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Hedi Slimante to YSL (?)

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  • vapidly
    Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 53

    #31
    Not at all. I suppose it wasn't very clear, but what i was getting at was his earlier designs wouldn't fit in this decade. I'm not saying that he can't make relevant clothing now, but I feel a lot of his allure is directly related to his earlier days at dior, which, maybe a lot of people would like to see again.
    For instance, Rick Owens has a very defined aesthetic, but his collections are constantly building on his previous years, which creates a wonderful, constantly progressing body of work.
    Bringing Slimane to any large house with mild-great success would disrupt their aesthetic.

    I feel a bit derlious right now. I know I haven't clarified myself very well, but I hope I will be able to later tonight. I must be off!

    Comment

    • michael_kard
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2010
      • 2152

      #32
      Originally posted by vapidly View Post
      KVA has been doing a better job defining DH with every season and I feel like the collections are just starting to move DH into the next stage of its development.
      Allow me to use images to convey my diametrical opposition to this statement:







      There's at least 35987 more printed t-shirts out there, all WTF-worthy. I strongly believe KVA does a generally bad job.
      ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
      Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

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      • vapidly
        Member
        • Dec 2007
        • 53

        #33
        KVAs first few seasons were shit, I agree, but I am talking about a progression and it is apparent that he has moved away from that position. Hedi Slimane also had his share of printed shirts as well, albeit most had a tad more taste than KVA, but those are pieces that either designer makes to sell towards those who can't afford pieces from a collection, but still want to be apart of the brand identity. Those pieces you have selected don't really speak much of KVA design work as much as it speaks of LVMH and those are obviously not runway highlights.

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        • neonrider
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2008
          • 150

          #34
          i don't know. have you (or anyone else here) actually bought anything from kva-era that wasn't just a carried over design? if you have bought it, do you actually (enjoy it when you) wear it? for me, the answer's no on both counts.

          leaving aside the "cultural" aspects, i do think there is a sense of sharpness, detail, and proportion slimane (and plokhov) brought that's missing in today's landscape. i suspect i'm not the only one that thinks so.
          ""assuming the economy doesn't force us to eat the rich and object-tan their hides" -- merz

          Comment

          • vapidly
            Member
            • Dec 2007
            • 53

            #35
            While I have not purchased anything during the KVA era, I have handled some of the pieces at jeffrey and atelier. Specifically the pieces I handled at atelier I was rather surprised when I saw they were dh.
            I do see kva, especially in the first two seasons, relying heavily on what slimane did, and rather poorly at that.
            The latest FW, which i rather enjoyed, definitely has elements of early slimane, but there are also many other elements going on and worked very well with the collection as a whole. There are actually pieces in this collection that I would be interested in handling and perhaps even buying.

            Comment

            • ES3K
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2008
              • 530

              #36
              Originally posted by michael_kard View Post
              (...)There's at least 35987 more printed t-shirts out there, all WTF-worthy. I strongly believe KVA does a generally bad job.
              Whatever your opinion on KVAs talent is, this is not really a proof -- t-shirts, sweatshirts etc with senseless slogans and denim I would never wear was already around when Hedi was at the helm.

              Comment

              • michael_kard
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2010
                • 2152

                #37
                I personally love t-shirts with prints in general when I'm in a jeans/sneakers/t-shirt mood. As such I can appreciate a print that has some sort of meaning, makes an interesting point or is plain beautiful. KVA designed the worst type of prints; the wannabe campy/glamorous one. Hedi's t-shirts were fine, because they were not necessarily created for attention-seeking douchebags like the one above. I mean, it's worse than D&G.
                ENDYMA / Archival fashion & Consignment
                Helmut Lang 1986-2005 | Ann Demeulemeester | Raf Simons | Burberry Prorsum | and more...

                Comment

                • vapidly
                  Member
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 53

                  #38
                  oh please hedi slimane had his share of lame ass t-shirts as well. they are t-shirts like i discussed above. They really aren't meant to make or break a collection. I'm not familiar with any kva/slimane for dior ad campaigns that featured t-shirts, lame ass print or attention whoring words. I think that anyone is an idiot to buy a cotton t-shirt with a screen print on it for 200$, i don't care who designed it, that is, unless it is an extremely limited run. The point is, KVA and his last two runway shows have been great and has shown progression. Give him credit for having to fill some very large shoes. Its not DH in its glory days, but it's improved considerably since KVA's first collection for DH.

                  Comment

                  • gnow
                    Senior Member
                    • Jun 2010
                    • 341

                    #39
                    don't know where I should post this, so just gonna post it here. Decent read.

                    Hedi Slimane has transformed menswear and been lauded for his photography. But that's just the start for rock'n'roll's favourite designer

                    Comment

                    • ironman
                      Senior Member
                      • Apr 2008
                      • 829

                      #40
                      i enjoyed that, thanks for sharing gnow!

                      found it funny how they hyperlinked wikipedia in the 2nd paragraph lol

                      Comment

                      • gnow
                        Senior Member
                        • Jun 2010
                        • 341

                        #41
                        Originally posted by lost53
                        I would also like to thank-you for sharing this, just quickly skim read it...
                        I walked for Hedi a few years back, wish I could turn back the clock!!!
                        skimming through it won't do! It's really one of the better interviews I've read so far. its also nice to know what Hedi's been up to.

                        Comment

                        • Faust
                          kitsch killer
                          • Sep 2006
                          • 37849

                          #42
                          Originally posted by gnow View Post
                          don't know where I should post this, so just gonna post it here. Decent read.

                          http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandsty...her?CMP=twt_gu
                          Yeah, was gonna post it, but did not like the article at all.

                          Anyway, the huge book of his photography is coming out this months. $300 though...
                          Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months - Oscar Wilde

                          StyleZeitgeist Magazine

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