I absolutely love this collection. Last season had a similar excess of fabrics, but I think it works even better here within the framework of tailoring - controlled explosions that really pull you in for a closer look.
I think it's interesting to consider this collection in comparison to FW12, and the thread on Digital Representation (and 525252's amazing post), because if that collection could be seen as a reaction to fashion and the fashioned body as a two dimensional entity, here she again approaches that idea, but from a different direction.
The front row was drawn in as close as possible to really see the clothes, and the clothes themselves are clearly impossible to be understood through front or back photographs alone - they defy that neat presentation that so many are used to when consuming fashion imagery. Tailoring is so much about presenting a clean, sanitised body, that here the excess forces you to reconsider the relationship between body and cloth.
The whole collection seemed to me to be like a wake-up call to the fashion world (rather like Yohji this season) to actually look at the garments and think about the garments, rather than just the image.
I think it's interesting to consider this collection in comparison to FW12, and the thread on Digital Representation (and 525252's amazing post), because if that collection could be seen as a reaction to fashion and the fashioned body as a two dimensional entity, here she again approaches that idea, but from a different direction.
The front row was drawn in as close as possible to really see the clothes, and the clothes themselves are clearly impossible to be understood through front or back photographs alone - they defy that neat presentation that so many are used to when consuming fashion imagery. Tailoring is so much about presenting a clean, sanitised body, that here the excess forces you to reconsider the relationship between body and cloth.
The whole collection seemed to me to be like a wake-up call to the fashion world (rather like Yohji this season) to actually look at the garments and think about the garments, rather than just the image.
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