until recently lacked consistency?as it is for the
house of Versace.



Since 2004, Versace has been in the throes of a major restructuring
plan. Initially the focus fell on Versace?s core business of women?s
wear, which today retails in tony department stores like Barneys and
Bergdorf Goodman, as well as in top specialty stores, including Jeffrey
in New York and Maxfield in Los Angeles.



After successfully setting women?s as well as accessories on the
correct luxury course, management turned its attention to men?s. First
came the relaunch of Versace Collection for spring 2006.



Since its introduction the secondary line has excelled under Guadagno?s
supervision. Versace Collection, which is sold in 15 Saks Fifth Avenue
doors as well as in top specialty retailers like Syd Jerome in Chicago,
has become a leader in the category, praised for its fits and value.

Yet even with the triumphs of women?s, accessories and Versace
Collection, the men?s runway line proved problematic. It sold for a
couple of seasons in select Saks and Neiman Marcus doors but never took
off like its women?s counterpart.



Things began to change last season, however, when Versace tapped
Plokhov as a design consultant. The Russian-born designer?s steely
tailoring has gelled well with Donatella?s vision. Furthermore,
Donatella has sought to elevate the luxury quotient of men?s and put it
on par with women?s.



Ultra-luxurious fabrications and what Kalenderian described as
?idiosyncratic details? drew Barneys back to the collection after a
15-year hiatus. ?Versace has done an excellent job in bringing the
men?s wear up to the level of women?s,? Kalenderian said.



And although the Versace/Plokhov relationship is still in its nascent
stages, the two designers appear to be getting on well. During the fall
Milan collections last month, Donatella affectionately called Plokhov
?Alexandre Versace.?



?Clearly now the Versace man has a modern sensibility,? Guadagno said.
?The collection is a little cleaner, less embellishment, still sexy but
not overtly sexy.?



Versace?s newfound point of view found its face in Patrick Dempsey. The
star of Grey?s Anatomy appears in Versace?s current spring campaign,
shot by Mario Testino. He?s on board for the next two seasons as well
and is expected to attend the Barneys cocktail party next month.

?We feel we really identified the right Versace man in Patrick Dempsey,? Guadagno said. ?Guys can relate to him.?



The men?s push extends past the U.S. as well. As Versace chief
executive officer Giancarlo Di Risio recently said, this is the year
for men?s. ?After consolidating women?s and accessories we are now
concentrating on men?s,? Di Risio said. ?The first-line men?s
collection now mirrors the women?s collection. There?s equilibrium.?



Men?s wear currently generates around 35 percent of revenue and Di
Risio said the goal over the next few years is to bring men?s to around
45 percent of total sales.



Versace has not yet released 2007 figures. However, Di Risio told DNR
that the family-controlled company would surpass the 300 million euros
mark, or $411 million at average rates, and in doing so recoup losses
incurred in 2006 after phasing out several lines.



In a bid to support the men?s drive, Di Risio said, the company was
investing ?significantly? more in men?s advertising this year, but
declined to give a percentage increase.



?The year is off to a good start,? Di Risio said, adding that sales for the fall 2008 men?s collection were up 20 percent.



?This year is the beginning of the change [in men?s wear] and that?s
why we want to keep distribution tight, have a strong partner, learn
from them and grow with them,? Guadagno added. ?We are committed to
making this category work.?

[casem]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

Sounds like a great plan Faust. I've especially been missing Cloak recently with all the great stuff coming up on the classifieds. I little piece of me dies every time I see Patrick Dempsey on the back of a magazine wearing a Plokhov cut suit in shiny Italian fabric.

[xadam]

Re: Plokhov to Versace

What about covertly moving Versace to the fifth floor and moving Junya down to the third? With like three or four of us, we could do it pretty quickly.

[Faust]

Re: Plokhov to Versace



[quote user="xadam"]What about covertly moving Versace to the fifth floor and moving Junya down to the third? With like three or four of us, we could do it pretty quickly.
[/quote]

Ahh, that's my long-standing plan! Band of outsiders to the fifth, Junya to the third.

[gerry]

Re: Plokhov to Versace



Dare I say it? I actually liked the last Versace womenswear show... While admittedly there were parts of it that were still slightly too sexed up for my taste, the first thing I thought of when I saw it was, "Hey. Is Plokhov actually influencing the Versaces?" You could argue that the general feel of fashion seems to be headed towards some sort of sombre elegance but I would prefer to see things in this way.

Admittedly, it can be hard to respect a woman who looks like this.

But you must admit that it is a good departure from this.