Sara Lanzi (ex. CDiem) - FW07/08

[Chinorlz]

this seems like a pretty big departure from what we've seen from her at least earlier on in the thread. She's ignoring the human form in these shots... That both takes the challenge and the wearability out of a lot of the clothes. The details are nice but if you wouldn't even want to wear it out of the house then everything becomes essentially moot.

[kira]

Saw some of the really simple women's pieces today at DSM and i was not too keen. I really enjoyed some of the pieces from the last season even though the sizing was way off. But most of these were very blah. was disappointed.

[reborn]

It's amazing how everyone is getting into menswear. So, this looks pretty crappy, I think...

/\ agreed.

I am all for quirky volume and detail, but you guys are right. Coming from cdiem, my expectations for SL pieces are high...Does she deliver in quality of construction?

[J_J]

Here's the interview from sept Vogue:

(translated from italian, forgive any grammatical/syntax weirdness)

WHO IS ON NEXT? THE WINNERS 2007
Sara Lanzi's calm determination, strengthened by a creative force that you can experience garment by garment, has won over the jury from "who is on next" 2007 for Pret a porter. She has gotten involved with fashion purely by chance, and she embraces it with a discerning attitude and an ethical approach.

It's as if she dances on a spiderweb, ready to pull whatever is lurking in the shadows to use in her collections.
After a degree in contemporary art history and industry experience, in 1994 she decides to go down her own path. A stimulating project absorbs her completely, where every phase is attentively followed through. there are certain misleading factors and steps that represent, however, the sum (as acknowledged by her) of her concrete concept about fashion as an applied art and a mirror of contemporary reality. It is, however, not without its calming moments, like going over her mother's sketches and a solitary road trip to Paris, where she presentx her collection.

her participation in the challenge has aided the encounter with the working world, previously unknown to her, and it has recognized her creativity, but it has not changed the standards that she has imposed on herself. Her garment's "spirit", that defining them as minimalist would be limiting, moves between spectacular -and functional- extremes, possesing an unmistakable style as the common theme. It consists of a hidden sensuality, almost masculine.

Many influences but no direct references, even though she is very intrigued by the Japanese idea of femininity, strong but discreet. A basic language emphazised by textures that have character and substance, small structures, where the abstraction of non-color is the raw material that reveals the shape. The message is strongly symbolic, a kind of chiaroscuro that expresses tension and dynamism. "If an existence in black and white is a synonym of rigor and essentialism then I hope I can share this value".

But because there is always 2 sides to a coin, there is also the unexpected, more impulsive side, one that contrasts elements and includes color. In the "Who is on next" collection, pieces from last winters' collection are mixed with summer garments, giving us a forgotten "mid-season" and the casual overlapping that usually comes out of our wardrobes. It is this way that velvet and striped felted mohair are mixed with twill, tweed and stretch ribbed wools in a "off-black" palette. Volume is amped up on pants and skirts.
A fun twist is forseen in her AW 08/09 collection, where an Alice in Wonderland is catapulted into college, wearing silk taffeta and scottish shetland wool, where greys and blacks limit the overflow of fuchsia and cobalt blue.
A goal for the future? simply to be successful in what she's doing.

[jcotteri]

thanks j_j i think it would be a good translation.

[snafu]

Still loving Sara's work, glad to see perugia is still alive.
IMO such a talent... its why i never stop buying pieces for the gf...

http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/04/23/on-the-verge-a-discreetly-charming-womens-wear-line-from-perugia/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0

[Faust]

Though those two dresses are the most terrible examples of her work.

[snafu]

sorry its not black E... obviously you have seen them in person.

[Faust]

sorry its not black E... obviously you have seen them in person.

Not these particular ones - I have seen the CdG flagship buy. I'm sure these days you want to look like someone out of a J.Crew catalogue.

[laika]

the look on the right is a skirt and top.
you can see the items a bit better at la garconne
i do wish they had bought the red/ecru colorway as well. It's all very lovely though--the fabrics look gorgeous!-- and actually reminds me (aesthetically) of some CdG collections in the early 90's.

thanks for the bump, snaf. would love to see your gf wearing ms. lanzi!

[snafu]

well you just did Laika... ;)

I personally would wear her stuff if i were female; i guess im not bothered about colours, i don't think they are too j-crewish.
I like Sara's playfulness like the beautiful knits she did i think two seasons ago which were mohair. I think she hits the right balance between femininity and and hint of masculinity it never feels very obvious.

I'l try post some more pics soon...

[laika]

well you just did Laika... ;)

gorgeous!

i hope there will be more.